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Julidochromis Marlieri Care Guide – Tank Setup, Feeding and Breeding

ByTankora

Quick summary

Julidochromis marlieri is a hardy, moderately challenging Tanganyikan cichlid that suits aquarists able to provide hard, alkaline water and a rock-filled tank of at least 120 litres for a single bonded pair. It’s a great choice if you want a fascinating, breedable cichlid with strong pair bonding and parental care, but it’s not suitable for soft-water community tanks or mixing with other Julidochromis species.

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In this guide:

Introduction

Julidochromis marlieri is one of the most striking and characterful cichlids found in Lake Tanganyika, East Africa. Known commonly as Marlier’s Julie or the Chequered Julie, this rock-dwelling species has captivated aquarists for decades with its bold patterning, fascinating social behaviour, and tendency to form devoted monogamous pair bonds. Unlike many cichlids that rearrange substrate and uproot plants with abandon, Julidochromis marlieri is a relatively restrained species that spends most of its time navigating the crevices and surfaces of rockwork – a behaviour that makes it exceptionally rewarding to observe in a well-designed aquarium.

First described by Poll in 1956, this species belongs to the genus Julidochromis, a small group of elongated, rock-hugging cichlids endemic to Lake Tanganyika. The genus name references a superficial resemblance to wrasses of the family Labridae (formerly placed in the genus Julis), while the species epithet honours the Belgian ichthyologist Georges Marlier, who collected extensively in the lake. In the wild, Julidochromis marlieri inhabits the rocky littoral zones of Lake Tanganyika, rarely straying far from the shelter of boulders and crevices. This intimate association with rocky terrain shapes nearly every aspect of its care in captivity.

For aquarists interested in Tanganyikan cichlids, Julidochromis marlieri represents an excellent entry point. It is hardy, adaptable within appropriate water parameters, and breeds readily in the home aquarium. Its moderate adult size means it does not demand an enormous tank, yet it displays complex behaviours – pair bonding, territory defence, and biparental brood care – that are typically associated with much larger and more demanding cichlid species. Whether kept as a single pair in a species-specific setup or as part of a carefully planned Tanganyikan community, Marlier’s Julie is a species that rewards patient observation and thoughtful aquascaping.

Quick Stats

Scientific name Julidochromis marlieri
Common names Marlier’s Julie, Chequered Julie, Checkered Julie, Marlieri Cichlid
Family Cichlidae
Origin Lake Tanganyika, East Africa (Democratic Republic of the Congo, Burundi, Tanzania, Zambia)
Adult size 10-13 cm (4-5 inches)
Lifespan 5-8 years
Difficulty Moderate
Breeding difficulty Moderate
Temperature 23-27 °C
pH range 7.5-9.0
General hardness (GH) 8-25 dGH
Carbonate hardness (KH) 10-20 dKH
Minimum tank size 120 litres
Conservation status Least Concern (IUCN)

Appearance

Julidochromis marlieri is arguably the most visually complex member of its genus, displaying an intricate pattern that has earned it the common name Chequered Julie. The body is elongated and somewhat cylindrical, typical of the Julidochromis genus, with a shape that is perfectly adapted for manoeuvring through narrow crevices and along rock surfaces. The base colour is creamy white to pale beige, overlaid with a bold network of dark brown to black markings that form a distinctive checkerboard or lattice-like pattern across the flanks. No two individuals are patterned identically, which allows attentive keepers to distinguish between fish in the same tank.

The dorsal fin is long and low, running almost the entire length of the back, and is adorned with the same dark patterning seen on the body, often edged with a narrow band of electric blue or pale blue. The anal and caudal fins also carry dark markings, typically as spots or bars, and may show blue edging as well. The pelvic fins are relatively small and are used deftly for precise positioning against rock surfaces. One of the most charming aspects of Julidochromis behaviour is the habit of swimming upside down along the undersides of rocks, and the ventral colouration – lighter than the dorsal surface – reflects this adaptation.

The eyes are relatively large and dark, set in a head that tapers to a small, slightly underslung mouth adapted for picking invertebrates from rock surfaces. Sexual dimorphism is minimal in this species, which can make sexing a challenge. Females are often slightly larger than males when fully mature, and some experienced keepers note that females may have a marginally rounder body profile, particularly when gravid. However, reliable sexing typically requires observation of breeding behaviour or, less commonly, venting. Juveniles display the same basic patterning as adults but tend to be somewhat paler, with the contrast and intensity of the markings increasing as the fish matures.

Varieties and Morphs

While Julidochromis marlieri does not have the extensive array of captive-bred colour morphs seen in some Malawi cichlids, there is notable geographical variation among wild populations that has given rise to several distinct trade variants. These are typically sold under locality names rather than fancy trade names, and they differ primarily in the intensity, density, and exact patterning of the dark markings.

The Gombe variant, originating from the Gombe area of Tanzania, is one of the more commonly encountered forms. It tends to display a particularly bold and well-defined checkerboard pattern with strong contrast between the dark and light areas. The Magara variant, from Burundi, is another popular form that is often noted for its slightly finer patterning and a tendency towards more blue iridescence in the fins. Fish from Katoto and Halembe in the Democratic Republic of the Congo can display somewhat different proportions of dark to light patterning, with some populations appearing darker overall.

It is worth noting that these geographical variants can interbreed freely in captivity, and many fish available in the hobby are of mixed or unknown locality. Purists who wish to maintain locality-specific lines should purchase from specialist breeders who can confirm the provenance of their stock. Hybridisation between Julidochromis marlieri and other Julidochromis species – particularly J. transcriptus and J. regani – has also occurred in the hobby, producing offspring that may be sold under the marlieri name but which lack the pure characteristics of the species. Responsible aquarists should avoid mixing Julidochromis species in the same tank to prevent unintentional hybridisation.

Natural Habitat

Lake Tanganyika, the second deepest lake in the world, is the sole natural home of Julidochromis marlieri. This ancient rift lake, estimated to be between nine and twelve million years old, has fostered extraordinary levels of endemism among its cichlid fauna. The lake’s water is characteristically hard and alkaline, with a remarkably stable chemistry that has remained relatively unchanged over geological timescales. This stability is a key factor in understanding the care requirements of Tanganyikan species in captivity.

Julidochromis marlieri is found along the rocky shoreline zones of the lake, typically at depths between two and ten metres, although it may occasionally be encountered deeper. Its habitat consists of tumbled boulders, rocky outcrops, and sedimentary rock formations that create a labyrinth of crevices, caves, and overhangs. The species is almost never found over open sand or in areas lacking significant rock cover. Individual fish and mated pairs establish small territories centred on a particular crevice or cave, and they rarely venture more than a metre or so from their chosen refuge.

The substrate in these rocky zones is typically a thin layer of sand or sediment over bedrock, with various species of aufwuchs – the biofilm community of algae, microorganisms, and tiny invertebrates – coating every rock surface. This aufwuchs layer is a critical food source for many Tanganyikan cichlids, including Julidochromis marlieri, which grazes on it throughout the day, picking off small crustaceans, insect larvae, and other invertebrates embedded within the algal matrix. The water in these shallow rocky habitats is clear, well-oxygenated, and subject to gentle wave action, providing consistent water movement without powerful currents.

Tank Size and Setup

A single pair of Julidochromis marlieri can be comfortably housed in a tank of at least 120 litres, although larger aquaria are always preferable and essential if keeping multiple pairs or a community of Tanganyikan species. A tank measuring approximately 80 cm in length is the practical minimum, as this provides sufficient horizontal space for territory establishment. If you intend to keep more than one pair, or to house them alongside other Tanganyikan cichlids, a tank of 200 litres or more – ideally at least 100 cm in length – is strongly recommended to reduce territorial aggression.

The aquascape should prioritise rockwork above all else. Use a combination of larger rocks and smaller stones to create a complex structure with numerous caves, crevices, overhangs, and passages. The goal is to replicate the boulder-strewn littoral zone of Lake Tanganyika. Ensure that rocks are securely placed – either resting directly on the base glass with substrate filled in around them, or supported by egg crate or similar material – to prevent collapse. Julidochromis marlieri will explore every centimetre of the rockwork, and poorly stacked structures can be dislodged by the persistent probing of these curious fish.

Sand is the ideal substrate, both for aesthetic reasons and because it closely resembles the natural habitat. A fine to medium grain sand in a neutral colour works well. Avoid sharp or coarse gravel that could injure the fish as they forage along the bottom. Depth of substrate need not be excessive – two to three centimetres is generally sufficient, although you may want deeper areas in spots where you wish to anchor rocks.

Live plants are not a significant feature of the natural Julidochromis marlieri habitat, and the hard, alkaline water preferred by this species limits plant choices. However, hardy species such as Anubias, Java fern, and Vallisneria can be used to add visual interest. Attach Anubias and Java fern to rocks rather than planting them in substrate, as this is both more natural-looking and more practical. Vallisneria is an excellent choice for background planting and tolerates hard water well.

Moderate lighting is appropriate. These fish do not require intense illumination and will often be more confident and active under subdued lighting conditions. If you choose to grow plants, adjust lighting to meet their needs while providing shaded areas within the rockwork where the fish can retreat.

Water Parameters

Replicating the stable, hard, and alkaline water of Lake Tanganyika is fundamental to the successful keeping of Julidochromis marlieri. This species is notably intolerant of acidic or soft water conditions and will not thrive if parameters are allowed to stray significantly from the recommended ranges. Stability is arguably more important than hitting an exact number – Tanganyikan cichlids have evolved in one of the most chemically stable aquatic environments on Earth, and sudden fluctuations in pH, hardness, or temperature can cause significant stress.

Temperature 23-27 °C
pH 7.5-9.0
General hardness (GH) 8-25 dGH
Carbonate hardness (KH) 10-20 dKH
Ammonia 0 ppm
Nitrite 0 ppm
Nitrate Below 20 ppm

In many areas, tap water may already be sufficiently hard and alkaline to suit this species. If your water is naturally soft, you can increase hardness and pH by using crushed coral, aragonite sand, or limestone rocks in the aquarium or filter. Commercial Tanganyika salt mixes and rift lake buffer products are also available and can be very effective. When performing water changes, always ensure that the replacement water is matched as closely as possible to the tank water in terms of temperature, pH, and hardness.

Aim for a temperature around 25 °C as a comfortable midpoint. Higher temperatures increase metabolic rate and can shorten lifespan, while temperatures below 23 °C may suppress the immune system and reduce activity. Nitrate levels should be kept as low as practicable, ideally below 20 ppm, through regular water changes and appropriate stocking levels. Julidochromis marlieri is sensitive to poor water quality, and elevated nitrate levels can lead to chronic health issues over time.

Filtration and Equipment

Effective filtration is essential for maintaining the pristine water quality that Julidochromis marlieri demands. An external canister filter is the ideal choice for most Tanganyikan setups, as it provides excellent mechanical, biological, and chemical filtration capacity without occupying space inside the tank. Choose a filter rated for at least the full volume of your aquarium, and ideally one rated for a larger tank, as Tanganyikan cichlids are sensitive to nitrogenous waste accumulation.

Biological filtration should be the primary focus. Ensure the filter is loaded with high-quality biological media – ceramic rings, sintered glass, or similar materials – that provide a large surface area for beneficial bacteria. Mechanical filtration (sponges and filter floss) should be cleaned or replaced regularly to prevent clogging and ensure good flow through the biological media. Chemical filtration with activated carbon is optional and generally unnecessary for a well-maintained Tanganyikan tank, although it can be useful for removing medications or discolouration after treatment.

Water movement should be moderate. Julidochromis marlieri inhabits areas of gentle wave action in the wild and appreciates some flow, but it does not require the powerful currents preferred by some riverine species. Position the filter outlet to create a gentle circulation pattern across the tank, ensuring that all areas receive some flow without creating dead spots where waste can accumulate. A small powerhead or wavemaker can supplement the filter output if needed in larger setups.

A reliable heater with a thermostat is essential to maintain stable temperature. Heater guards are advisable, as cichlids can sometimes damage or be burned by unprotected heaters. In tanks of 200 litres or more, consider using two smaller heaters rather than one large unit – this provides redundancy in case of failure and distributes heat more evenly.

An air pump with an airstone is a useful addition, as it increases surface agitation and oxygen exchange, both of which are beneficial for Tanganyikan species. This is particularly valuable in warmer weather when dissolved oxygen levels naturally decrease.

Diet and Feeding

In the wild, Julidochromis marlieri is primarily a micro-predator and aufwuchs grazer. It spends much of its day picking tiny invertebrates – small crustaceans, insect larvae, worms, and other organisms – from rock surfaces, supplemented by some algal matter consumed incidentally. In captivity, this natural diet should be replicated as closely as possible with a varied selection of high-quality foods.

A good-quality cichlid pellet or flake food designed for omnivorous or carnivorous cichlids should form the staple diet. Look for products with whole fish, shrimp, or insect meal as the primary ingredients, and avoid foods heavy in plant-based fillers. Pellets that sink slowly or are small enough to be taken mid-water are ideal, as Julidochromis marlieri feeds at all levels but is most comfortable picking food from rock surfaces and from the water column rather than from the surface.

Supplement the staple diet regularly with frozen or live foods. Brine shrimp (adult and baby), daphnia, cyclops, and mosquito larvae are all excellent choices and will be eagerly consumed. These protein-rich foods promote good condition, enhance colouration, and are invaluable for conditioning breeding pairs. Avoid feeding tubifex worms or bloodworms as a regular part of the diet, as these have been associated with digestive problems in some Tanganyikan cichlids, although occasional small offerings are unlikely to cause harm.

Feed small amounts two to three times daily rather than one large meal. Julidochromis marlieri has a relatively small stomach and benefits from frequent, modest feedings that mimic its natural grazing behaviour. Remove any uneaten food promptly to prevent water quality deterioration. Fasting for one day per week is a common practice among experienced cichlid keepers and can help prevent digestive issues.

Behaviour and Temperament

Julidochromis marlieri is a fascinating species to observe, displaying a range of complex behaviours that make it one of the most engaging small cichlids available to the hobby. The defining behavioural characteristic of this species is its strong monogamous pair bond. Once a pair has formed, the two fish become virtually inseparable, co-defending their territory, jointly caring for their brood, and often resting side by side within their chosen cave or crevice. These pair bonds can last for the lifetime of the fish, and the death of a partner can sometimes cause visible distress in the surviving individual.

Within their territory, a mated pair can be surprisingly assertive. Despite their modest size, Julidochromis marlieri will vigorously defend the area around their cave or crevice against intruders of their own species and other similarly sized fish. This territorial aggression is most pronounced during breeding but is present to some degree at all times. The territory itself is typically centred on a cave or tight crevice and extends roughly 20-30 cm in all directions, although this varies with the individual and the available space.

One of the most distinctive and charming behaviours of Julidochromis marlieri is its habit of swimming upside down along the undersides of rocks and cave ceilings. This is a natural foraging behaviour that allows the fish to exploit food resources on surfaces that other species cannot easily access. In a well-designed aquarium with plenty of overhangs and cave roofs, you will regularly see your fish cruising inverted along these surfaces, picking at biofilm and tiny organisms.

Julidochromis marlieri is not a schooling species and does not shoal. In the wild, each pair maintains its own small territory, and in captivity, keeping more than one pair requires careful planning and ample space. Unpaired individuals, particularly surplus males, can be subjected to relentless aggression from an established pair and may need to be removed. It is generally best to either keep a single pair or to provide a very large tank with many distinct territories if you wish to maintain a group.

Overall, this species is active during daylight hours, spending much of its time patrolling its territory, foraging on rock surfaces, and interacting with its mate. It is not a timid species once established, although newly introduced fish may be reclusive for a few days until they have identified a suitable refuge.

Tank Mates

Choosing appropriate tank mates for Julidochromis marlieri requires an understanding of both the species’ territorial behaviour and the specific water chemistry requirements of Tanganyikan cichlids. The best companions are other Tanganyikan species that occupy different ecological niches, thereby minimising direct competition for territory and food. Avoid mixing Julidochromis marlieri with fish from Lake Malawi or other soft-water environments, as the water parameter requirements are fundamentally incompatible. Similarly, avoid keeping multiple Julidochromis species together, as they may hybridise. Within a sufficiently large and well-structured tank, Julidochromis marlieri can coexist peacefully with a range of carefully selected companions.

Good tank mates

  • Multifasciatus Shell Dweller – A small shell-dwelling cichlid that occupies a completely different niche and rarely competes for territory with rock-dwellers.
  • Neolamprologus brichardi – A graceful Tanganyikan species that tends to occupy mid-water and upper rock zones, reducing conflict with Julidochromis in the lower rockwork.
  • Altolamprologus calvus – A slow-moving, laterally compressed predator that inhabits deep crevices and generally ignores Julidochromis pairs.
  • Altolamprologus compressiceps – Similar to A. calvus in behaviour and habitat preference, making it a compatible companion in larger setups.
  • Cyprichromis leptosoma – An open-water schooling cichlid that stays in the upper water column and adds movement and colour without encroaching on the rockwork.
  • Neolamprologus leleupi – A colourful rock-dwelling species that can coexist with Julidochromis in a large, well-structured tank with sufficient territories for both.
  • Synodontis petricola – A small Tanganyikan catfish that is peaceful, hardy, and shares the same water parameter preferences.
  • Lamprologus ocellatus – Another shell-dweller that stays close to the substrate and avoids the rockwork territories claimed by Julidochromis.

Fish to avoid

  • Julidochromis transcriptus – Too closely related; will hybridise with J. marlieri and compete for identical territory types.
  • Julidochromis regani – Another congener that risks hybridisation and intense territorial conflict in shared rockwork.
  • White Spotted Cichlid – A highly aggressive and territorial herbivore that requires colony keeping and can overwhelm the more reserved Julidochromis.
  • Cyphotilapia frontosa – Grows far too large and will readily consume smaller Julidochromis, especially juveniles.
  • Neon Tetra – A soft-water species with completely incompatible water parameter requirements; would not survive in Tanganyikan conditions.
  • Oscar – Far too large, aggressive, and predatory; would treat Julidochromis marlieri as prey.
  • Tropheus moorii – Extremely territorial and aggressive, requiring colony setups that are not compatible with the pair-based social structure of Julidochromis.
  • Mbuna Cichlids – Lake Malawi species with differing water chemistry needs and typically overly aggressive temperaments for cohabitation with Julidochromis.

Breeding

Breeding Julidochromis marlieri in captivity is a rewarding experience and is well within the capabilities of moderately experienced aquarists. The key challenge is not triggering spawning behaviour – which tends to occur naturally once a bonded pair is established – but rather obtaining a compatible pair in the first place. Because sexual dimorphism is minimal, the most reliable method is to purchase a group of six to eight juveniles and allow them to pair off naturally as they mature. Once a pair has formed, the remaining fish should be removed, as they will be subjected to increasing aggression from the bonded pair.

Courtship is relatively subtle compared to the elaborate displays of many cichlid species. The pair will spend increasing amounts of time together in their chosen cave or crevice, and the female may be observed cleaning a flat surface – typically the roof or inner wall of a cave – in preparation for spawning. Julidochromis marlieri is a cave spawner that characteristically deposits eggs on the ceiling of a cave or overhang, often in a location that is difficult for the aquarist to observe directly.

The female deposits a relatively small clutch of eggs, typically between 20 and 50, although the number varies with the size and condition of the female. The eggs are adhesive and are attached individually to the cave surface. Both parents participate in guarding the eggs, with the female typically remaining closer to the clutch while the male patrols the outer perimeter of the territory. Incubation takes approximately three to four days at 25 °C, after which the larvae hatch and remain attached to the spawning surface by their yolk sacs for a further three to five days.

Once the fry become free-swimming, they initially stay very close to the cave entrance, darting back inside at the first sign of danger. The parents continue to guard the fry for several weeks, and one of the most remarkable aspects of Julidochromis breeding is that multiple generations of fry may coexist within the parental territory simultaneously. Older juveniles from previous spawns are often tolerated and may even assist in territory defence – a behaviour known as cooperative breeding that is relatively unusual among cichlids.

Free-swimming fry can be fed freshly hatched brine shrimp (Artemia nauplii), microworms, and finely crushed flake food. Growth is relatively slow compared to many other cichlid species. Ensure that the tank has plenty of tiny crevices where fry can shelter, as even the parents may occasionally consume very small offspring if they stray too far from the breeding cave. Water quality must be maintained at the highest standard during the rearing period, with frequent small water changes preferred over infrequent large ones.

Common Diseases

Julidochromis marlieri is a robust species when maintained in appropriate water conditions, but it is susceptible to the same diseases that affect other freshwater cichlids, particularly when water quality deteriorates or the fish are subjected to stress from aggression, overcrowding, or poor diet.

Ich (white spot disease), caused by the parasite Ichthyophthirius multifiliis, is one of the most common ailments encountered. It presents as small white spots on the body and fins, accompanied by flashing (rubbing against objects), clamped fins, and reduced appetite. Treatment involves raising the temperature gradually to 28-30 °C and administering a suitable ich medication. Tanganyikan cichlids can be sensitive to some medications, so always use products at the recommended dose and avoid those containing copper at high concentrations unless the product is specifically labelled as safe for sensitive species.

Bacterial infections, including fin rot and body ulcers, can occur when water quality is suboptimal or when fish have been physically injured during territorial disputes. Maintaining excellent water quality through regular water changes and avoiding overstocking are the best preventative measures. If infection does occur, isolate the affected fish if possible and treat with a broad-spectrum antibacterial medication.

Bloat is a concern with many Tanganyikan cichlids and can affect Julidochromis marlieri, particularly if the diet is inappropriate. Symptoms include a swollen abdomen, loss of appetite, and lethargy. The exact cause of bloat in cichlids is debated, but it is often associated with internal parasites, bacterial infection, or dietary issues. Prevention through proper diet – avoiding excessive bloodworm and fatty foods – is far more effective than treatment, which often proves difficult once symptoms are advanced.

Internal parasites, including various species of intestinal worms and protozoa, can be introduced with wild-caught fish or live foods. Quarantine all new arrivals for a minimum of two weeks, and consider prophylactic deworming if you suspect parasites. Symptoms of internal parasites include weight loss despite normal feeding, white or stringy faeces, and a generally poor condition.

Skin and gill flukes are occasionally encountered and cause symptoms including excessive mucus production, laboured breathing, and rubbing against objects. Treatment with a suitable anti-fluke medication is usually effective if administered promptly.

FAQs

How can I tell if my Julidochromis marlieri are male or female?

Sexing Julidochromis marlieri is notoriously difficult due to the minimal sexual dimorphism in this species. Females are often slightly larger than males when fully grown, and may appear marginally fuller in the body, particularly when carrying eggs. However, these differences are subtle and unreliable in younger fish. The most dependable method is to purchase a group of juveniles and allow natural pair formation. Once a pair has bonded and begun breeding, you can be confident of having one of each sex. Venting – examining the genital papillae – is possible but requires experience and careful handling, which can stress the fish.

Can I keep Julidochromis marlieri with other Julidochromis species?

This is strongly discouraged. Different Julidochromis species will readily hybridise in captivity, producing offspring that are neither one species nor the other. These hybrids then enter the hobby and dilute the purity of captive populations. Additionally, Julidochromis species occupy the same ecological niche and will compete intensely for territory, leading to aggression and stress. If you wish to keep multiple Julidochromis species, maintain them in entirely separate aquaria.

How many Julidochromis marlieri can I keep in a 120-litre tank?

A 120-litre tank is suitable for a single bonded pair. Keeping more than two adults in a tank of this size is likely to result in serious aggression, as there is insufficient space for multiple territories. If you wish to start with a group of juveniles to allow natural pair formation, a larger tank of at least 200 litres is advisable. Once a pair forms, the remaining fish should be rehomed promptly to prevent injury or death from territorial aggression.

Why does my Julidochromis marlieri swim upside down?

This is completely normal and characteristic behaviour for all Julidochromis species. These fish have evolved to exploit food resources on the undersides of rocks and cave ceilings, and they are perfectly adapted to swimming inverted along these surfaces. You will frequently observe your fish cruising upside down beneath overhangs and along cave roofs, picking at biofilm and tiny invertebrates. This behaviour is a sign of a healthy, confident fish in a well-designed aquarium, not an indication of illness.

Do Julidochromis marlieri need a heater?

Yes, unless your home maintains a consistently stable temperature within the 23-27 °C range year-round, a heater is essential. Even in warmer climates, temperature fluctuations between day and night can stress Tanganyikan cichlids, which have evolved in an environment of remarkable thermal stability. A reliable heater with an accurate thermostat set to approximately 25 °C is a fundamental piece of equipment for any Julidochromis marlieri tank.

  • Julidochromis transcriptus – A smaller congener with similar care requirements, ideal for aquarists considering other members of the Julidochromis genus.
  • Julidochromis regani – Another popular Julidochromis species that shares the rock-dwelling lifestyle and monogamous pair-bonding behaviour.

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