Three-striped African Glass Catfish

Quick Summary

The Three-striped African Glass Catfish is a peaceful, active schooling catfish that swims in the open water column rather than hiding on the bottom – making it a lively and unusual addition to a community aquarium. It must be kept in groups of at least six, and it does best in a well-established tank with gentle to moderate current and plenty of swimming space.

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In this guide:

• Introduction
• Quick Stats
• Appearance
• Natural Habitat
• Tank Size and Setup
• Water Parameters
• Diet and Feeding
• Behaviour and Temperament

Introduction

The Three-striped African Glass Catfish, Pareutropius buffei, is one of the most charming and misunderstood catfish available to freshwater aquarists. Unlike the vast majority of catfish species, which tend to be nocturnal bottom-dwellers, P. buffei is a diurnal, mid-to-upper-water schooling fish that spends its day actively cruising through open water in tight shoals. This behaviour, combined with a sleek, semi-transparent silvery body marked with bold horizontal stripes, makes it a genuinely eye-catching centrepiece for community and biotope aquaria alike.

It is essential to note that this species is very frequently confused in the aquarium trade with its close relative, the Debauwi Catfish (Pareutropius debauwi). Both belong to the family Schilbeidae and share a similar body plan, colouration, and schooling habit. For many years, the two were sold interchangeably under either name, and mislabelling persists to this day. The fish most commonly encountered in the hobby and typically sold as the “African Glass Catfish” or “Three-striped African Glass Catfish” is in fact P. buffei, not P. debauwi. The true P. debauwi is actually rather rarely imported. The most reliable way to distinguish the two is through subtle differences in stripe intensity, body depth, and fin morphology, though positive identification often requires knowledge of collection locality. Throughout this guide, all care advice refers specifically to Pareutropius buffei.

Originally described from the Niger River basin in West Africa, P. buffei has been a staple of the hobby since the mid-20th century. It is a robust and adaptable fish once settled into a suitable environment, but it does have specific social and environmental needs. Kept alone or in insufficient numbers, individuals become chronically stressed, lose colour, refuse food, and often succumb to disease. Provided with a proper shoal, good water quality, and appropriate tank mates, however, this species is hardy, long-lived, and endlessly entertaining to watch.

Appearance

Pareutropius buffei is a slender, laterally compressed catfish with an elongated, torpedo-shaped body built for sustained swimming in open water. The overall body colour is a pale, translucent silver, and in good conditions, the body has a subtle iridescent sheen that catches the light as the fish moves. The semi-transparency of the flanks is the origin of the common name “Glass Catfish”, and while the fish is not as dramatically see-through as the Asian Glass Catfish (Kryptopterus vitreolus), you can often make out internal structures and the dark peritoneum through the body wall, particularly in younger or thinner specimens.

The most distinctive feature is the set of three dark horizontal stripes running the length of the body. The most prominent stripe runs along the lateral line from behind the gill cover to the base of the caudal fin. A second stripe sits above it, running roughly along the dorsal midline, and a third, often fainter stripe runs below the lateral line along the ventral portion of the flank. In some individuals and under certain lighting, the lower stripe may appear incomplete or less distinct, but the combination of three lines is the hallmark of the species and helps distinguish it from most other schilbeids.

The head is relatively small and somewhat pointed, with a subterminal mouth positioned slightly upward – an adaptation for feeding on items drifting in the water column or at the surface. Like all catfish, P. buffei possesses barbels, though these are relatively short and unobtrusive compared to many other catfish families. Two pairs of barbels are present: the maxillary barbels extend backward along the cheeks, and the mandibular barbels are shorter and positioned on the lower jaw.

The dorsal fin is small and positioned well forward on the body, while the anal fin is notably long, running along much of the ventral surface toward the deeply forked caudal fin. This fin arrangement is typical of Schilbeidae and contributes to the streamlined, hydrodynamic profile. The adipose fin, characteristic of many catfish, is present but very small. The pectoral fins are of moderate size and bear a hardened first ray (spine), as is typical of catfish, though in this species it is relatively slender and not dangerously sharp.

Sexing P. buffei is not straightforward. Mature females tend to be very slightly deeper-bodied and plumper when in breeding condition, but outside of spawning readiness, the sexes are essentially indistinguishable to the casual observer.

Natural Habitat

Pareutropius buffei is native to river systems in West and Central Africa, with its primary range encompassing the Niger River basin and associated tributaries in Nigeria and Cameroon. It inhabits flowing river channels, tributary streams, and occasionally floodplain areas during the wet season. The species shows a strong preference for areas with moderate current, often congregating in schools in the mid-water column of main river channels or along the edges of faster-flowing sections where food items are carried downstream.

The habitats where P. buffei is found are typically characterised by relatively clear to moderately turbid water over sandy or muddy substrates. Overhanging riparian vegetation, submerged branches, and root tangles provide some cover along the river margins, but these fish are not typically found hiding amongst dense structure. Instead, they occupy the open-water zone, relying on their schooling behaviour and speed for protection from predators. The water chemistry across their range is generally soft to moderately hard and slightly acidic to neutral, though conditions can vary seasonally with rainfall patterns.

Understanding this natural habitat is key to providing appropriate captive care. P. buffei is not a fish that wants caves, dense planting, or still water. It wants space to swim, the company of its own kind, and a gentle current to orientate against. Recreating these conditions in the aquarium is the single most important factor in keeping this species successfully.

Tank Size and Setup

The minimum recommended tank size for a group of six Pareutropius buffei is 120 litres, but a longer tank of 150-200 litres or more is preferable. Tank length is far more important than height or depth for this species. Because P. buffei is an active, open-water swimmer, a standard rectangular aquarium of at least 100 cm in length provides the horizontal swimming space the shoal requires. Tall or cube-format tanks are poorly suited to this species.

The aquascape should prioritise open swimming space in the central and upper portions of the tank. Avoid cluttering the midwater with tall ornaments or dense stem plant thickets that impede the shoal’s movement. Instead, arrange hardscape and planting around the perimeter and base of the tank. Driftwood, smooth river stones, and robust plants such as Anubias, Java Fern, or Bolbitis positioned along the back and sides of the aquarium create a natural-looking backdrop and provide some visual security without restricting swimming room.

A sandy substrate is the most natural choice and is gentle on the barbels, though fine gravel is also acceptable. Avoid sharp or rough substrates. Some floating plants, such as Amazon Frogbit or Water Lettuce, are beneficial as they diffuse overhead lighting, which helps reduce skittish behaviour. P. buffei can be sensitive to overly bright, unshaded lighting, and the dappled effect created by floating plants mimics the light conditions under riparian canopy in its native rivers.

A moderate water current is highly recommended. P. buffei actively enjoys swimming against a gentle flow, and providing this through the filter return, a small powerhead, or a spray bar positioned along the back wall of the tank encourages natural behaviour and exercise. However, the flow should not be so strong that smaller or less vigorous tank mates are buffeted.

A secure, well-fitting lid is essential. P. buffei is a capable jumper, and startled individuals will readily leap from an open-topped aquarium. This risk is elevated during the settling-in period, during sudden lighting changes, or if the group size is too small and the fish are stressed.

Water Parameters

Pareutropius buffei is reasonably adaptable regarding water chemistry, provided extremes are avoided and conditions remain stable. It does best in soft to moderately hard, slightly acidic to neutral water that is well-oxygenated and free from ammonia and nitrite. Consistency is more important than hitting an exact number – sudden swings in pH, temperature, or hardness are far more harmful than slightly suboptimal but stable values.

Regular partial water changes of 25-30% weekly are the most effective way to maintain water quality. When performing water changes, ensure the replacement water is temperature-matched and dechlorinated. P. buffei is sensitive to deteriorating water quality, and elevated nitrate levels in particular can contribute to stress, loss of colour, and susceptibility to disease. In a well-stocked community tank, more frequent or larger water changes may be necessary to keep nitrate in check.

Good oxygenation is important for this species. Its active lifestyle and preference for flowing water mean it has a higher oxygen demand than many sedentary catfish. Ensure adequate surface agitation through the filter outlet or an additional airstone, particularly in warmer weather when dissolved oxygen levels naturally fall.

Filtration and Equipment

A reliable, appropriately rated filter is essential for keeping P. buffei. An external canister filter is the best choice for tanks of 120 litres and above, as it provides excellent biological and mechanical filtration capacity while allowing you to direct the return flow to create the gentle current this species appreciates. Position the spray bar or outlet along the back or side wall to generate a steady, linear flow across the length of the tank.

If using an internal filter or hang-on-back model, ensure it is rated for the full volume of the tank and ideally provides some directional flow. Supplementing with a small powerhead or wavemaker set to low output can help create the current P. buffei enjoys, particularly in longer tanks where a single filter outlet may not generate sufficient flow across the entire swimming area.

Lighting should be moderate rather than intense. P. buffei is not a shade-obligate species, but it is noticeably more relaxed under subdued or dappled lighting. If you are growing live plants that require stronger light, floating plants will help shade the open water column and make the catfish more comfortable. A timer-controlled lighting schedule of 8-10 hours per day is standard.

A heater with a reliable thermostat is necessary in most climates to maintain the 23-27 °C range. Use a heater guard if the fish have a tendency to rest near or against the heater element, though P. buffei is less prone to this than many bottom-dwelling catfish species.

As mentioned under tank setup, a tight-fitting lid or cover glass is non-negotiable. Even small gaps around filter inlets, heater cables, or airline tubing should be blocked or covered.

Diet and Feeding

Pareutropius buffei is an omnivore with a strong inclination toward carnivorous foods. In the wild, it feeds primarily on small invertebrates, insect larvae, zooplankton, and other small organisms carried in the current. In the aquarium, it is generally an eager and unproblematic feeder once settled, accepting a wide range of prepared and live foods.

A high-quality flake or small pellet food formulated for omnivorous tropical fish makes a suitable staple diet. Choose a product with a high protein content and avoid foods that are predominantly cereal or plant-based filler. Small sinking granules or slow-sinking micro pellets work well, as P. buffei feeds in the water column and will readily intercept food as it drifts downward. It will also take food from the surface, though it is less inclined to feed at the very top than some mid-water species.

Regular supplementation with frozen or live foods is strongly recommended and will bring out the best colour and condition in this species. Frozen bloodworm, daphnia, brine shrimp, and mosquito larvae are all readily accepted. Live foods such as grindal worms, white worms, and live brine shrimp are excellent for conditioning and encouraging natural feeding behaviour. Variety is key – aim to offer at least two or three different food types across the week rather than relying on a single staple.

Feed small amounts two to three times per day rather than one large feeding. P. buffei has a relatively fast metabolism in keeping with its active lifestyle, and it does better with frequent, modest meals. Observe the shoal at feeding time to ensure all individuals are eating. Occasionally, newly introduced or stressed individuals may be reluctant to feed at first, and in these cases, offering live or frozen foods in a dimly lit tank can help encourage them.

Avoid overfeeding, as uneaten food will degrade water quality quickly. Remove any food that has not been consumed within a few minutes, particularly if it has sunk to the substrate where P. buffei is unlikely to retrieve it.

Behaviour and Temperament

The behaviour of Pareutropius buffei is arguably its greatest appeal, and it is also the area where the most critical care requirements lie. This is an obligate schooling species. In the wild, it forms large shoals that move together through the water column, and this social structure is not optional in captivity. A minimum group of six individuals is essential, and groups of eight to twelve or more are preferable. In smaller numbers, P. buffei becomes visibly stressed, spending much of its time hiding, darting erratically when disturbed, refusing food, and losing colour. Solitary specimens or pairs almost invariably decline and die prematurely.

When kept in an appropriate group, the transformation is remarkable. The shoal moves together through the open water in a coordinated, flowing formation, often orientating against the current. They are active throughout the day, and their constant, graceful movement is mesmerising to watch. The group provides each individual with a sense of security, and well-established shoals are bold, confident, and will readily approach the front glass at feeding time.

P. buffei is a peaceful species that shows no aggression toward tank mates or conspecifics. There may be minor chasing or jostling within the group, particularly during feeding, but this is normal social interaction and does not cause harm. The species is not territorial and does not defend a particular area of the tank.

One important behavioural note for new keepers: P. buffei can be quite skittish during the first few days or weeks after being introduced to a new aquarium. This is normal. Avoid sudden movements near the tank, loud noises, and abrupt changes in lighting during the settling-in period. Keeping the lights dim and ensuring the group size is adequate will help the fish adjust more quickly. Once settled, they become much more relaxed.

Despite being catfish, P. buffei is not nocturnal. It is most active during daylight hours and rests at night, often hovering in a quiet area of the tank or drifting gently in a loose group. This diurnal activity pattern makes it far more rewarding to keep than many catfish species that only emerge after lights out.

Tank Mates

Pareutropius buffei is an excellent community fish that coexists peacefully with a wide range of similarly sized, non-aggressive species. When choosing tank mates, consider species that share its preference for moderate flow, are too large to be eaten (very small fish and fry may be at risk), and will not outcompete it for food or harass it. P. buffei occupies the middle-to-upper water column, so bottom-dwelling species make particularly good companions as they utilise a different zone of the tank. For an African biotope, pairing it with other West African species is both aesthetically and ecologically appropriate.

Good tank mates

• Congo Tetra – A similarly sized, peaceful West African schooling fish that occupies the same water column and thrives in identical conditions.
• African Red-eye Tetra – Another robust West African tetra that schools well and appreciates moderate current.
• Kribensis – A peaceful West African dwarf cichlid that stays near the bottom and generally ignores midwater swimmers, though pairs may become territorial when breeding.
• Upside-down Catfish – A small, peaceful Synodontis species from the same geographic region that occupies a different niche in the tank.
• Bristlenose Pleco – A hardy bottom-dwelling algae eater that stays out of the way and does not compete for the same food or space.
• Corydoras sterbai – Peaceful bottom-dwelling catfish that complement P. buffei by occupying the substrate level; also enjoy moderate current.
• Cherry Barb – A small, gentle barb that is peaceful enough to coexist without causing stress or fin-nipping.
• Harlequin Rasbora – A calm, small schooling fish that does well in similar water parameters and adds colour to the mid-water zone.

Fish to avoid

• Oscar – Far too large and predatory; would view P. buffei as food.
• Tiger Barb – Notorious fin-nipper that can stress and harass schooling catfish, particularly their trailing fins.
• Malawi/Mbuna Cichlids – Aggressive, territorial, and require hard, alkaline water that is unsuitable for P. buffei.
• Red-tail Catfish – A massive predatory catfish entirely incompatible by size and temperament.
• Convict Cichlid – Highly territorial and aggressive, especially when breeding, and will bully peaceful midwater species.
• Betta – Prefers still water and may be stressed by the current P. buffei requires; the catfish’s constant activity can also agitate a solitary Betta.
• Green Terror – A large, aggressive New World cichlid that would dominate and harass P. buffei.

Breeding

Breeding Pareutropius buffei in captivity is rarely achieved and poorly documented, earning it a difficulty rating of “Difficult”. While the species is bred commercially in some facilities (often with the aid of hormonal induction), spontaneous spawning in home aquaria is uncommon. That said, understanding the basics of its reproductive biology may help dedicated hobbyists attempt a breeding project.

P. buffei is an egg-scattering species. In the wild, spawning is believed to coincide with seasonal changes in water conditions, particularly the onset of the rainy season, which brings cooler, softer water and increased flow. To simulate these conditions in the aquarium, a large water change with slightly cooler, softer water may help trigger spawning behaviour. Increasing the current slightly and feeding heavily with high-quality live and frozen foods in the weeks leading up to a spawning attempt can also help condition the fish.

Sexing is difficult outside of breeding condition. Gravid females may appear slightly rounder when full of eggs, but the differences are subtle. Maintaining a large group increases the likelihood of having both sexes present. Some breeders report that males may be very slightly more slender and that their dorsal fin may be fractionally more pointed, but these differences are not reliable for casual identification.

If spawning occurs, eggs are scattered freely into the water column and settle on the substrate, plants, or other surfaces. The parents show no parental care and will readily consume their own eggs if given the opportunity. Removing the adults or transferring the eggs to a separate rearing tank is essential. Eggs typically hatch within 24-48 hours, depending on temperature, and the fry are very small, requiring infusoria or liquid fry food initially, followed by newly hatched brine shrimp nauplii as they grow.

Given the difficulty of breeding, most specimens in the hobby are wild-caught. Hobbyists interested in captive breeding would do well to start with a large group of at least ten to twelve individuals in a spacious tank, condition them heavily, and attempt to replicate seasonal triggers. Patience and a degree of luck are both required.

Common Diseases

Pareutropius buffei is a reasonably hardy species when kept in appropriate conditions, but like all aquarium fish, it is susceptible to several common diseases, particularly when stressed by poor water quality, inadequate group size, or improper diet.

White spot disease (Ichthyophthirius multifiliis) is perhaps the most common ailment encountered. It presents as small white cysts on the body and fins and is typically triggered by temperature fluctuations or the introduction of infected fish. P. buffei is a scaleless fish in practical terms – while it does possess very fine, embedded scales, it is more sensitive to certain medications than heavily scaled species. Use ich treatments at half the recommended dose or opt for the heat method (gradually raising the temperature to 30 °C for 10-14 days) combined with increased aeration.

Bacterial infections, including fin rot and skin ulcers, can occur in fish kept in poor water conditions or those that have sustained physical injuries from jumping or collisions. Maintaining excellent water quality through regular water changes is the best prevention. If bacterial infection is suspected, broad-spectrum antibacterial treatments formulated for sensitive fish should be used cautiously.

Fungal infections may appear as white, cotton-like growths on the body or fins, often secondary to a wound or other underlying condition. Treatment with a mild antifungal agent is usually effective, but addressing the root cause – typically water quality or physical trauma – is essential to prevent recurrence.

Internal parasites can be an issue with wild-caught specimens. Signs include weight loss despite normal feeding, white or stringy faeces, and a general failure to thrive. Anti-parasitic foods or treatments containing praziquantel or levamisole can be effective, though as with all medications, dose conservatively given the species’ sensitivity.

The most important disease prevention measure for P. buffei is maintaining the conditions outlined in this guide: stable, clean water; an adequate group size; a varied, nutritious diet; and a stress-free environment. A fish that is well kept is far less likely to fall ill than one that is chronically stressed by loneliness, poor water, or aggressive tank mates.

FAQs

Is Pareutropius buffei the same as Pareutropius debauwi?

No, they are two distinct species, though they are extremely closely related and frequently confused in the aquarium trade. The fish most commonly sold as “African Glass Catfish” or “Debauwi Catfish” in shops is almost always P. buffei, not the true P. debauwi. The latter is rarely imported. The two species look very similar, and their care requirements overlap significantly, but they can be distinguished by subtle morphological differences including body depth, stripe intensity, and fin shape. If you have purchased a fish labelled as either species from a typical aquarium retailer, it is overwhelmingly likely to be P. buffei.

How many Three-striped African Glass Catfish should I keep together?

A minimum of six is the absolute baseline, but eight to twelve or more is strongly recommended. This is a genuinely obligate schooling species, not one that merely “prefers” company. Individuals kept alone or in groups of two or three will be chronically stressed, hide constantly, refuse food, lose colour, and typically die well before their expected lifespan. The larger the group, the more confident and natural their behaviour will be. If you cannot accommodate at least six, this is not the right species for your setup.

Will this species eat small fish or shrimp?

P. buffei has a small mouth but is an opportunistic feeder. It is unlikely to bother any fish too large to swallow, but very small fish fry and tiny shrimp (such as newly born cherry shrimp) may be consumed. Adult dwarf shrimp are generally safe, though there is always some risk with any omnivorous fish. If you keep a breeding shrimp colony, provide plenty of dense moss and hiding places to give shrimplets a refuge.

Why is my Three-striped African Glass Catfish hiding all the time?

The most common reason is an insufficient group size. If you have fewer than six individuals, the fish will be stressed and spend most of their time hiding rather than schooling in the open. Other causes include overly bright lighting without shade, a lack of current, aggressive tank mates, or the fish simply being newly introduced and still settling in. Address group size first, then check lighting, flow, and tank mate compatibility.

Can I keep this species in a planted tank?

Absolutely. P. buffei does well in planted aquaria provided there is sufficient open swimming space in the middle-to-upper water column. Avoid planting so densely that the midwater is congested with stems. Focus plantings around the edges and back of the tank, and use floating plants to provide shade. Hardy, low-maintenance species such as Anubias, Java Fern, Vallisneria, and Bolbitis are all excellent choices that tolerate the moderate current this species enjoys.

Related Guides

• Debauwi Catfish (Pareutropius debauwi) – The closely related and frequently confused sister species, with similar but not identical care requirements.
• Asian Glass Catfish (Kryptopterus vitreolus) – Another transparent, schooling catfish from a different continent, offering an interesting comparison in care and behaviour.
• Congo Tetra – An ideal West African tank mate that shares similar water and setup requirements.
• Upside-down Catfish (Synodontis nigriventris) – A compatible West African catfish for those building an African biotope community.
• Kribensis (Pelvicachromis pulcher) – A popular West African dwarf cichlid that pairs well with P. buffei in a biotope or community setting.