Flameback Bleeding Heart Tetra

Quick summary

The Flameback Bleeding Heart Tetra (Hyphessobrycon pyrrhonotus) is a striking but uncommonly seen characin that appeals to experienced soft-water community keepers. It is a peaceful, shoaling species that does best in groups of six or more in a well-planted, dimly lit aquarium, though prospective keepers should be aware that reliable husbandry information specific to this species is considerably sparser than for its better-known relative, the true Bleeding Heart Tetra (H. erythrostigma).

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Last researched and fact-checked: June 2025.

• Introduction
• Quick Stats
• Appearance
• Natural habitat
• Tank size and setup
• Water parameters
• Filtration and equipment
• Diet and feeding
• Behaviour and temperament
• Tank mates
• Breeding
• Common diseases and health
• Frequently asked questions
• Related guides

Introduction

The Flameback Bleeding Heart Tetra, Hyphessobrycon pyrrhonotus, was described by Burgess in 1993. Its species name derives from the Greek pyrrhos (flame-coloured) and notos (back), a direct reference to the reddish-orange dorsal saddle that sets it apart from the more widely kept H. erythrostigma. While both species belong to the broader “bleeding heart” complex of deep-bodied, laterally compressed tetras, the Flameback is far less commonly traded in the UK hobby and far less thoroughly documented in aquarium literature.

Keepers who are familiar with the true Bleeding Heart Tetra will find many similarities in body shape, temperament, and general care requirements. However, it is important to be candid: much of the specific husbandry detail circulated online for H. pyrrhonotus is inferred from closely related species rather than drawn from published studies or dedicated hobbyist reports on this fish in particular. Throughout this guide, we will note clearly where information is well supported and where it is extrapolated from the wider bleeding heart group.

For aquarists willing to maintain soft, acidic water and who appreciate a subtly different colour palette from the standard Bleeding Heart, the Flameback is a rewarding fish. It is not often available from UK retailers, so most specimens are sourced through specialist importers or occasionally through wholesalers bringing in wild-caught shipments from South America.

Appearance

Like other members of the bleeding heart complex, H. pyrrhonotus has a deep, laterally compressed body that gives it a somewhat disc-like profile when viewed head-on. Adults reach an estimated 6 to 7 cm in standard length, making them a medium-sized tetra. However, precise maximum sizes in captivity are not thoroughly documented for this species specifically.

The defining feature is the reddish-orange to flame-coloured saddle across the dorsal region, from which both the common name and the Latin epithet derive. This dorsal blush is most intense in healthy, well-conditioned specimens kept in soft, acidic water with subdued lighting. The flanks are silvery to pinkish, and a dark pinkish-red blotch is typically present on the midline of the body, similar in placement to, but often less vivid than, the bold “bleeding heart” mark seen in H. erythrostigma. There can be variation in the intensity of this spot among individuals.

The fins are generally translucent to lightly tinted. In mature males of the bleeding heart group, the dorsal fin tends to be elongated, sometimes developing a filamentous extension, and the anal fin may show more pronounced length. Whether this dimorphism is as marked in H. pyrrhonotus as in H. erythrostigma is not thoroughly described in the available literature, though hobbyists who have kept the species do note that males tend to have longer finnage than females. Females are generally deeper-bodied when in breeding condition.

Colouration can appear washed out in stressed or newly imported fish. Specimens recently arrived from wild collection may look quite pale, and it can take several weeks in stable, appropriate water conditions before the flameback saddle and body colours develop fully.

Natural habitat

Hyphessobrycon pyrrhonotus is known from the Rio Negro basin in Brazil. The Rio Negro and its tributaries are classic blackwater habitats: the water is stained a deep tea colour by tannins leached from decaying vegetation, resulting in extremely low mineral content, negligible carbonate hardness, and a pH that can fall well below 5.0 in some areas. General hardness is often barely measurable.

The substrate in these environments is typically composed of fine sand overlain with leaf litter, fallen branches, and submerged root tangles. Aquatic plant growth is often sparse due to the very low light penetration caused by the tannin-stained water, though marginal and emergent vegetation may be present along the banks. The fish tend to inhabit slower-moving stretches, side channels, and flooded forest margins where they find shelter among woody debris.

Specific ecological data for H. pyrrhonotus in the wild, such as detailed dietary analysis, population density, or precise micro-habitat preferences, are not well documented in published literature. What is known aligns broadly with the conditions described for other bleeding heart complex species found in the upper and middle Rio Negro system.

The species has not been assessed by the IUCN Red List, so its conservation status in the wild is officially unknown. Given that it comes from the Rio Negro drainage, habitat degradation, deforestation, and potential impacts from gold mining in parts of the Amazon basin are plausible concerns, but no specific threat assessment exists for this species.

Tank size and setup

A minimum tank size of around 90 litres (approximately 20 UK gallons) is appropriate for a small group of six to eight fish. Because these are active, mid-water shoalers with a moderately deep body, a tank with good horizontal swimming length is preferable to a tall, narrow design. A standard 90 cm (3 foot) tank would be a sensible starting point for a slightly larger group or a mixed community.

The aquascape should aim to replicate the dimly lit, tannin-rich environment of the Rio Negro. A fine sand substrate works well, topped with dried leaf litter (Indian almond leaves, oak leaves, or beech leaves are all suitable). Bogwood, driftwood, and tangled root structures provide both visual barriers and a natural source of tannins. Floating plants such as Salvinia, Limnobium, or Ceratopteris will help diffuse light and create the subdued conditions under which the fish’s colours tend to look their best.

Rooted plants are not essential and would not feature heavily in a strict biotope setup, but hardy species tolerant of soft, acidic water, such as Microsorum pteropus (Java fern) or Cryptocoryne species, can be included if desired. Avoid strongly light-demanding plants unless you are prepared to provide a brighter environment, which may cause the fish to appear pale or stressed.

A secure, tight-fitting lid or cover glass is recommended. Like many characins, these fish may jump, particularly when startled or during the first few days after introduction to a new tank.

Water parameters

Matching the soft, acidic conditions of the Rio Negro is central to keeping this species in good health and colour. The following parameters are recommended:

These are genuinely soft-water fish. UK tap water is typically too hard and too alkaline for this species, so most keepers will need to use reverse osmosis (RO) water, remineralised very lightly if at all, or a mix of RO and tap water adjusted to achieve the target parameters. Peat filtration or the addition of botanical extracts (alder cones, catappa leaves) can help lower pH naturally and tint the water, though these should complement, not replace, proper water chemistry management.

Nitrate is kept to a lower target here (below 10 ppm) than for a typical community tank because blackwater species from the Rio Negro originate from environments with negligible dissolved nitrogenous waste. Regular partial water changes of 20 – 30 % weekly, using temperature-matched and chemistry-matched water, are advisable.

Filtration and equipment

Filtration should provide gentle to moderate flow. In the wild, these fish inhabit relatively calm waters, so a powerful current is neither necessary nor desirable. A canister filter or a mature sponge filter rated for the tank volume will suffice. If using a canister or hang-on-back filter with a strong outflow, consider diffusing the return with a spray bar or lily pipe directed along the back glass to reduce direct current in the main swimming area.

Biological filtration is especially important in soft, acidic setups because the low pH and KH can reduce the efficiency of nitrifying bacteria. Ensure the filter has ample biological media and is well matured before introducing the fish. Cycling a soft-water tank can take longer than in harder water, and ammonia spikes are more dangerous at lower pH in some respects (un-ionised ammonia is more toxic at higher pH, but the overall buffering fragility of very soft water means any lapse in the nitrogen cycle can be problematic).

A reliable heater set within the 24 – 28 °C (75 – 82 °F) range is essential. A heater guard is a sensible precaution, particularly if the fish are kept alongside bottom-dwelling species that might rest against the heater.

Lighting should be subdued. If the tank includes floating plants and tannin-stained water, standard LED lighting can be used and the natural conditions will temper the intensity reaching the fish. In a clearer-water setup, dimmable LEDs or a shorter photoperiod will help keep the fish comfortable.

Diet and feeding

No detailed dietary studies specific to H. pyrrhonotus have been published, but as a member of the bleeding heart tetra complex and a mid-water characin, it can reasonably be expected to be an omnivorous micro-predator in the wild, feeding on small invertebrates, insect larvae, zooplankton, and possibly some plant matter and detritus.

In the aquarium, the species accepts a range of prepared and live or frozen foods. A good quality micro-pellet or flake food designed for small tropical fish can form the staple diet. This should be supplemented regularly with frozen or live foods such as bloodworm, daphnia, brine shrimp (both adult and nauplii), cyclops, and mosquito larvae. Variety is important for maintaining colour, condition, and overall health.

Feed small portions once or twice daily, offering only what can be consumed within a couple of minutes. As with many tetras, overfeeding is a common mistake that leads to deteriorating water quality, which is particularly problematic in the soft, low-buffered water this species requires.

Behaviour and temperament

The Flameback Bleeding Heart Tetra is a peaceful, shoaling species that should be kept in groups of at least six, though eight or more is preferable. In smaller numbers, individuals may become shy, stressed, or occasionally nippy towards tankmates. In a suitably sized group, the fish will form a loose shoal, occupying the middle water column and occasionally venturing towards the surface or lower levels when feeding.

Males may display to one another with flared fins and intensified colour, particularly if the group contains several males. This behaviour is generally harmless posturing and rarely escalates to genuine aggression, though providing adequate space and visual breaks (plants, wood) helps ensure subordinate fish can retreat if needed.

The species is not known to be a fin-nipper, making it a reasonable companion for other peaceful community fish, provided those tankmates share similar water chemistry requirements. As with many characins, they can be somewhat timid when first introduced, and newly imported wild-caught specimens may take some time to settle and begin feeding confidently. Dimmed lighting and the presence of dither fish (other small, confident tetras already established in the tank) can help ease the transition.

Tank mates

Suitable companions are those that thrive in the same warm, soft, acidic water and share a peaceful temperament. Because H. pyrrhonotus is a Rio Negro species, a blackwater-themed community built around fish from similar habitats makes the most natural and practical pairing. Avoid any species that requires hard, alkaline water, and avoid large or aggressive fish that would intimidate or predate on a medium-sized tetra.

Good tank mates

• Cardinal tetra, a classic Rio Negro companion that shares identical water chemistry needs
• Rummy-nose tetra, another soft-water shoaler that adds movement and contrasting colour
• Green neon tetra, a small, peaceful tetra well suited to blackwater conditions
• Bleeding heart tetra, the closely related H. erythrostigma, which occupies a similar niche
• Ember tetra, a tiny, warm-water tetra that does well in soft, acidic setups
• Corydoras sterbai, a warm-water catfish comfortable in softer conditions
• Otocinclus, a gentle algae grazer that tolerates soft water
• Chocolate gourami, a soft-water labyrinth fish for experienced keepers
• Pencilfish, calm surface-dwellers from similar South American habitats
• Apistogramma agassizii, a dwarf cichlid from the Amazon basin that pairs well in a blackwater community

Fish to avoid

• Malawi cichlids, require hard, alkaline water and are far too aggressive
• Oscar, a large predatory cichlid that would eat medium-sized tetras
• Tiger barb, a notorious fin-nipper that can harass long-finned tetras
• Common goldfish, a cold-water species with entirely incompatible requirements
• Jewel cichlid, territorial and aggressive, especially when breeding
• Convict cichlid, another aggressive Central American cichlid unsuitable for soft-water communities
• Red-tail shark, territorial and potentially aggressive towards mid-water fish
• Flowerhorn, a large, highly aggressive hybrid cichlid
• Buenos Aires tetra, a boisterous, plant-eating tetra that prefers cooler, harder water
• African butterfly fish, a predator capable of taking smaller tetras, and from an entirely different biotope

Breeding

Specific, documented breeding reports for Hyphessobrycon pyrrhonotus in the aquarium hobby are extremely limited. What follows is based on the little that is known, supplemented by what can be cautiously inferred from the better-documented breeding of related bleeding heart complex species. Where inference is involved, this is stated plainly.

In related species such as H. erythrostigma, breeding in captivity is considered difficult and is achieved only sporadically, even by experienced breeders. The fish are egg-scatterers, depositing adhesive or semi-adhesive eggs among fine-leaved plants or spawning mops. The parents show no brood care and will readily eat their own eggs if given the opportunity. It is reasonable to expect broadly similar reproductive behaviour from H. pyrrhonotus, but this has not been confirmed in published accounts.

Sexing adults can be tentatively attempted by looking for the more elongated dorsal and anal fins typically seen in males of the bleeding heart group, along with the deeper body shape of gravid females. However, reliable external sex differences have not been described in detail specifically for H. pyrrhonotus.

If an attempt at breeding is to be made, the following approach, adapted from general characin breeding practice, would be a reasonable starting point. A separate, dimly lit breeding tank of around 30 to 45 litres should be set up with very soft, acidic water (pH around 5.0 to 5.5, GH below 2 dGH, temperature at the warmer end of the species’ range, around 27 – 28 °C / 81 – 82 °F). Fine-leaved plants or spawning mops can serve as egg-receiving media, and a mesh or grid on the bottom may help protect any eggs from being consumed. Condition a pair or small group with plentiful live and frozen foods for several weeks before introducing them to the breeding tank.

Whether this approach would succeed with H. pyrrhonotus specifically is uncertain. Given the general difficulty of breeding bleeding heart tetras in captivity, combined with the rarity of this particular species in the hobby, it would not be surprising if no reliable captive breeding protocol has been established. Anyone who does succeed would be making a genuine contribution to the knowledge base for this species.

Common diseases and health

The Flameback Bleeding Heart Tetra is not known to be unusually susceptible to any species-specific disease, though it shares the general vulnerabilities of small characins. Ich (white spot disease), caused by the parasite Ichthyophthirius multifiliis, is a common concern, particularly in newly imported or stressed fish. Velvet disease (Piscinoodinium) and bacterial infections such as fin rot or columnaris can also occur, especially if water quality deteriorates or the fish experience a sudden change in parameters. Maintaining stable, clean, appropriately soft and acidic water is the single most effective preventative measure.

Wild-caught specimens, which most traded H. pyrrhonotus are likely to be, may carry internal parasites. Quarantining new arrivals for a minimum of two to four weeks in a separate tank is strongly recommended. During quarantine, observe the fish closely for signs of emaciation, abnormal faeces, rapid breathing, or persistent clamped fins. Some keepers choose to prophylactically treat wild-caught fish for internal parasites with a suitable anti-helminthic, though this is a matter of individual judgment and should be done carefully.

Stress is a significant factor in disease susceptibility for this species. Overly bright lighting, hard or alkaline water, boisterous tankmates, or insufficient group size can all contribute to chronic stress, which suppresses the immune system and makes the fish more vulnerable to opportunistic infections. Providing the right environment from the outset is far more effective than treating problems after they arise.

Frequently asked questions

How is the Flameback Bleeding Heart Tetra different from the regular Bleeding Heart Tetra?

The key distinguishing feature is the reddish-orange dorsal saddle, or “flameback,” which gives the fish its common name. In the true Bleeding Heart Tetra (Hyphessobrycon erythrostigma), the most prominent colour feature is typically a vivid red or pinkish blotch on the flank. While both species share a deep-bodied shape and general appearance, H. pyrrhonotus was described as a separate species in 1993 based on differences in colour pattern and morphology.

Where can I buy Flameback Bleeding Heart Tetras in the UK?

This species is not commonly stocked by mainstream aquarium retailers in the UK. Your best options are specialist tropical fish shops, online dealers that import unusual South American species, or occasional listings from wholesalers. Availability is sporadic and largely depends on wild-collection schedules from the Rio Negro region. Joining online fishkeeping forums and social media groups can be a useful way to find out when shipments arrive.

Can I keep this species in hard tap water?

This is not recommended. Hyphessobrycon pyrrhonotus originates from extremely soft, acidic blackwater habitats, and its long-term health and colour are likely to suffer in hard, alkaline conditions. UK tap water in most regions is too hard for this species. Using RO water, remineralised lightly or blended with a small proportion of tap water to reach a GH of 1 to 5 dGH and a pH below 6.5, is the most reliable approach.

How many should I keep together?

A minimum of six is recommended, though eight or more will produce a more natural shoaling dynamic and reduce any tendency towards shyness or occasional fin-nipping within the group. As with most shoaling tetras, larger groups generally result in happier, more confident, and more colourful fish.

Is this species suitable for beginners?

It is better suited to intermediate or experienced keepers. The need for soft, acidic water, the relative scarcity of detailed husbandry information, and the fact that most specimens are wild-caught all add a layer of complexity that is best managed by someone with prior experience of keeping tropical fish, and ideally some familiarity with maintaining blackwater or soft-water setups.

Will this fish eat plants?

No, this species is not known to be herbivorous or a significant plant-eater. It is safe to keep with live aquatic plants, and indeed benefits from the cover and water quality improvements that plants provide.

Related guides

• Bleeding heart tetra
• Cardinal tetra
• Rummy-nose tetra
• Ember tetra
• Green neon tetra
• Rosy tetra
• Apistogramma agassizii
• Pencilfish