Red Claw Crayfish

Quick Summary

The Red Claw Crayfish is a large, robust, and fascinating freshwater crustacean – but it is absolutely not a community tank species. It will catch and eat or injure most fish and all shrimp it can get its claws on, and it is best kept in a dedicated crayfish setup with a secure lid, ample hiding spots, and an owner who appreciates these animals on their own terms.

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In this guide:

• Introduction
• Quick Stats
• Appearance
• Natural Habitat
• Tank Size and Setup
• Water Parameters
• Diet and Feeding
• Behaviour and Temperament
• Tank Mates
• Breeding

Introduction

The Red Claw Crayfish (Cherax quadricarinatus) is one of the most impressive freshwater crustaceans available in the aquarium hobby. Originally hailing from the tropical rivers and billabongs of northern Australia and parts of Papua New Guinea, this species has become widely known both as an aquaculture animal farmed for food and as a captivating aquarium inhabitant for keepers who appreciate large invertebrates. Males of the species develop striking red patches on the outer margins of their claws at sexual maturity, which gives the species its common name and makes mature specimens genuinely eye-catching.

However, the Red Claw Crayfish is not the right choice for a typical community aquarium, and it is important to be completely honest about this from the outset. This species will catch and eat or injure most fish and all shrimp that are small enough to grab. It is an opportunistic omnivore with powerful claws, surprising speed when it wants to strike, and a nocturnal hunting instinct that means even fish that seem safe during the day may not survive the night. Slow-moving, bottom-dwelling, or sleeping fish are particularly at risk. Keeping Red Claw Crayfish in a mixed community tank almost always results in dead or injured tank mates.

The ideal setup for Cherax quadricarinatus is a dedicated crayfish tank or a crustacean-only aquarium. Solo keeping is perfectly valid and arguably the simplest approach, as it eliminates any risk of cannibalism or territorial aggression between individuals. Pairs or small groups can be maintained, but only with significant tank space, abundant hiding places, and the understanding that there is always a real risk of aggression, particularly when one individual is freshly moulted and vulnerable. This is a species for keepers who find crayfish behaviour genuinely interesting in its own right, rather than those looking for an unusual addition to a fish community.

With the right setup – a large tank, a secure and escape-proof lid, plenty of caves and shelter, and stable tropical water parameters – the Red Claw Crayfish is a hardy, long-lived, and endlessly entertaining species. They are curious, active (especially at night), and display a wide range of fascinating behaviours including foraging, territory defence, burrowing, and their dramatic moulting cycle. For the right keeper, they are genuinely rewarding animals to maintain.

Appearance

Cherax quadricarinatus is a large, solidly built crayfish with a body plan that will be immediately recognisable to anyone familiar with freshwater crayfish or lobsters. The body is divided into a cephalothorax (the fused head and thorax covered by a smooth carapace) and a muscular, segmented abdomen ending in a broad tail fan. They have two pairs of antennae, multiple pairs of walking legs, and a prominent pair of chelae (claws) at the front.

The base colouration of wild-type specimens is typically a deep blue-green to olive-green, though the exact shade varies between individuals and can be influenced by diet, water chemistry, and mood. The body often displays a mottled pattern with darker and lighter patches across the carapace and abdomen. The joints between body segments and the undersides of the claws may show lighter tones, sometimes tending towards cream or pale blue.

The most distinctive feature, and the one that gives the species its common name, is the bright red patch that develops on the outer margin of each claw in sexually mature males. This red colouration is a soft, fleshy pad that becomes more prominent and vivid as the male grows, and it is reliably the easiest way to distinguish mature males from females. Females lack this red marking entirely or show only a very faint trace of it. In addition to this, males tend to have slightly larger and more robust claws relative to their body size compared with females.

Juveniles are generally duller in colour than adults, often a uniform olive-brown, and the red claw patches do not appear until the animal reaches sexual maturity, typically at around 10-12 cm in body length. After each moult, the new exoskeleton may appear slightly different in shade, and freshly moulted individuals are notably paler and softer until the new shell hardens over the course of several days.

A fully grown adult Red Claw Crayfish is an imposing animal in the aquarium, with males commonly reaching 20-25 cm in total length from the tip of the rostrum to the end of the tail fan. Exceptional specimens, particularly in aquaculture settings with optimal nutrition, have been recorded at close to 30 cm, though this is unusual in home aquaria. They are among the largest freshwater crayfish species commonly kept in captivity.

Natural Habitat

In the wild, Cherax quadricarinatus is native to the freshwater systems of tropical northern Australia, particularly across Queensland and the Northern Territory, as well as parts of southern Papua New Guinea. It inhabits a range of freshwater environments including rivers, creeks, billabongs (oxbow lakes), reservoirs, farm dams, and seasonal waterways. It is notably adaptable and can tolerate a wider range of conditions than many crayfish species, which is one reason it has been so successful in aquaculture and, unfortunately, as an invasive species in regions where it has been introduced outside its native range.

Its natural habitats are characterised by warm tropical temperatures, typically ranging from 22 to 28 degrees Celsius, with seasonal fluctuations. The water is often slightly turbid and rich in organic matter, with substrates consisting of mud, sand, clay, and accumulated leaf litter. The crayfish make use of natural shelters including submerged logs, root tangles, undercut banks, rock crevices, and burrows that they excavate themselves. These hiding spots are essential for protection during the vulnerable moulting period and for females carrying eggs.

The seasonal cycle plays a significant role in the species’ biology. In northern Australia, there is a distinct wet season and dry season. During the wet season, rivers flood and the crayfish disperse into newly inundated floodplain habitats where food is abundant. During the dry season, they may retreat to permanent water bodies or dig burrows to survive in areas where surface water disappears. This adaptability to seasonal extremes is a testament to the species’ resilience and partly explains why it can thrive in a range of aquarium conditions, provided the basics are met.

The pH of natural habitats varies from mildly acidic to mildly alkaline (roughly 6.5 to 8.0), and the water tends to be moderately hard due to dissolved minerals. The presence of calcium in the water and diet is particularly important for all crayfish, as they require it to build and harden their exoskeletons after moulting.

Tank Size and Setup

The Red Claw Crayfish is a large, active animal that requires a spacious aquarium. The absolute minimum tank size for a single adult is 200 litres, and larger is always better, particularly if you intend to keep a pair or a small group. For two individuals, aim for at least 300 litres; for a group of three or four, 400 litres or more is advisable, with careful attention to providing enough territory and hiding spots to reduce aggression.

The tank footprint matters more than the height. Crayfish are benthic animals that spend the vast majority of their time on or near the bottom, so a long, wide tank with a large floor area is far more valuable than a tall, narrow one. A standard 120 cm x 45 cm x 45 cm aquarium (approximately 240 litres) is a good starting point for a single specimen.

Substrate should be sand or fine gravel. These crayfish enjoy digging and rearranging their environment, and a softer substrate allows them to do so without damaging their legs or mouthparts. Avoid sharp-edged substrates such as crushed coral or rough volcanic rock, which could injure a freshly moulted crayfish whose new shell is still soft.

Hiding places are absolutely essential. Provide multiple caves, shelters, and visual barriers using PVC pipes (large diameter, at least 7-10 cm for adults), ceramic pots laid on their sides, stacked slate or flat rocks forming cave-like structures, coconut shells, and pieces of driftwood with hollows or overhangs. If keeping more than one crayfish, you must provide at least one hiding spot per individual, ideally two or more, spread across different areas of the tank so that each animal can establish its own territory. Without adequate shelter, aggression and cannibalism are far more likely, particularly during and after moulting when one individual is soft and defenceless.

Driftwood is a particularly good addition, as the crayfish will graze on the biofilm that develops on its surface and may also rasp at the wood itself. Hardy, well-rooted or weighted-down plants such as Anubias or Java Fern attached to rocks or wood can survive in a crayfish tank, but be aware that Red Claw Crayfish will uproot, shred, and eat most aquatic plants. Delicate or unanchored plants will not last. If you want greenery, floating plants or plants attached to hardscape above the crayfish’s reach are the most practical options.

A secure, tight-fitting lid is absolutely non-negotiable. Red Claw Crayfish are competent and determined climbers. They will exploit airline tubing, heater cables, filter intake pipes, and any gap in the tank lid to haul themselves out of the water. An escaped crayfish can travel surprisingly far across a room and will dehydrate and die if not found promptly. Every opening in the lid, including those for cables, airlines, and filter pipes, must be blocked or covered. Weighted lids or clips are strongly recommended.

Water Parameters

Cherax quadricarinatus is a tropical species and needs consistently warm water in the range of 22 to 28 degrees Celsius. The ideal sweet spot for most keepers is around 24-26 C. Below 20 C, the animal’s metabolism slows significantly, feeding decreases, and prolonged cold exposure can be harmful. Above 30 C, dissolved oxygen levels may drop dangerously low, and heat stress becomes a risk.

A stable pH between 6.5 and 8.0 is suitable, with a mildly alkaline range of 7.0 to 7.5 being ideal. Very soft, acidic water is problematic for crayfish because they need dissolved calcium and minerals to build their exoskeletons after moulting. Moderately hard water (GH 8-12 dGH) is strongly preferred, as it provides the calcium the crayfish requires. If your tap water is very soft, you may need to supplement with a remineraliser or add a source of calcium such as crushed coral, cuttlebone, or calcium-rich rocks to the tank.

Like all aquatic animals, Red Claw Crayfish cannot tolerate ammonia or nitrite at any detectable level. These are toxic and will cause gill damage, stress, and death. The tank must be fully cycled before introducing a crayfish. Nitrate should be kept below 40 ppm through regular water changes, ideally below 20 ppm for optimal health. Crayfish produce a significant amount of waste relative to their body size, particularly after feeding, so diligent maintenance is important.

Good oxygenation is also important. Crayfish extract dissolved oxygen from the water through their gills, and warm water holds less oxygen than cool water. An air stone, spray bar, or surface agitation from the filter output will help maintain adequate oxygen levels, particularly in warmer tanks or during the summer months.

Filtration and Equipment

Red Claw Crayfish are messy animals. They produce a substantial amount of waste, they scatter uneaten food, and they stir up the substrate constantly through their foraging and digging behaviour. A powerful, well-maintained filtration system is essential to keep water quality stable and safe.

An external canister filter rated for the tank’s volume (or ideally somewhat over-rated) is the best choice for most setups. Canister filters provide excellent biological, mechanical, and chemical filtration capacity, and their intake and outflow pipes can be positioned to minimise the crayfish’s ability to interfere with them. Internal filters and hang-on-back filters can work for smaller setups but are more vulnerable to being knocked around, clogged with substrate, or having their intakes blocked by a curious crayfish.

Protect the filter intake with a pre-filter sponge or intake guard. Juvenile crayfish could potentially be drawn into an unprotected intake, and even adults may damage the intake pipe or get a leg caught. Sponge pre-filters also provide additional mechanical filtration and a surface for beneficial bacteria.

A reliable aquarium heater is necessary to maintain tropical temperatures. Use a heater guard or position the heater where the crayfish cannot directly climb on it or knock it loose. An unguarded glass heater is at risk of being broken by a large, clumsy crayfish, which could cause serious burns to the animal or an electrical hazard. Titanium or plastic-cased heaters are safer alternatives, or use an external inline heater connected to the canister filter circuit, which keeps the heater out of the tank entirely.

Standard aquarium lighting is fine. Red Claw Crayfish are primarily crepuscular and nocturnal, so they do not require any special lighting. Moderate lighting that supports any live plants in the tank and allows you to observe the crayfish is sufficient. A period of darkness at night is important, as this is when the crayfish will be most active.

As mentioned above, an air stone or additional surface agitation is recommended to maintain good dissolved oxygen levels, particularly during the warmer months or in densely stocked setups.

Diet and Feeding

Cherax quadricarinatus is an omnivorous scavenger with a broad and undemanding diet. In the wild, it feeds on decomposing plant matter, leaf litter, algae, biofilm, aquatic invertebrates, insect larvae, small crustaceans, fish carrion, and essentially anything organic it can find or catch. In captivity, providing a varied diet is straightforward and one of the more enjoyable aspects of keeping this species.

A good staple diet can be built around high-quality sinking pellets or wafers designed for crayfish, shrimp, or bottom-feeding fish. Look for products with a balanced mix of protein and plant matter. Algae wafers, spirulina wafers, and shrimp pellets all work well as part of the rotation.

Supplement the staple diet with a variety of fresh and blanched vegetables. Pieces of blanched courgette (zucchini), cucumber, spinach, kale, peas (shelled), carrot, and sweet potato are all readily accepted and provide essential vitamins and fibre. Leaf litter – dried Indian almond leaves, oak leaves, or beech leaves – is an excellent addition, as the crayfish will graze on both the leaves themselves and the beneficial biofilm and microorganisms that colonise them as they decompose.

Protein sources should be offered regularly but not excessively. Small pieces of raw fish, prawn, mussel, earthworm, or bloodworm (frozen or live) are all good choices. Avoid processed meats, fatty foods, or anything with added salt or seasoning. Protein is particularly important in the lead-up to and recovery from moulting, when the animal is building new tissue and exoskeleton.

Calcium supplementation is critical for crayfish health. Without adequate calcium, moulting problems can occur, which are often fatal. Provide a piece of cuttlebone (the type sold for pet birds, with any metal clips removed) in the tank at all times. The crayfish will rasp at it as needed. Calcium-rich foods such as shrimp with shells, snail shells, and mineral-enriched pellets also help. If your water is very soft, consider adding a calcium supplement to the water itself.

Feed once daily or every other day, offering an amount the crayfish can consume within a few hours. Remove any uneaten food the next morning to prevent it from fouling the water. Crayfish are opportunistic and will overeat if given the chance, but their waste output increases proportionally, so moderate feeding and prompt clean-up are important for water quality.

Behaviour and Temperament

Red Claw Crayfish are territorial, opportunistic, and primarily nocturnal animals. During the day, they tend to rest in or near their chosen hiding spot, though they may emerge for food or to investigate disturbances. At night, they become much more active, patrolling their territory, foraging across the substrate, climbing on hardscape, and interacting (often aggressively) with any other crayfish in the tank.

They are curious and will investigate anything new in their environment, including your hands during tank maintenance. While their claws can give a noticeable pinch, they are not generally aggressive towards humans and handling is possible with care, though it is best kept to a minimum to avoid stressing the animal.

Aggression and cannibalism are genuine risks when keeping multiple Red Claw Crayfish together. These are not social animals in any meaningful sense. In a large tank with abundant hiding places and visual barriers, two or more individuals may coexist, but there will be periodic confrontations, and the risk of serious injury or death is always present. The most dangerous period is immediately after moulting. When a crayfish moults, its new exoskeleton is soft and offers no protection for several days. During this time, the moulted individual is extremely vulnerable and will hide. If another crayfish finds it, it may attack and eat the defenceless animal. This is not a rare occurrence – it is normal crayfish behaviour.

If you choose to keep more than one, provide the largest tank possible, ensure there are more hiding spots than crayfish, and accept that losses are possible despite your best efforts. Keeping a single specimen is the simplest and most humane approach for most hobbyists.

Red Claw Crayfish are also accomplished escape artists. They can and will climb filter pipes, heater cables, airline tubing, silicone seams, and the corners of aquaria to reach the top of the tank. If there is any gap in the lid, they will find it. Escapes typically happen at night when the crayfish is most active. An escaped crayfish on a dry floor will dehydrate within hours and die, so a truly secure lid is not optional.

Moulting is a regular and dramatic event. The crayfish stops eating for a day or two before the moult, then splits its old exoskeleton and wriggles free, leaving behind a perfect, hollow replica of itself. The old exoskeleton should be left in the tank, as the crayfish will consume it over the following days to reclaim the calcium and minerals it contains. After moulting, the crayfish will hide and refuse food until its new shell hardens, which typically takes three to seven days depending on temperature and calcium availability.

Tank Mates

The Red Claw Crayfish is genuinely incompatible with the vast majority of common aquarium inhabitants. This needs to be stated plainly: it will catch and eat or injure most fish, all ornamental shrimp, and most snails that are small enough to overpower. It is an efficient nocturnal predator and scavenger with powerful claws and surprising speed. Fish that rest on the bottom at night, slow swimmers, long-finned species, and anything small enough to grab are at serious risk. Even fast mid-water fish are not truly safe, as a crayfish can snatch a sleeping fish from a resting spot in the dark. The recommended approach is a dedicated crayfish or crustacean-only setup.

If you are determined to try tank mates, only consider large, fast, robust species that occupy the upper water column and do not rest on the bottom. Even then, losses are possible and should be expected rather than treated as surprises. Never house Red Claw Crayfish with any species you are not prepared to lose.

Good tank mates

• Giant Danio – Large, extremely fast, and occupies the upper water column, making it harder for the crayfish to catch.
• Silver Dollar – A large, deep-bodied, fast-swimming species that stays in the mid to upper tank and is generally too large and quick to be caught.
• Tinfoil Barb – A very large, fast barb that occupies the mid to upper water column, though it requires a very large tank in its own right.
• Buenos Aires Tetra – A larger, robust tetra that is fast-moving and tends to stay in the mid-water, though smaller individuals could still be at risk.
• Australian Rainbowfish – Fast, active mid-water swimmers that are geographically appropriate and generally stay out of claw range.
• Blue Acara – A robust, moderately sized cichlid that can hold its own, though mutual aggression is possible and close monitoring is needed.

Fish to avoid

• Neon Tetra – Far too small and slow; will be caught and eaten quickly, particularly at night.
• Corydoras Catfish – Bottom-dwelling and slow-moving, making them extremely easy prey for the crayfish.
• Bristlenose Pleco – Rests on the bottom and on surfaces at night, placing it directly in the crayfish’s hunting zone.
• Cherry Shrimp – Will be eaten immediately and without exception; all ornamental shrimp are entirely incompatible.
• Amano Shrimp – Despite being larger than Cherry Shrimp, still easy prey for a Red Claw Crayfish.
• Betta – Slow-moving with long fins, making it an easy target; will almost certainly be caught and killed.
• Mystery Snail – Large enough to seem safe but will be attacked, flipped, and eaten by the crayfish given time.
• Guppy – Small, slow, and bottom-resting at night; completely unsuitable and will be eaten.

Breeding

Breeding Red Claw Crayfish in captivity is achievable and does not require highly specialised conditions, though it does demand a large tank, careful management, and the ability to house growing juveniles separately. It is rated as moderate difficulty primarily because of the space requirements and the aggression risks involved in keeping a male and female together.

Sexing adult Red Claw Crayfish is straightforward. Mature males develop the distinctive red patches on the outer margins of their claws, which females lack. Males also tend to be larger overall with proportionally bigger claws. Additionally, the genital openings differ in position: males have gonopores at the base of the fifth pair of walking legs, while females have them at the base of the third pair. In females, the underside of the tail is broader and the pleopods (small swimming legs under the abdomen) are larger, as they are used to carry and aerate eggs.

To breed, maintain a pair in a large tank (at least 300 litres) at temperatures towards the warmer end of their range, around 26-28 C, with good water quality and a varied, protein-rich diet. Provide the female with multiple secure hiding spots, as the male may become aggressive during and after mating. Mating involves the male flipping the female onto her back and depositing a spermatophore. The female then retreats to a sheltered spot and extrudes her eggs, attaching them to the pleopods under her tail with a sticky substance. She will carry the eggs in this position – known as being “berried” – for four to six weeks, constantly fanning them with her pleopods to provide oxygenation and prevent fungal growth.

A single clutch can range from 100 to over 1,000 eggs depending on the size and condition of the female. During the brooding period, the female will be reclusive and may eat less, but she should still be offered food near her hiding spot. Avoid disturbing her unnecessarily.

The eggs hatch into miniature crayfish that cling to the mother’s pleopods for a further one to two weeks before detaching and becoming independent. Once the juveniles are free-living, they are extremely vulnerable to cannibalism from both the adults and each other. Separating the juveniles from the adults is essential if you want any to survive. A dedicated rearing tank with many hiding spots – crumpled plastic mesh, piles of small PVC pipe offcuts, dense clumps of Java Moss – will give the juveniles the best chance. Feed them finely crushed pellets, blanched vegetable matter, and powdered spirulina. Even with ample hiding spots, some losses to sibling cannibalism are normal, particularly as the juveniles grow and begin to moult at different times.

Be prepared for potentially large numbers of offspring and have a plan for rehoming them. Red Claw Crayfish grow quickly in warm water with good food, and you will need significant tank space or willing recipients before the juveniles begin to outgrow their rearing setup.

Common Diseases

Red Claw Crayfish are generally hardy animals when kept in appropriate conditions, but they are susceptible to a number of health issues, many of which are related to water quality, diet, or the moulting process.

Moult death (failed moult) is the single most common cause of death in captive crayfish. This occurs when the animal is unable to fully extract itself from its old exoskeleton, often because of insufficient calcium in the diet or water, or because the animal is weakened by poor water quality or stress. A crayfish stuck in a failed moult will typically die. Prevention is far more effective than treatment: ensure adequate calcium through cuttlebone, mineral supplements, and moderately hard water, and maintain excellent water quality at all times.

Shell rot or shell disease presents as dark spots, pitting, or soft patches on the exoskeleton. It is caused by bacterial or fungal infection, often secondary to physical damage, poor water quality, or a weakened immune system. Improving water quality is the first step. Mild cases may resolve after the next moult, as the animal sheds the damaged exoskeleton and grows a new one. Severe cases can be treated with aquarium-safe antifungal or antibacterial products, but prevention through good husbandry is always preferable.

Bacterial infections can affect crayfish that are stressed, injured, or kept in poor water conditions. Symptoms include lethargy, loss of appetite, discolouration, cloudy or swollen joints, and a general failure to thrive. Again, water quality is the foundation of prevention. Quarantine new animals before introducing them to an established tank.

Parasites are relatively uncommon in captive-bred Red Claw Crayfish but can be introduced with wild-caught specimens or through live food. Temnocephala flatworms are a known commensal (and sometimes parasitic) organism found on Australian crayfish. They appear as small, translucent worms on the crayfish’s body or gills. In low numbers, they are generally harmless and will be shed with the old exoskeleton during moulting, but heavy infestations can impair gill function.

Crayfish plague (Aphanomyces astaci) is a devastating oomycete pathogen that has decimated native crayfish populations in Europe. While Cherax quadricarinatus is not the primary carrier species (that dubious honour belongs to North American Procambarus and Orconectes species), it is good practice to be aware of biosecurity and never release aquarium crayfish or their water into natural waterways.

Copper is highly toxic to all crayfish and invertebrates. Never use copper-based medications in a tank containing Red Claw Crayfish or any other crustaceans. Always check the ingredients of any aquarium treatment before use.

FAQs

Can I keep a Red Claw Crayfish in a community tank with fish?

No, the Red Claw Crayfish is not a suitable community tank species. It will catch and eat or injure most fish and all shrimp it can get its claws on, especially at night when it actively hunts. Slow-moving, bottom-dwelling, or sleeping fish are particularly at risk. A dedicated crayfish tank or crustacean-only aquarium is strongly recommended.

How can I tell the difference between male and female Red Claw Crayfish?

Sexually mature males develop a distinctive bright red patch on the outer margin of each claw, which is the feature that gives the species its common name. Females lack this red marking entirely or show only a very faint trace of it. Males also tend to have slightly larger and more robust claws relative to their body size compared with females. These differences become apparent once the crayfish reaches around 10-12 cm in body length.

What size tank do I need for a Red Claw Crayfish?

The minimum recommended tank size is 200 litres. If you plan to keep a pair or a small group, you will need significantly more space along with abundant hiding places to reduce territorial aggression, particularly during vulnerable moulting periods. A secure, escape-proof lid is also essential regardless of tank size.

How long do Red Claw Crayfish live?

Red Claw Crayfish have a lifespan of 5-8 years when kept in appropriate conditions. Providing stable tropical water parameters within their preferred range of 22-28°C, a pH of 6.5-8.0, and a well-maintained tank with plenty of shelter will help them reach their full lifespan.

Is it okay to keep a Red Claw Crayfish on its own?

Yes, solo keeping is perfectly valid and is arguably the simplest approach. It eliminates any risk of cannibalism or territorial aggression between individuals, particularly the danger posed to freshly moulted crayfish that are soft and vulnerable. A single Red Claw Crayfish is a curious and active animal that displays a wide range of fascinating behaviours including foraging, territory defence, burrowing, and moulting.

Related Guides

• Purple Vampire Crab — Tank Setup, Feeding and Breeding – Another large freshwater crustacean with specific habitat needs, offering a useful comparison for keepers interested in invertebrate-focused setups.
• Amano Shrimp — Tank Setup, Feeding and Breeding – A popular freshwater invertebrate that should never be housed with Red Claw Crayfish, but a great alternative for those wanting crustaceans in a community tank.
• Red Cherry Shrimp — Tank Setup, Feeding and Breeding – One of the most commonly kept freshwater shrimp, useful for understanding why small shrimp species are completely incompatible with large crayfish.
• Assassin Snail — Tank Setup, Feeding and Breeding – A hardy freshwater invertebrate with predatory behaviour of its own, relevant for keepers exploring invertebrate-only tank setups.
• Black Devil Snail — Tank Setup, Feeding and Breeding – A large, robust tropical snail that shares similar water temperature preferences, of interest to keepers building dedicated invertebrate aquariums.