False Network Corydoras

Quick Summary

The False Network Corydoras is a peaceful, bottom-dwelling catfish that thrives in groups of six or more on soft substrate. It is a hardy and rewarding species suitable for community aquariums, though its slightly larger adult size compared to typical Corydoras means it benefits from a roomier tank.

🐠 Build a tank around this species

In this guide:

• Introduction
• Quick Stats
• Appearance
• Natural Habitat
• Tank Size and Setup
• Water Parameters
• Diet and Feeding
• Behaviour and Temperament
• Tank Mates
• Breeding

Introduction

Brochis sodalis, commonly known as the False Network Corydoras, is a charming armoured catfish native to the upper Amazon basin in South America. It belongs to the genus Brochis, which remains the valid taxonomic placement as of the 2024 revision, distinguishing it from the closely related but separate genus Corydoras. While the two genera share a broadly similar body plan and lifestyle, Brochis species tend to be somewhat larger and more robustly built, with a higher dorsal fin ray count.

The common name “False Network” refers to the species’ superficial resemblance to the reticulated or net-like patterning seen on certain true Network Corydoras species. It is important to note that this is purely a naming convention based on visual similarity – the two groups are not especially close taxonomically. The False Network Corydoras has its own distinct pattern and colouration, which can easily be appreciated once the fish is observed alongside its supposed lookalike.

In the home aquarium, Brochis sodalis is a thoroughly agreeable species. It is sociable, peaceful, and industrious, spending much of its time sifting through the substrate in search of food. Like all members of Brochis and Corydoras, it is best kept in groups and requires a soft, non-abrasive substrate to protect its delicate barbels. Provided these basic needs are met, the False Network Corydoras is a straightforward fish to keep and an excellent choice for community tanks.

Appearance

Brochis sodalis is a compact, stocky catfish with the characteristic armoured plating shared by all callichthyid species. Its body is deep and somewhat laterally compressed compared to many Corydoras, giving it a rounded, almost shield-like profile when viewed from the side. Adults typically reach between 6 and 7 centimetres in total length, making them slightly larger than many of the more commonly kept Corydoras species, though not as bulky as their close relative Brochis splendens (the Emerald Catfish).

The base colouration is a warm olive to brownish-green on the dorsal surface, transitioning to a lighter, creamy or pale yellow tone on the ventral side. The flanks display a series of darker spots and markings that can, under certain lighting conditions, give the impression of a loose network or reticulated pattern – hence the common name. These markings are not as tightly defined or geometrically regular as those seen on certain true Network Corydoras species, and experienced hobbyists can usually distinguish the two at a glance. The head is adorned with small dark spots, and the operculum often shows a faint metallic green sheen.

The dorsal fin is relatively tall and contains a higher number of soft rays than is typical of Corydoras – this is one of the key anatomical features that separates the genus Brochis. The pectoral fins bear stiff, serrated spines, as is common throughout the family. The caudal fin is slightly forked and translucent with faint dusky markings. The barbels are well-developed and sensitive, used constantly in foraging behaviour. In healthy specimens, the barbels should be intact and fully extended; erosion or shortening of the barbels is a telltale sign of substrate-related damage or poor water quality.

Sexual dimorphism is subtle. Mature females tend to be slightly rounder and broader when viewed from above, particularly when carrying eggs. Males are generally a touch slimmer and may have marginally larger pectoral fins, though these differences can be difficult to discern outside of spawning condition.

Natural Habitat

The False Network Corydoras is found in the upper Amazon basin, primarily in river systems across Peru and western Brazil. It inhabits slow-moving tributaries, flooded forest floors, and shallow marginal zones where leaf litter, fallen branches, and fine sediment accumulate. These habitats are characterised by warm, soft, and slightly acidic water, with tannin staining from decomposing organic matter often giving the water a tea-brown tint.

In the wild, Brochis sodalis is typically encountered in groups, often mixed with other callichthyid species. The fish spend their time rooting through the fine sandy or muddy substrate for insect larvae, worms, crustaceans, and organic detritus. The canopy cover of the surrounding forest means that light levels at the riverbed are relatively low, and the fish are most active during dawn, dusk, and overcast periods.

Understanding these natural conditions is helpful when designing an aquarium for this species. The preference for soft substrate, dim lighting, and the company of conspecifics are all behaviours rooted in the species’ wild ecology. Replicating even a rough approximation of these conditions will result in more natural behaviour and better long-term health.

Tank Size and Setup

A minimum tank size of 120 litres is recommended for a group of six False Network Corydoras. While the species is not an especially active swimmer in the horizontal sense, it is a social fish that requires adequate floor space for foraging and group interaction. Longer tanks are preferable to taller ones, as these catfish are predominantly bottom-dwellers. A tank with a footprint of at least 80 x 35 cm is a sensible starting point for a small group; if you plan to keep a larger shoal or house them alongside other bottom-dwelling species, increase the footprint accordingly.

Substrate choice is critically important for this species. Sand – either fine silica sand or a purpose-made aquarium sand – is the ideal choice. Brochis sodalis spends a great deal of time rooting through the substrate with its barbels, and coarse gravel or sharp-edged substrates will damage these sensitive organs over time. Worn barbels are one of the most common welfare issues seen in captive Corydoras and Brochis, and in virtually every case the cause is inappropriate substrate. If you must use gravel, choose only smooth, rounded grains no larger than 2-3 mm in diameter, though sand is always the superior option.

Decor should provide both open foraging areas and plenty of cover. Driftwood, smooth rocks, and leaf litter (such as dried Indian almond leaves or oak leaves) create a naturalistic environment and offer the fish places to rest and hide. Dense planting along the back and sides of the tank is beneficial, but leave a generous open area of substrate at the front and centre for the group to forage freely. Floating plants are an excellent addition, as they diffuse overhead light and mimic the shaded conditions found in the species’ natural habitat.

Lighting should be moderate to subdued. Brochis sodalis is not a shy species by any means, but overly bright illumination can make the fish less active and more inclined to hide. If your tank uses bright LED lighting for plant growth, floating plants or strategically placed tall background plants will help create shaded zones at the substrate level.

A tight-fitting lid or cover glass is recommended. Like other callichthyids, Brochis sodalis is a facultative air-breather, periodically dashing to the surface to gulp atmospheric air. While this is perfectly normal behaviour, it does mean the fish may occasionally leap, and a secure lid prevents accidents.

Water Parameters

The False Network Corydoras is adaptable across a reasonable range of freshwater conditions, but it does best in soft to moderately hard, slightly acidic to neutral water. Stability is more important than hitting an exact number; sudden swings in temperature, pH, or hardness are far more harmful than a reading that sits slightly outside the ideal range.

Regular partial water changes of 20-30% per week are essential for maintaining good water quality. Brochis sodalis, like all callichthyids, is sensitive to elevated nitrate levels and will become lethargic, lose colour, and become more susceptible to disease if nitrates are allowed to climb. Ammonia and nitrite must always remain at zero in a properly cycled aquarium. If you notice your fish gasping at the surface more frequently than usual or displaying clamped fins, test your water parameters immediately.

The species shows a slight preference for softer, more acidic conditions, particularly during breeding. In a general community setting, a pH around 6.5-7.0 and a GH of 4-10 dGH will suit the majority of individuals perfectly well. Adding botanical elements such as Indian almond leaves or driftwood can help naturally soften the water and release beneficial tannins.

Filtration and Equipment

Good filtration is essential for any aquarium housing Brochis sodalis, but the emphasis should be on biological filtration and gentle flow rather than sheer turnover. A quality hang-on-back filter or a canister filter rated for the tank volume will handle the biological load comfortably. Internal sponge filters are also an excellent option, particularly in breeding setups, as they provide ample biological filtration without generating excessive current or posing a risk to eggs and fry.

Flow rate should be moderate. In the wild, the False Network Corydoras inhabits slow-moving or near-still water, and overly strong currents at substrate level will stress the fish and discourage normal foraging behaviour. If your filter produces a powerful outflow, use a spray bar or direct the return against the back glass to diffuse the current. Aim for a gentle, even flow that keeps the water well-oxygenated without creating a strong current along the bottom.

A heater capable of maintaining a stable temperature within the 22-26 C range is required unless you live in a climate where room temperature consistently falls within this band. Submersible heaters with an adjustable thermostat are the most reliable option. Place the heater near the filter outflow to ensure even heat distribution throughout the tank.

An air pump and airstone are not strictly necessary if your filter provides adequate surface agitation, but they can be a worthwhile addition. Increased oxygenation benefits all fish, and the gentle current produced by an airstone can help circulate detritus towards the filter intake, keeping the substrate cleaner for your bottom-dwelling catfish.

A thermometer – either a reliable digital unit or a simple glass stick-on type – should be visible at all times so you can monitor temperature at a glance. Sudden drops or spikes in temperature are a common trigger for disease in callichthyid catfish.

Diet and Feeding

Brochis sodalis is an omnivorous species with a strong preference for meaty foods, though it will readily accept a varied diet in captivity. In the wild, its diet consists primarily of insect larvae, small crustaceans, worms, and organic detritus sifted from the substrate. Replicating this dietary variety in the aquarium is straightforward and will keep the fish in excellent condition.

A high-quality sinking pellet or wafer designed for bottom-dwelling catfish should form the staple of the diet. Look for products with a high protein content and minimal filler ingredients. Sinking foods are essential – Brochis sodalis feeds almost exclusively from the substrate, and floating foods will largely be ignored.

Supplement the staple diet regularly with frozen or live foods. Bloodworm, daphnia, brine shrimp, tubifex, and mosquito larvae are all eagerly consumed. Live foods are particularly valuable for conditioning breeding adults, but frozen alternatives are perfectly adequate for day-to-day feeding. Blanched vegetables such as courgette (zucchini), cucumber, or shelled peas can be offered occasionally as a source of fibre and micronutrients, though most individuals show a clear preference for protein-rich foods.

Feed once or twice daily, offering only as much food as the group can consume within a few minutes. It is a common misconception that bottom-dwelling catfish will survive on leftover food from other tank inhabitants. While Brochis sodalis will certainly scavenge stray morsels, it should not be expected to subsist on scraps. Target-feed the catfish directly, ideally during dimmer periods or after lights-out, when they are most active and confident.

Overfeeding should be avoided, as uneaten food will decompose on the substrate and degrade water quality – precisely the area where your catfish spend all their time. Remove any uneaten food after feeding to keep the substrate clean.

Behaviour and Temperament

The False Network Corydoras is a thoroughly peaceful, sociable species that poses no threat to any tank mate. It spends the vast majority of its time at or near the substrate, methodically sifting through sand with its barbels in search of food. This foraging behaviour is both endearing and endlessly watchable – a group of Brochis working their way across a sandy substrate is one of the simple pleasures of fishkeeping.

This species must be kept in a group of at least six individuals. Brochis sodalis is a shoaling species, and solitary or pair-kept individuals will be visibly stressed, spending most of their time hiding and refusing food. In a properly sized group, the fish are bolder, more active, and display a much wider range of natural behaviours. Larger groups of eight to twelve are even better if tank space permits.

One notable behaviour shared by all Brochis and Corydoras is periodic trips to the surface to gulp air. The fish darts rapidly from the substrate to the surface, takes a quick gulp, and returns to the bottom. This is entirely normal – these catfish possess a modified intestinal lining that allows them to extract oxygen from swallowed air, supplementing gill respiration. However, if you notice the behaviour becoming very frequent, it may indicate low dissolved oxygen levels in the water, and you should check your aeration and water parameters.

Brochis sodalis is generally most active during the early morning and late evening, though well-settled groups in dimly lit tanks will often forage throughout the day. The fish are not territorial and do not exhibit any form of aggression towards conspecifics or other species. Squabbles over food are virtually unheard of – multiple individuals will happily crowd around the same sinking wafer without any conflict.

When startled, the entire group may scatter briefly before regrouping. This is a normal predator-avoidance response and nothing to be concerned about, provided it is not happening constantly due to aggressive tank mates or excessive disturbance.

Tank Mates

Brochis sodalis is one of the most accommodating community fish available, and its peaceful temperament means it can be housed with a wide variety of similarly gentle species. The key considerations when selecting tank mates are to avoid anything large and aggressive enough to bully or eat the catfish, and to avoid species that compete directly for the same substrate-level space in a way that causes stress. Fast-moving, boisterous species that dominate feeding time can also be problematic, as the relatively sedate Brochis may miss out on food.

Good tank mates

• Cardinal Tetra – A classic Amazonian companion that occupies the mid-water column, leaving the substrate to the catfish.
• Rummy-nose Tetra – A peaceful shoaling tetra from similar soft-water habitats; an ideal dither fish for the upper levels.
• Ember Tetra – Tiny, gentle, and unobtrusive, posing no competition or threat to bottom-dwelling catfish.
• Harlequin Rasbora – A calm, mid-water shoaler that shares similar water parameter preferences.
• Pearl Gourami – A peaceful, slow-moving labyrinth fish that coexists well with bottom-dwellers.
• Kuhli Loach – Another gentle bottom-dweller; the two species tend to ignore each other and share substrate space without conflict.
• Otocinclus – A small, algae-eating catfish that occupies a different ecological niche and causes no competition.
• Cherry Barb – A mild-mannered barb that does well in the same temperature and pH range.

Fish to avoid

• Oscar – Far too large and predatory; will view Brochis as food once it reaches adult size.
• Red-bellied Piranha – An aggressive predator completely incompatible with small catfish.
• Jack Dempsey – A territorial cichlid that will harass and potentially injure bottom-dwelling catfish.
• Tiger Barb – Nippy and boisterous, particularly in small groups; likely to stress slow-moving catfish.
• Common Pleco – Grows extremely large and can become territorial over substrate space in smaller tanks.
• Green Terror – A large, aggressive cichlid that will dominate the lower levels of the tank.

Breeding

Breeding Brochis sodalis in the home aquarium is achievable but requires some preparation and patience. The species follows a reproductive pattern broadly similar to that of Corydoras, though successful spawns are reported less frequently in the hobby, partly because Brochis species are kept less commonly and partly because they may require more precise conditioning.

Begin by establishing a well-conditioned group of at least six adults in a mature, well-maintained aquarium. Sex the fish as best you can – females are generally rounder and broader when viewed from above, especially when gravid. A ratio of two males per female tends to work well. Conditioning should involve several weeks of high-quality feeding, with a strong emphasis on live or frozen foods such as bloodworm, daphnia, and brine shrimp.

Spawning is often triggered by a combination of environmental cues. A large, cool water change – replacing 30-50% of the tank volume with water 2-3 degrees cooler than the tank temperature – can simulate the onset of the rainy season and stimulate breeding behaviour. Lowering the barometric pressure (which sometimes coincides naturally with stormy weather) has also been anecdotally linked to spawning events, though this is difficult to control artificially.

During courtship, males will actively pursue females, nudging their flanks and following them closely around the tank. The female will eventually adopt the classic “T-position,” pressing her mouth against the male’s genital area to receive sperm, which she uses to fertilise a small clutch of eggs held between her pelvic fins. She then deposits the adhesive eggs on a hard surface – typically the aquarium glass, broad plant leaves, or smooth decor. This process is repeated multiple times, with the female depositing small batches of eggs across various surfaces. A single spawning event can produce 200 or more eggs.

The eggs are relatively large and pale, usually hatching within four to five days at 24-25 C. Neither parent provides any care for the eggs or fry, and in a community tank, both eggs and newly hatched fry are at significant risk of predation. For the best survival rates, carefully remove the eggs to a separate rearing tank with matching water parameters and gentle aeration from a sponge filter. Treat the rearing water with a few drops of methylene blue to inhibit fungal growth on infertile eggs.

Newly hatched fry will initially absorb their yolk sacs before becoming free-swimming after a further two to three days. First foods should be very fine – infusoria, microworms, or commercially available liquid fry food. As the fry grow, they can be transitioned to baby brine shrimp and finely crushed flake or pellet food. Growth is steady but not rapid; expect the juveniles to reach a saleable size of around 2-3 cm after approximately three to four months.

Common Diseases

Brochis sodalis is a generally hardy species, but like all freshwater fish, it is susceptible to a number of common ailments, particularly when water quality is allowed to deteriorate or the fish is subjected to chronic stress.

Barbel erosion is perhaps the most frequently encountered issue in captive Brochis and Corydoras. This condition is caused by keeping the fish on sharp or coarse substrate, which gradually wears down and damages the sensitive barbels. In severe cases, the barbels may be reduced to short stumps, significantly impairing the fish’s ability to forage. Prevention is simple: always use fine, smooth sand as the substrate. If barbel erosion is already present, switching to sand and ensuring pristine water quality will allow partial or full regrowth over time.

White spot disease (Ichthyophthirius multifiliis, commonly known as ich) is a common parasitic infection that manifests as small white cysts on the body and fins. It is usually triggered by temperature fluctuations or the introduction of new, unquarantined fish. Treatment with a proprietary white spot remedy is effective, but note that Brochis, like all scaleless and armoured catfish, can be sensitive to certain medications, particularly those containing copper or malachite green at full strength. Always use medications at half the recommended dose for scaleless fish, or choose a formulation specifically labelled as safe for catfish.

Bacterial infections, including fin rot and body sores, can occur in fish kept in poor water conditions. Elevated nitrate levels, infrequent water changes, and overcrowding are the usual underlying causes. Treatment involves correcting the water quality issues and, if necessary, administering an appropriate antibacterial medication.

Internal parasites are occasionally seen in wild-caught specimens. Symptoms include weight loss despite a healthy appetite, white or stringy faeces, and a generally hollow-bellied appearance. Anti-parasitic foods or medications containing praziquantel or levamisole are effective treatments.

Fungal infections may appear as white, cotton-like growths on the body or fins, often following a physical injury. Maintaining good water quality is usually sufficient to prevent secondary fungal infections, but anti-fungal treatments are available for established cases.

As a general rule, prevention is far more effective than cure with Brochis sodalis. Maintain stable, clean water conditions, feed a varied and nutritious diet, keep the fish in appropriate groups on suitable substrate, and quarantine all new additions before introducing them to an established tank.

FAQs

Is Brochis sodalis the same as a Corydoras?

No. While the two genera belong to the same family (Callichthyidae) and share many similarities in care and behaviour, Brochis is a separate genus. The most notable anatomical difference is the higher dorsal fin ray count in Brochis species. As of the 2024 taxonomic revision, the genus Brochis remains the valid placement for this species. In the aquarium hobby, Brochis are often grouped with Corydoras for practical purposes, as their care requirements are largely the same.

Why is it called the “False Network” Corydoras?

The common name refers to the species’ visual resemblance to the reticulated or network-like patterning seen on certain true Network Corydoras. This is purely a naming convention based on pattern similarity and does not imply a close taxonomic relationship between the two groups. The markings on Brochis sodalis are generally less tightly defined than those of the true Network Corydoras.

How many False Network Corydoras should I keep?

A minimum group of six is strongly recommended. Brochis sodalis is a shoaling species that relies on the presence of conspecifics for security and normal behaviour. Fish kept alone or in very small numbers tend to be timid, inactive, and more prone to stress-related illness. If your tank allows it, groups of eight to twelve will produce even more natural and engaging behaviour.

Can I keep Brochis sodalis on gravel?

It is not recommended. Fine, smooth sand is the ideal substrate for this species. The fish constantly probe and sift the substrate with their delicate barbels, and coarse or sharp-edged gravel will damage these organs over time. Barbel erosion is one of the most common welfare issues in captive callichthyid catfish and is almost always caused by inappropriate substrate. If you already have gravel, consider replacing it with sand or at least providing a large sandy area where the catfish can forage safely.

Why does my Brochis sodalis keep darting to the surface?

Occasional trips to the surface to gulp air are completely normal for this species. Brochis sodalis is a facultative air-breather, meaning it can supplement its oxygen intake by swallowing atmospheric air and absorbing oxygen through its intestinal lining. However, if you notice this behaviour becoming very frequent – occurring every few seconds rather than every few minutes – it may indicate low dissolved oxygen levels in the water. Check your aeration, filter flow, and overall water quality, and consider adding an airstone to improve oxygenation.

Related Guides

• Emerald Catfish (Brochis splendens) – The most commonly kept Brochis species and a close relative with very similar care requirements.
• Bronze Corydoras – A hardy, widely available Corydoras species that makes an excellent companion or alternative for community tanks.
• Sterbai Corydoras – A popular Corydoras with similar soft-water preferences, often kept alongside Brochis species.
• Panda Corydoras – Another beloved Corydoras species with broadly comparable care needs, ideal for slightly cooler setups.
• Kuhli Loach – A gentle, bottom-dwelling loach that shares many habitat preferences and makes a compatible tank mate.