African Butterfly Cichlid Care Guide – Tank Setup, Feeding and Breeding
Quick summary
The African Butterfly Cichlid is an easy to keep, peaceful dwarf cichlid that tolerates a wide range of water conditions and gets along well with most community fish, making it a great choice for beginners wanting to try cichlid keeping and breeding. A pair needs just 75 litres, and with plenty of plants and hiding spots, it’s one of the simplest cichlids to spawn successfully at home.
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In this guide:
- Introduction
- Quick Stats
- Appearance
- Natural Habitat
- Tank Size and Setup
- Water Parameters
- Filtration and Equipment
- Diet and Feeding
- Behaviour and Temperament
- Tank Mates
- Breeding
- Common Diseases
- FAQs
Introduction
The African Butterfly Cichlid (Anomalochromis thomasi) is one of the most underrated dwarf cichlids available in the freshwater aquarium hobby. Originating from the rivers and streams of West Africa, this small, peaceful cichlid offers a compelling combination of subtle beauty, fascinating behaviour, and genuine community compatibility that is rare among cichlid species. Unlike many of its more boisterous relatives, the African Butterfly Cichlid can be kept alongside a wide variety of peaceful tropical fish, making it an excellent choice for hobbyists who want to experience cichlid behaviour without the aggression that often accompanies it.
First described by Boulenger in 1915, Anomalochromis thomasi has had a somewhat chequered taxonomic history, having been placed in the genera Pelmatochromis and Hemichromis at various points before being assigned its own monotypic genus, Anomalochromis. The species name honours the collector, N. W. Thomas. Despite its long history in the hobby, it remains relatively uncommon in shops compared to popular South American dwarf cichlids such as Apistogramma species or rams. This is unfortunate, as the African Butterfly Cichlid is arguably one of the easiest cichlids to keep and breed, and its iridescent flanks – which shimmer with rows of turquoise, gold, and rose-pink spots – rival those of far more expensive species.
This care guide covers everything you need to know to keep Anomalochromis thomasi healthy and thriving, from tank setup and water parameters to diet, breeding, and compatible tank mates. Whether you are a beginner looking for your first cichlid or an experienced keeper seeking a peaceful West African species, the African Butterfly Cichlid is well worth your attention.
Quick Stats
| Scientific name | Anomalochromis thomasi |
| Common names | African Butterfly Cichlid, Thomas’ Dwarf Cichlid, Thomas’ Cichlid |
| Family | Cichlidae |
| Origin | West Africa – Sierra Leone, Liberia, Guinea |
| Adult size | 6-8 cm (2.4-3.1 inches) |
| Lifespan | 4-6 years |
| Difficulty | Easy |
| Breeding difficulty | Easy |
| Temperature | 23-27 °C |
| pH range | 6.0-7.5 |
| General hardness (GH) | 3-12 dGH |
| Carbonate hardness (KH) | 2-8 dKH |
| Minimum tank size | 75 litres |
| Conservation status | Least Concern |
Appearance
The African Butterfly Cichlid is a compact, laterally compressed dwarf cichlid with a body shape typical of the broader Hemichromini tribe. Adults typically reach 6 to 8 centimetres in total length, with males tending to be slightly larger and more robustly built than females. The overall body shape is oval to slightly elongated, with a gently sloping forehead and a terminal mouth well suited to picking food items from the water column and substrate alike.
The base colouration is a warm olive to golden-brown, overlaid with five to six dark vertical bars that can be intensified or faded depending on the fish’s mood and social context. What truly sets this species apart, however, is the extensive iridescent spotting that covers the flanks and gill covers. Under good lighting, rows of small, jewel-like spots in shades of turquoise, sky-blue, and sometimes rose-pink become visible, giving the fish a sparkling appearance that justifies its “butterfly” common name. The dorsal fin is edged in red or orange, particularly in males, and the caudal fin may show hints of red and blue.
A prominent dark spot, often ringed in iridescent blue, sits on the gill cover (operculum), and a second blotch is usually visible on the mid-flank. These spots can vary in intensity and are useful identification markers. During spawning and brood care, both sexes intensify their colour dramatically. Breeding females in particular develop a rich, warm golden body tone with strongly contrasting dark bars and vivid iridescent spotting, making them arguably more colourful than the males at this stage.
Sexual dimorphism is subtle outside of breeding condition. Males tend to be slightly larger, with marginally more extended dorsal and anal fins. Females are often a touch rounder in the belly region, and some experienced keepers note that females may show slightly more pronounced flank spotting. The most reliable way to sex a pair is to observe them during courtship, when the behavioural differences become far more apparent than the physical ones.
Natural Habitat
Anomalochromis thomasi is found in the coastal river systems of West Africa, primarily in Sierra Leone and Liberia, with some records from Guinea. Its range encompasses a variety of lowland freshwater habitats, from slow-moving forest streams and small rivers to swampy areas and seasonal pools. These habitats are typically shaded by overhanging riparian vegetation, resulting in relatively dim lighting conditions and a substrate of sand, mud, leaf litter, and submerged wood.
The water in these environments is often soft and slightly acidic, stained to varying degrees by tannins released from decomposing organic matter. However, the species is found across a fairly broad range of water chemistries, reflecting the geological diversity of the region. Some populations inhabit waters that are close to neutral or even slightly alkaline, which helps explain the species’ adaptability in captivity.
In the wild, African Butterfly Cichlids occupy the lower portions of the water column, foraging among leaf litter, rocks, and submerged roots for small invertebrates, insect larvae, and organic detritus. They are typically found in pairs or small groups and are not known to form large shoals. The presence of abundant cover – whether from fallen branches, root tangles, or dense marginal vegetation – is a constant feature of their natural habitats and should be replicated in the aquarium.
The West African forests that this species calls home are under significant pressure from deforestation, mining, and agricultural expansion. While Anomalochromis thomasi is currently assessed as Least Concern by the IUCN, ongoing habitat degradation in the region is a concern for many freshwater species. Most specimens available in the hobby are captive-bred, which reduces collection pressure on wild populations.
Tank Size and Setup
A single pair of African Butterfly Cichlids can be housed comfortably in a tank of 75 litres or more. If you plan to keep them as part of a community with other species, or if you wish to keep a small group, a tank of 100 to 150 litres is preferable. Larger tanks also provide more room to establish distinct territories, which helps reduce any minor squabbling that may occur, particularly during breeding.
The aquascape should aim to replicate the species’ natural forest stream environment. A sandy substrate is ideal, as it allows the fish to sift through it naturally and reduces the risk of injury to their mouths and barbels. Fine gravel is also acceptable. Dark substrates tend to bring out the best colouration in this species, as the fish feel more secure and display more vivid iridescent spotting against a darker background.
Provide plenty of cover in the form of driftwood, bogwood, smooth rocks, and hardy plants. Caves and crevices are particularly important, as they serve as potential spawning sites and refuges. Flat stones, overturned terracotta pots, and coconut shell halves all make excellent spawning surfaces. Arrange hardscape to create visual barriers and distinct territories, especially if you are keeping more than one pair.
Live plants are highly recommended and well tolerated by this species, which does not dig excessively or damage vegetation. Suitable choices include Anubias species, Java Fern (Microsorum pteropus), Bolbitis heudelotii (the African Water Fern, a particularly appropriate choice given the species’ origin), Cryptocoryne species, and floating plants such as Amazon Frogbit or Water Lettuce. Floating plants help diffuse overhead lighting and create the shaded conditions that Anomalochromis thomasi prefers.
Adding a layer of dried leaf litter – Indian almond leaves (Terminalia catappa) or oak leaves are popular choices – provides an extra level of naturalism. The leaves release tannins that slightly tint the water and lower the pH, mimicking the blackwater conditions found in parts of the species’ range. They also support the growth of biofilm and microfauna, which can serve as supplementary food for both adults and fry.
Moderate lighting is preferred. If your lighting is on the brighter side for plant growth, ensure there are shaded areas created by floating plants, overhanging wood, or tall-growing stem plants. The fish will be noticeably more confident and colourful when they are not constantly exposed to intense overhead light.
Water Parameters
| Temperature | 23-27 °C |
| pH | 6.0-7.5 |
| General hardness (GH) | 3-12 dGH |
| Carbonate hardness (KH) | 2-8 dKH |
| Ammonia | 0 ppm |
| Nitrite | 0 ppm |
| Nitrate | Below 20 ppm |
One of the great advantages of the African Butterfly Cichlid is its adaptability to a fairly wide range of water parameters. While it thrives in soft, slightly acidic water that mirrors its natural habitat, it will do perfectly well in moderately hard, neutral water that comes straight from many UK taps. This flexibility makes it far less demanding than many other dwarf cichlid species and contributes to its reputation as an excellent beginner’s cichlid.
That said, stable water conditions are more important than hitting a specific number. Sudden fluctuations in temperature, pH, or hardness are far more stressful than keeping the fish at a slightly suboptimal but consistent value. Aim for a temperature around 25 °C as a good middle ground. If you wish to encourage breeding, slightly warmer water (26-27 °C) combined with softer, more acidic conditions (pH 6.0-6.5, GH 3-6 dGH) often yields the best results.
Regular partial water changes of 20-30% weekly are essential for maintaining water quality. This species is reasonably hardy but, like all cichlids, it is sensitive to elevated levels of dissolved nitrogenous waste. Keep ammonia and nitrite at zero at all times and nitrate below 20 ppm. If you are using leaf litter and driftwood, these will naturally buffer the water towards a lower pH, so monitor your parameters regularly, especially in soft water where pH can drop more rapidly.
Filtration and Equipment
The African Butterfly Cichlid does not require any specialised filtration, but good-quality biological and mechanical filtration is important for maintaining the pristine water conditions that all dwarf cichlids appreciate. A hang-on-back filter, internal canister, or external canister filter rated for the tank’s volume will all work well. Sponge filters are also an excellent choice, particularly in breeding setups, as they provide gentle flow and do not pose a risk to fry.
Flow rate should be moderate. In the wild, Anomalochromis thomasi inhabits slow-moving streams and calm areas rather than fast-flowing rapids. Excessive current will stress the fish and cause them to hide. If your filter produces a strong outflow, use a spray bar or direct the output against the glass to diffuse it. Aim for a gentle, even circulation that keeps the water well oxygenated without creating turbulence.
A reliable heater is necessary to maintain a stable tropical temperature. Choose a heater rated for your tank size and consider using a heater guard if you are keeping breeding pairs, as cichlids can occasionally damage equipment during territorial displays. A separate thermometer – digital or glass – is recommended to cross-check the heater’s built-in thermostat.
Standard aquarium lighting suitable for plant growth is fine. If you are not growing demanding plants, lower-intensity lighting or a shorter photoperiod (8-10 hours) will help keep the fish relaxed and reduce algae growth. A timer is a worthwhile investment to ensure a consistent day-night cycle.
An air pump is not strictly necessary if your filter provides adequate surface agitation for gas exchange. However, in warmer temperatures (above 26 °C), dissolved oxygen levels decrease, and a small air stone can be beneficial as a precaution.
Diet and Feeding
Anomalochromis thomasi is an omnivore with a strong preference for meaty foods. In the wild, its diet consists primarily of small invertebrates, insect larvae, crustaceans, and some plant matter and detritus. In captivity, it is an unfussy feeder that readily accepts a wide range of prepared and live foods.
A high-quality small-pellet cichlid food or tropical flake should form the staple of the diet. Look for products that list whole fish meal, shrimp, or insect meal as the primary ingredients, with minimal filler. Supplement this regularly with frozen or live foods such as bloodworm, daphnia, brine shrimp, mosquito larvae, and Cyclops. These protein-rich foods help maintain vibrant colour, support immune health, and are particularly important for conditioning breeding pairs.
Vegetable matter should also be offered occasionally. Blanched spinach, spirulina-enriched flakes or pellets, and the biofilm that naturally grows on driftwood and leaf litter all contribute to a balanced diet. Variety is key – offering a rotation of different food types throughout the week will ensure that all nutritional needs are met.
Feed small portions two to three times daily rather than one large feeding. African Butterfly Cichlids have small stomachs relative to their body size, and overfeeding can lead to water quality issues and digestive problems. Each feeding should be consumed within two to three minutes. Remove any uneaten food promptly to prevent it from decomposing and fouling the water.
When preparing a pair for breeding, increase the proportion of live and frozen foods in the diet for several weeks beforehand. This “conditioning” period helps both sexes develop the reserves needed for spawning and brood care.
Behaviour and Temperament
The African Butterfly Cichlid is widely regarded as one of the most peaceful cichlid species available to hobbyists. Outside of breeding, pairs and individuals are generally calm, inquisitive, and tolerant of other fish. They spend much of their time exploring the lower and middle portions of the water column, investigating the substrate and decor for food, and interacting with one another in a manner that is fascinating to observe.
This species forms monogamous pairs, and bonded pairs often remain together for life. The pair bond is maintained through subtle body language, including gentle lateral displays, fin flaring, and coordinated movements around their territory. Even outside of active breeding, a bonded pair will tend to stay in relatively close proximity to one another and to a preferred territory within the tank.
During breeding and brood care, the temperament changes noticeably. Both parents become territorial and will actively defend the area around their eggs and fry against any perceived intruders. This is natural cichlid parenting behaviour and is one of the most rewarding aspects of keeping this species. However, the aggression is typically measured and proportionate – the fish will chase intruders away from the nest site but rarely pursue them across the entire tank, and serious injuries to tank mates are uncommon provided the tank is large enough and offers adequate hiding places.
African Butterfly Cichlids are not shoaling fish, but they can be kept in small groups of four to six individuals in larger tanks (150 litres or more). In such groups, a dominance hierarchy will establish itself, and multiple pairs may form. Provide sufficient territory and visual barriers to minimise conflict in group setups.
This species is not a habitual digger, although it may rearrange small amounts of substrate around a chosen spawning site. Plants are left largely undisturbed, which is a significant advantage over many other cichlid species.
Tank Mates
The African Butterfly Cichlid is one of the best community cichlids available. Its small size, peaceful disposition, and tolerance of a wide range of water parameters make it compatible with a broad selection of tropical freshwater fish. The key considerations are avoiding species that are overly aggressive or large enough to bully or eat the cichlids, and similarly avoiding very tiny species that might be harassed by a breeding pair defending their fry. Mid-water and upper-water-column species that stay out of the cichlids’ lower-level territory tend to work particularly well.
Good tank mates
- Congo Tetra – A fellow West African species that occupies the mid-water column and shares similar water parameter preferences.
- Cherry Barb – A peaceful, colourful barb that is too active and mid-level dwelling to come into conflict with a bottom-dwelling cichlid pair.
- Harlequin Rasbora – A gentle, undemanding shoaling fish that stays in the middle and upper water levels, posing no territorial threat.
- Bristlenose Pleco – A hardy, algae-eating catfish that generally ignores cichlids and is robust enough to hold its ground if challenged.
- Kribensis – Another West African dwarf cichlid with a peaceful temperament, though ensure the tank is large enough for both species to hold separate territories.
- Corydoras sterbai – Peaceful bottom-dwelling catfish that coexist well with dwarf cichlids, provided the tank has enough floor space for both.
- Rummy-nose Tetra – A tight-schooling tetra that stays in the mid-water and is quick enough to avoid any breeding-related chasing.
- Synodontis nigriventris (Upside-down Catfish) – A West African catfish that is peaceful, nocturnal, and occupies a different ecological niche.
Fish to avoid
- Oscar – Far too large and aggressive; would easily prey upon or severely bully the much smaller African Butterfly Cichlid.
- Jewel Cichlid (Hemichromis bimaculatus) – Highly territorial and aggressive, especially when breeding, and would dominate or injure Anomalochromis thomasi.
- Convict Cichlid – An extremely territorial species during breeding that would overwhelm the more peaceable African Butterfly Cichlid.
- Jack Dempsey – A large, aggressive New World cichlid that would pose a serious threat due to its size and belligerent temperament.
- Tiger Barb – A notorious fin nipper that could stress and harass the slower-moving cichlid, particularly targeting its fins.
- Red-tail Shark – Highly territorial over bottom-dwelling areas and likely to clash repeatedly with a pair of cichlids defending a breeding site.
- Green Terror – Much too large and aggressive for cohabitation; would quickly dominate and injure the smaller species.
- African Butterfly Fish (Pantodon buchholzi) – While a West African species, its predatory surface-dwelling nature means it could consume cichlid fry, and its delicate nature makes it a poor match for any cichlid territory defence.
Breeding
Breeding the African Butterfly Cichlid is one of the great pleasures of keeping this species and is well within the reach of beginners. Anomalochromis thomasi is a substrate spawner that forms monogamous pairs and exhibits exemplary biparental brood care. Watching both parents cooperate to guard, clean, and raise their young is a genuinely absorbing experience that offers a wonderful window into cichlid reproductive behaviour.
The first step is to obtain a compatible pair. The most reliable method is to purchase a group of six to eight juveniles and allow them to pair off naturally as they mature. This approach lets the fish choose their own partners, which tends to produce stronger pair bonds than forcing two arbitrary adults together. Once a pair has formed – signalled by the two fish defending a territory together and displaying to one another – the remaining fish can be rehomed if the tank is not large enough to accommodate them.
Condition the pair with frequent feedings of high-quality live and frozen foods for two to three weeks. A slight drop in pH and a partial water change with slightly cooler water can help trigger spawning, simulating the onset of the rainy season in the species’ natural range. Ensure that suitable spawning surfaces are available – flat stones, slate pieces, the inner surface of a cave, or the underside of driftwood are all commonly used.
When ready to spawn, the female will clean the chosen surface meticulously, and both fish will display heightened colouration with strongly contrasting dark bars and vivid iridescent spotting. The female deposits rows of adhesive eggs on the surface, and the male follows closely behind to fertilise them. A typical clutch consists of 100 to 300 eggs, depending on the size and condition of the female.
Both parents guard the eggs and fan them constantly to maintain water flow and prevent fungus. Infertile or fungused eggs are removed and eaten by the parents. At 25-26 °C, the eggs hatch in approximately two to three days. The wrigglers remain attached to the spawning surface or are moved by the parents to a pre-dug pit in the substrate, where they continue to develop for a further four to five days before becoming free-swimming.
Once the fry are free-swimming, they form a tight cloud around the parents, who continue to guard them vigilantly. The fry are large enough to accept freshly hatched brine shrimp (Artemia nauplii) and microworms from the first day of free swimming. Finely crushed flake food can also be offered, though live foods produce significantly better growth rates. Feed the fry small amounts several times a day.
Parental care can continue for several weeks, with the fry gradually dispersing as they grow. In a community tank, some fry losses to other fish are inevitable, but a well-planted tank with plenty of cover can allow a surprising number to survive. For maximum fry yield, consider moving the breeding pair or the fry to a dedicated rearing tank.
Common Diseases
The African Butterfly Cichlid is a robust species that is not especially prone to disease when kept in clean, stable conditions. Most health problems in this species are directly attributable to poor water quality, inadequate diet, or stress from inappropriate tank mates. Prevention through good husbandry is always preferable to treatment.
Ich (white spot disease) is perhaps the most common ailment encountered. It manifests as small white cysts on the body and fins and is typically triggered by sudden temperature drops or the introduction of infected fish. It responds well to a gradual increase in temperature to 30 °C combined with aquarium salt or a proprietary ich treatment. Quarantining new fish before adding them to an established tank is the best preventative measure.
Bacterial infections, including fin rot and skin ulcers, can occur in fish kept in water with elevated ammonia, nitrite, or nitrate levels. These conditions damage the fish’s mucous membrane and create entry points for opportunistic bacteria. Treatment involves correcting the underlying water quality issue and, if necessary, using a broad-spectrum antibacterial treatment. Mild cases of fin rot will often resolve on their own once water quality is restored.
Hole-in-the-head disease (HITH or lateral line erosion) is occasionally seen in cichlids, including dwarf species. It presents as small pits or erosions along the head and lateral line. The exact cause is debated, but it is associated with poor diet (particularly a lack of variety and vitamins), high nitrate levels, and the use of activated carbon in filtration. Improving diet, reducing nitrates, and removing carbon from the filter often lead to recovery.
Internal parasites can occasionally be a concern, particularly in wild-caught specimens. Symptoms include weight loss despite a good appetite, white stringy faeces, and a sunken belly. Proprietary anti-parasitic medications are available and generally effective when used according to instructions.
Fungal infections may affect eggs during breeding, appearing as white cottony growths on infertile or dead eggs. Good water quality and the parents’ attentive fanning usually keep fungus at bay, but if it becomes a problem, a mild antifungal treatment can be added to the breeding tank. Methylene blue is commonly used for this purpose.
FAQs
Can African Butterfly Cichlids be kept in a community tank?
Yes, absolutely. The African Butterfly Cichlid is one of the most community-friendly cichlid species available. It coexists well with a wide range of peaceful tropical fish, including tetras, rasboras, barbs, catfish, and other dwarf cichlids. The only time you may see increased aggression is when a pair is actively guarding eggs or fry, and even then, the behaviour is typically limited to chasing intruders away from the immediate nesting area rather than causing serious harm.
How can I tell male African Butterfly Cichlids from females?
Sexing this species can be challenging, especially in juvenile fish. Males tend to be slightly larger and may have marginally more pointed dorsal and anal fins. Females are often slightly rounder in the belly when well-fed. During breeding, the differences become more apparent, as the female typically develops a richer golden body colour with intensified dark barring. The most reliable method is to observe courtship behaviour in a group and allow pairs to form naturally.
Do African Butterfly Cichlids need soft, acidic water?
While they originate from soft, slightly acidic waters in West Africa, captive-bred specimens are highly adaptable and will thrive in a range of conditions from pH 6.0 to 7.5 and GH 3 to 12 dGH. Most UK tap water, once dechlorinated, is perfectly suitable. Softer, more acidic conditions may be beneficial for breeding, but they are not a strict requirement for general health and wellbeing.
How many African Butterfly Cichlids can I keep together?
A single pair is the most common and practical arrangement for most hobbyists, requiring a minimum of 75 litres. In larger tanks of 150 litres or more, you can keep a small group of four to six individuals, which will likely form one or two pairs. Ensure there are enough territories and visual barriers to prevent excessive conflict. Keeping a single specimen is not recommended, as they are social fish that do best as a pair or in a small group.
Are African Butterfly Cichlids the same as African Butterfly Fish?
No, these are entirely different species. The African Butterfly Cichlid (Anomalochromis thomasi) is a dwarf cichlid that inhabits the lower water column. The African Butterfly Fish (Pantodon buchholzi) is a surface-dwelling predatory species from the family Pantodontidae, known for its large, wing-like pectoral fins. The two share a geographic origin in West Africa but are not closely related and have very different care requirements and behaviours.
Related Guides
- Kribensis (Pelvicachromis pulcher) – Another popular and peaceful West African dwarf cichlid that shares similar care requirements and makes an excellent companion or alternative species choice.
- Congo Tetra – A stunning West African schooling fish that pairs beautifully with Anomalochromis thomasi in a biotope-style community setup.
- Apistogramma cacatuoides – A South American dwarf cichlid with similarly accessible care needs, useful for comparison if you are deciding between New World and Old World dwarf cichlids.
- Bristlenose Pleco – A hardy and popular bottom-dwelling companion that complements the African Butterfly Cichlid well in community setups.
- Jewel Cichlid (Hemichromis bimaculatus) – A closely related but significantly more aggressive West African cichlid, included here as a contrast to highlight the unusually peaceful nature of Anomalochromis thomasi.