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Banjo Catfish Care Guide – Tank Setup, Feeding and Breeding

ByTankora

Quick summary

The Banjo Catfish is an easy-to-keep, peaceful nocturnal bottom-dweller that’s great for beginners wanting an unusual, low-maintenance fish, though its shy, buried-in-sand habits mean you’ll rarely see it and it needs a soft sand substrate plus calm tank mates that won’t outcompete it for food. It’s not a good fit if you want an active, visible centerpiece fish or plan to keep it with boisterous, aggressive, or large predatory species.

🐠 Build a tank around this fish

In this guide:

Introduction

The Banjo Catfish (Bunocephalus coracoideus) is one of the most uniquely shaped freshwater fish available in the aquarium hobby. Named for its remarkable resemblance to a banjo – with a broad, flattened head tapering into a long, slender tail – this South American catfish has captivated fishkeepers for decades. Its extraordinary camouflage abilities allow it to virtually disappear into sandy or fine gravel substrates, making it a fascinating addition to community aquariums for those who appreciate the more unusual and cryptic species available.

Belonging to the family Aspredinidae, commonly known as the banjo catfish family, Bunocephalus coracoideus is the most frequently encountered member of this group in the aquarium trade. Despite its unusual appearance, this species is relatively straightforward to care for, making it suitable for aquarists with at least a basic level of experience. Its peaceful temperament, modest size, and undemanding nature mean it can fit into a wide variety of community setups, though its nocturnal habits and exceptional camouflage mean that keepers may go days without spotting their fish unless they know exactly where to look.

While the Banjo Catfish is unlikely to become the centrepiece of a display aquarium, it offers something arguably more rewarding: a genuinely interesting behavioural profile. Watching one of these fish settle into the substrate, rearranging sand grains over its body until it becomes practically invisible, is a memorable experience. For aquarists seeking a low-maintenance, peaceful bottom-dweller with genuine character, the Banjo Catfish is an excellent choice that rewards patience and careful observation.

Quick Stats

Scientific name Bunocephalus coracoideus
Common names Banjo Catfish, Banjo Cat, Guitarrita
Family Aspredinidae
Origin South America – Amazon River basin, including Bolivia, Brazil, Peru, Ecuador, and Uruguay
Adult size 12-15 cm (5-6 inches)
Lifespan 5-8 years
Difficulty Easy
Breeding difficulty Moderate
Temperature 22-28 °C
pH range 5.5-7.5
General hardness (GH) 2-15 dGH
Carbonate hardness (KH) 2-10 dKH
Minimum tank size 75 litres
Conservation status Not Evaluated

Appearance

The Banjo Catfish possesses one of the most distinctive body plans found in any freshwater aquarium fish. Its head is broad, flat, and somewhat triangular when viewed from above, while its body tapers dramatically into a long, narrow caudal peduncle and tail. This combination produces the characteristic banjo or guitar silhouette from which the common name derives. The entire body is dorsoventrally compressed – meaning it is flattened from top to bottom – which is a key adaptation for life on the substrate of slow-moving waterways.

The skin of the Banjo Catfish is covered in numerous small tubercles and rough projections that give it a coarse, textured appearance. This rugose skin is not merely decorative; it plays a crucial role in camouflage by breaking up the fish’s outline and mimicking the appearance of leaf litter, wood debris, or rough substrate. The coloration is typically dark brown to tan, often with irregular darker mottling and lighter patches that further enhance the fish’s ability to blend with its surroundings. Some specimens display a slightly reddish or olive tint, depending on their diet and the substrate colour in their environment.

The eyes are small and positioned on the upper surface of the head, typical of a benthic species that spends its life looking upward from the bottom. The mouth is subterminal and relatively wide, suited for scooping up food items from the substrate. Like other catfish, Bunocephalus coracoideus possesses barbels around the mouth – typically three pairs – which are used to detect food by touch and chemical sensation in dark or turbid conditions. The pectoral fins are broad and somewhat splayed, further adding to the flat profile, while the dorsal fin is small and positioned far forward on the body. The caudal fin is rounded and relatively modest in size.

Sexual dimorphism in Banjo Catfish is subtle but discernible in mature specimens. Females tend to be slightly larger and noticeably wider when viewed from above, particularly when gravid with eggs. Males are typically slimmer with a slightly more elongated body shape. However, these differences are best observed when comparing multiple adult fish side by side, as individual variation can make sexing a single specimen quite challenging.

Natural Habitat

Bunocephalus coracoideus is native to a vast area of South America, with its range encompassing significant portions of the Amazon River basin and extending into several surrounding river systems. It has been recorded in Bolivia, Brazil, Peru, Ecuador, and Uruguay, inhabiting a diverse array of freshwater environments across this enormous geographical range. This broad distribution reflects the species’ adaptability and helps explain why it is relatively tolerant of varying water conditions in captivity.

In the wild, Banjo Catfish are predominantly found in slow-moving or still waters, including backwater pools, oxbow lakes, flooded forest areas, and the calm margins of rivers and streams. They show a strong preference for areas with soft substrates composed of sand, fine mud, or decaying leaf litter, into which they can partially or fully bury themselves. The leaf litter zones of Amazonian waterways are particularly important habitats, as the decomposing organic matter provides both camouflage and a rich source of food in the form of invertebrates, insect larvae, and detritus.

The waters in their natural habitat are typically soft and slightly acidic, often stained a dark tea colour by tannins leaching from decaying vegetation. Light levels beneath the forest canopy and through tannin-stained water are generally low, which suits the Banjo Catfish’s nocturnal lifestyle perfectly. Water temperatures in their native range fluctuate seasonally but generally remain warm, typically between 22 and 28 degrees Celsius. During the wet season, many of their habitats expand dramatically as floodwaters inundate the surrounding forest, providing access to new feeding grounds and triggering reproductive activity in many species.

The Banjo Catfish shares its habitat with a tremendous diversity of other fish species, including numerous other catfish, characins, cichlids, and various other groups. Its camouflage strategy serves primarily as defence against predation, as the fish is essentially defenceless against larger predators when detected. By remaining motionless and buried in substrate during daylight hours, the Banjo Catfish avoids the attention of visual predators and emerges to feed only under the cover of darkness.

Tank Size and Setup

A minimum tank size of 75 litres is recommended for a single Banjo Catfish or a small group of two to three individuals. While these fish are not particularly active swimmers, they do benefit from a reasonable amount of floor space, and a larger footprint is more valuable than additional depth. A tank measuring at least 60 cm in length provides adequate room for foraging and allows for the creation of multiple hiding spots. If you wish to keep a larger group or house them in a community setting with other bottom-dwelling species, aim for 120 litres or more to ensure that all inhabitants have sufficient substrate territory.

Substrate choice is arguably the single most important aspect of setting up a tank for Banjo Catfish. Fine sand is the ideal substrate, as it allows the fish to exhibit their natural burying behaviour. Play sand, pool filter sand, or purpose-made aquarium sand in a natural tan or brown colour works exceptionally well. Avoid sharp or coarse substrates such as rough gravel, crushed coral, or substrates with jagged edges, as these can damage the fish’s soft underside and delicate barbels. A substrate depth of at least 3-5 cm gives the catfish enough material to partially bury itself comfortably.

The aquascape should include plenty of cover and visual barriers. Driftwood pieces, particularly flat or branching varieties, provide excellent shelter and also leach beneficial tannins into the water, replicating the blackwater conditions of the fish’s natural habitat. Dried leaf litter – such as Indian almond leaves, oak leaves, or beech leaves – is an outstanding addition to a Banjo Catfish aquarium. Not only does it provide additional camouflage opportunities, but it also supports a population of microfauna that the catfish can graze upon. Smooth river rocks and clay pots or tubes can also serve as hiding places.

Live plants are compatible with Banjo Catfish, as these fish do not disturb or consume vegetation. Low-light species such as Java fern, Anubias, Java moss, and various Cryptocoryne species work particularly well in a Banjo Catfish setup. Floating plants are also beneficial, as they dim the lighting and create the subdued atmosphere that these nocturnal fish prefer. Avoid excessively bright lighting, or provide sufficient shade through floating plants and overhead cover to ensure the fish feel secure enough to emerge and feed.

A secure lid is advisable, as although Banjo Catfish are not known as prolific jumpers, they can occasionally make unexpected nocturnal excursions, particularly when first introduced to a new tank or if water quality deteriorates. Ensuring that there are no gaps around filter intakes, heater cables, or other equipment openings is a sensible precaution.

Water Parameters

Banjo Catfish are tolerant of a reasonably broad range of water conditions, which is one of the factors that makes them relatively easy to keep. However, they thrive best when conditions approximate their natural soft, slightly acidic habitat. Stability is more important than achieving any specific number – avoid sudden fluctuations in temperature, pH, or hardness, as these can stress the fish and leave it vulnerable to disease.

Temperature 22-28 °C
pH 5.5-7.5
General hardness (GH) 2-15 dGH
Carbonate hardness (KH) 2-10 dKH
Ammonia 0 ppm
Nitrite 0 ppm
Nitrate Below 20 ppm

While the Banjo Catfish can adapt to moderately hard water, it generally does best in soft to medium-hard conditions. If your tap water is very hard or alkaline, consider blending it with reverse osmosis (RO) water to bring the parameters into a more suitable range. The addition of Indian almond leaves, alder cones, or peat filtration can help naturally lower pH and soften the water while also releasing tannins that create the blackwater conditions these fish appreciate.

Regular water changes of 20-30% weekly are recommended to maintain water quality and keep nitrate levels in check. Because Banjo Catfish spend their lives in direct contact with the substrate, they are particularly susceptible to problems caused by poor substrate hygiene. Gently vacuuming the surface of the sand during water changes – taking care not to disturb any buried fish – helps prevent the build-up of harmful substances in the substrate layer where these fish live.

Filtration and Equipment

A reliable filtration system capable of handling the tank’s bioload is essential, but flow rate is an important consideration for Banjo Catfish. These fish originate from slow-moving or still waters and are not strong swimmers. Excessive current can stress them and make it difficult for them to feed comfortably. A hang-on-back filter, internal filter, or canister filter with an adjustable flow rate is ideal. If using a filter that produces strong output, a spray bar or lily pipe can help diffuse the flow and reduce current in the lower levels of the tank where the catfish resides.

Sponge filters are another excellent option, particularly for smaller setups or breeding tanks. They provide gentle biological and mechanical filtration without creating problematic water movement. An additional benefit of sponge filters is that they harbour biofilm and microfauna on their surface, which can provide supplementary food for the catfish.

A submersible heater is necessary to maintain stable tropical temperatures. Position the heater where there is adequate water flow to distribute warmth evenly throughout the tank, and use a separate thermometer to verify the temperature independently of the heater’s built-in thermostat. A heater guard can be worthwhile, although Banjo Catfish are generally not active enough to burn themselves on exposed heating elements in the way that more boisterous species might.

Lighting should be subdued. LED lights with adjustable brightness or a timer that provides a gradual dawn-dusk cycle are ideal. If you keep live plants that require moderate lighting, balance this with ample shade from floating plants and surface cover. Dimmer lighting encourages the Banjo Catfish to be more active and visible during viewing hours, whereas bright, unshaded lighting will cause the fish to remain buried and motionless for extended periods.

An air pump is not strictly necessary if your filtration provides adequate gas exchange, but gentle aeration can be beneficial, particularly in warmer water where dissolved oxygen levels are naturally lower. Ensure that any air stone or bubble output does not create excessive surface agitation directly above the catfish’s preferred resting areas.

Diet and Feeding

Banjo Catfish are omnivorous with a strong inclination towards meaty foods. In the wild, they feed primarily on insect larvae, worms, small crustaceans, and organic detritus found in and around the substrate and leaf litter. In captivity, they accept a varied diet readily, though their nocturnal feeding habits and slow eating style require some thoughtful management, particularly in community tanks with more assertive feeders.

Feed Banjo Catfish after lights-out to ensure they receive adequate nutrition. These fish are most active in darkness and will emerge from their hiding spots to forage once the tank is dark and quiet. Sinking foods are essential, as the Banjo Catfish will not swim to the surface to feed. High-quality sinking pellets or wafers designed for bottom-dwelling catfish provide a good staple diet. Supplement this with frozen or live foods such as bloodworms, tubifex worms, brine shrimp, daphnia, and blackworms, which are all eagerly consumed.

Live foods are particularly beneficial and can encourage more natural foraging behaviour. Blackworms are an outstanding food choice, as they can survive in the substrate for extended periods, allowing the catfish to hunt and consume them at its own pace throughout the night. This approach more closely mimics natural feeding patterns than dropping a portion of food at a specific time. Frozen bloodworms and brine shrimp should be thawed before offering and placed directly on the substrate near the fish’s known hiding spots.

Avoid overfeeding, as uneaten food in a sandy substrate can quickly decompose and degrade water quality. Offer only as much food as the fish can consume within a few hours overnight. If you keep Banjo Catfish in a community aquarium, monitor their condition carefully – their sedentary nature and slow feeding style mean they can easily be outcompeted by faster, more active tank mates. A slightly concave belly or visible thinning along the caudal peduncle are signs that the fish is not receiving enough food.

While Banjo Catfish will consume some algae wafers and vegetable-based foods, these should not form the primary component of their diet. A protein-rich diet more closely matches their natural nutritional requirements and will support better health, growth, and colouration.

Behaviour and Temperament

The Banjo Catfish is one of the most placid and unobtrusive fish available in the aquarium hobby. Its behavioural repertoire centres around two primary activities: remaining perfectly motionless during the day and slowly foraging across the substrate at night. This extreme inactivity during daylight hours is entirely normal and should not be cause for concern. The fish is not sick, stressed, or dead – it is simply behaving exactly as evolution has designed it to.

During the day, Banjo Catfish typically settle into the substrate with a thin layer of sand partially or fully covering their bodies. They may also wedge themselves beneath driftwood, rocks, or leaf litter. Their camouflage is so effective that many keepers report losing track of their fish for days or even weeks at a time, only to rediscover it during tank maintenance or a late-night observation session. This behaviour is perfectly healthy and should be accommodated rather than discouraged. Attempting to disturb or relocate a resting Banjo Catfish causes unnecessary stress.

At night, the Banjo Catfish transforms from a seemingly inanimate lump of substrate into a slow but purposeful forager. It moves across the tank floor using a distinctive shuffling motion, probing the substrate with its barbels in search of food. Its movements are unhurried and methodical, and it may cover a surprising amount of ground over the course of a night. If you wish to observe this behaviour, a dim red or blue LED light can be used without significantly disturbing the fish, as they are less sensitive to these wavelengths.

Banjo Catfish are completely non-aggressive and pose no threat whatsoever to any tank mate, regardless of size. They do not defend territories, do not compete for food aggressively, and will not nip fins or harass other fish. They are largely indifferent to conspecifics and can be kept singly or in groups without issue. In groups, they may occasionally rest in close proximity to one another but do not display obvious social behaviour or hierarchy.

One behaviour worth noting is the Banjo Catfish’s tendency to remain absolutely rigid when handled or disturbed, playing dead rather than attempting to flee. This thanatosis response is a defensive mechanism, but it can be alarming for keepers who mistake it for genuine illness or death. If you need to move a Banjo Catfish, handle it gently and return it to water as quickly as possible. Note that like many catfish, it possesses stiffened pectoral fin spines that can become locked in an extended position and may prick unwary fingers during handling.

Tank Mates

The Banjo Catfish’s utterly peaceful disposition and nocturnal lifestyle make it compatible with a very wide range of community fish. The primary considerations when selecting tank mates are to avoid species that are aggressive, overly boisterous, or large enough to view the catfish as food. Equally important is ensuring that tank mates do not monopolise all available food before the Banjo Catfish has a chance to feed at night. Ideal companions are calm, small to medium-sized species that occupy the middle and upper water column, leaving the substrate zone relatively undisturbed during the day.

Good tank mates

  • Cardinal Tetra – A peaceful, small schooling fish that occupies the mid-water column and will not compete with the Banjo Catfish for food or space.
  • Rummy-nose Tetra – Another gentle schooling species that thrives in similar soft, warm water conditions and keeps to the upper and middle levels of the tank.
  • Corydoras Catfish – Peaceful bottom-dwellers that coexist well with Banjo Catfish, though feeding should be monitored to ensure both species receive enough food.
  • Kuhli Loach – A fellow nocturnal bottom-dweller with a similarly gentle temperament that shares a preference for soft, sandy substrates.
  • Harlequin Rasbora – A peaceful, mid-water schooling species that appreciates the same soft, slightly acidic water conditions.
  • Otocinclus Catfish – Small, docile algae eaters that stay out of the Banjo Catfish’s way and have no competitive overlap in diet.
  • Bolivian Ram – A calm dwarf cichlid from overlapping South American habitats that is generally peaceful towards bottom-dwelling catfish.
  • Cherry Barb – A mild-mannered barb species that is too small and gentle to bother the Banjo Catfish in any way.
  • Amano Shrimp – Large enough to avoid predation by the catfish and beneficial for cleaning up leftover food and algae in the tank.

Fish to avoid

  • Oscar – A large, predatory cichlid that would readily consume a Banjo Catfish or inflict serious injury.
  • Red-tail Catfish – A massive predatory catfish that will eat anything it can fit in its mouth, including smaller catfish species.
  • Tiger Barb – An active, nippy species whose boisterous behaviour and food aggression can stress and outcompete the slow-moving Banjo Catfish.
  • Jack Dempsey – An aggressive cichlid that defends territory vigorously and may attack or kill the defenceless Banjo Catfish.
  • Common Pleco – While not aggressive, its large adult size and vigorous nocturnal activity can physically disturb and stress the Banjo Catfish.
  • African Cichlids – Most African cichlids are too aggressive and territorial and require harder, more alkaline water than the Banjo Catfish prefers.
  • Red-bellied Piranha – An obvious predatory risk that would make short work of a slow, defenceless bottom-dweller.
  • Green Terror – A highly territorial and aggressive cichlid that is incompatible with any small, peaceful species.

Breeding

Breeding Banjo Catfish in captivity is achievable and has been accomplished by a number of hobbyists, though it is not as straightforward as breeding some other common aquarium catfish. Success typically requires conditioning a group of mature adults, providing appropriate environmental triggers, and ensuring optimal water quality and diet in the weeks leading up to spawning attempts.

To prepare for breeding, maintain a group of at least four to six adult Banjo Catfish in a dedicated breeding tank or a suitably spacious community setup. Condition the group with a protein-rich diet of live and frozen foods – blackworms, bloodworms, and brine shrimp are all excellent choices – for several weeks prior to the breeding attempt. Both males and females should be well-fed and in robust health before spawning is attempted.

Spawning in the wild is believed to be triggered by changes associated with the onset of the rainy season, including drops in water temperature, increases in water volume, and changes in water chemistry. In captivity, a large water change of 40-50% using slightly cooler, softer water can simulate these conditions and encourage spawning behaviour. Lowering the water temperature by two to three degrees Celsius during the water change is a commonly used trigger. Some breeders also report success with increasing the frequency of water changes over a period of days to simulate rising water levels.

When ready to spawn, the female scatters adhesive eggs across the substrate, amongst leaf litter, or on flat surfaces such as driftwood and rocks. Clutch sizes are variable but typically range from 100 to over 4,000 eggs, depending on the size and condition of the female. The eggs are small, translucent, and slightly sticky. Parental care is absent in this species – adults may consume eggs if left in the same tank, so removing either the adults or the eggs after spawning is advisable.

Eggs typically hatch within two to three days at temperatures around 25-27 degrees Celsius. The fry are tiny and initially sustain themselves on their yolk sacs. Once free-swimming, they require very small foods such as infusoria, microworms, or commercially available liquid fry foods. As they grow, they can be transitioned to newly hatched brine shrimp and finely crushed sinking foods. Growth is relatively slow, and the fry develop the characteristic flattened body shape within the first few weeks of life. Maintaining excellent water quality with frequent small water changes is critical during the rearing phase, as the fry are sensitive to ammonia and nitrite buildup.

Common Diseases

Banjo Catfish are generally hardy fish that are not particularly prone to specific diseases when kept in clean, well-maintained aquariums. However, like all freshwater fish, they can be affected by a range of common ailments, and their close contact with the substrate makes them somewhat more vulnerable to issues related to poor substrate hygiene.

Bacterial infections are perhaps the most common health concern for Banjo Catfish. These often manifest as reddened patches on the skin, frayed barbels, or open sores, and are typically the result of poor water quality or injuries sustained from sharp substrate materials. Maintaining pristine water conditions and using a smooth, fine sand substrate are the best preventative measures. If bacterial infections do occur, broad-spectrum antibacterial treatments are usually effective, though Banjo Catfish, like many scaleless and thin-skinned catfish, can be sensitive to certain medications – particularly those containing copper or malachite green. Always use medications at half the recommended dose initially and monitor the fish closely for adverse reactions.

Ich (white spot disease) can affect Banjo Catfish, appearing as characteristic white cysts on the skin and fins. Raising the water temperature gradually to 30 degrees Celsius over 48 hours, combined with the addition of aquarium salt at a low concentration (one teaspoon per 20 litres), is often sufficient to treat mild cases. For more severe infestations, ich-specific treatments formulated as safe for scaleless fish should be used with caution.

Fungal infections may occur, particularly on fish that are already weakened by other stressors or that have sustained physical damage. These appear as white or grey cotton-like growths on the skin. Antifungal treatments are generally effective, but again, dose conservatively for this species.

Internal parasites can be an issue, particularly in wild-caught specimens. Signs include weight loss despite regular feeding, a hollow belly, or white, stringy faeces. Antiparasitic treatments containing praziquantel or levamisole are typically safe and effective for catfish. Quarantining new arrivals for two to four weeks before introducing them to an established community tank is strongly recommended to prevent the introduction of parasites and other pathogens.

Perhaps the most insidious health risk for Banjo Catfish is simple starvation. Because they are so inactive and well-camouflaged, it can be difficult to assess their body condition, and their reluctance to compete for food means they can slowly waste away in a busy community tank without the keeper noticing. Regular observation under dim light at night and periodic checks of body condition are essential for long-term health.

FAQs

Is my Banjo Catfish dead or just resting?

This is one of the most common questions asked by new Banjo Catfish keepers, and for good reason. These fish can remain absolutely motionless for hours or even days at a time, often partially buried in sand, and may not respond to gentle prodding. This is completely normal behaviour. If you are concerned, watch the gill area closely for subtle breathing movements, or gently direct a small current of water towards the fish with a turkey baster – a living fish will typically respond with a slight twitch or repositioning. If the fish has a noticeable odour, discolouration, or is floating rather than resting on the substrate, these are signs of actual death.

Can I keep a Banjo Catfish in a tank with gravel instead of sand?

While Banjo Catfish can survive in tanks with fine, smooth gravel, sand is strongly preferred. These fish have a powerful instinct to bury themselves, and coarse or sharp gravel can abrade their soft skin and damage their sensitive barbels over time. If you must use gravel, choose the smoothest, finest variety available and ensure it is free of sharp edges. However, providing even a section of fine sand in the tank will greatly improve the fish’s quality of life and allow it to express its natural behaviours.

How often should I feed my Banjo Catfish?

Feeding every other day is generally sufficient for adult Banjo Catfish, though daily feeding of smaller portions is also acceptable. These are not highly active fish and do not require large amounts of food. The key is to feed after the aquarium lights have been turned off, ensuring that sinking foods reach the substrate where the catfish can find them. Monitor the fish’s body condition over time – a healthy Banjo Catfish should have a gently rounded belly and a smooth, fleshed-out caudal peduncle without visible bone structure.

Will a Banjo Catfish eat my shrimp?

Banjo Catfish are opportunistic feeders with relatively large mouths for their body size, and they are capable of consuming small shrimp, particularly juvenile or dwarf species. Adult Amano shrimp and similarly sized species are generally safe, but small Cherry Shrimp and their young may be at risk, especially during the catfish’s nocturnal foraging. If you keep a breeding colony of dwarf shrimp, it is best to house them separately or accept that some predation may occur.

Can I keep multiple Banjo Catfish together?

Yes, Banjo Catfish are completely non-aggressive towards conspecifics and can be kept in groups without any issues. They do not establish territories or hierarchies and may even rest in close proximity to one another during the day. Keeping a small group of three to five individuals in an appropriately sized tank is a perfectly viable approach and can make for more interesting observation, as you are more likely to spot at least one fish active at any given time during the night.

  • Corydoras Catfish Care Guide – Another popular group of peaceful South American bottom-dwelling catfish that makes excellent companions for Banjo Catfish.
  • Kuhli Loach Care Guide – A fellow nocturnal, substrate-dwelling species with similar care requirements and a gentle temperament.
  • Bristlenose Pleco Care Guide – A manageable-sized pleco species that shares tank space well with Banjo Catfish in community setups.
  • Cardinal Tetra Care Guide – An ideal mid-water companion for Banjo Catfish that thrives in the same soft, acidic water conditions.
  • Bolivian Ram Care Guide – A peaceful dwarf cichlid from overlapping habitats that pairs well with Banjo Catfish in South American biotope aquariums.

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