Bala Shark Care Guide – Tank Setup, Feeding and Breeding

Quick summary

Bala Sharks are only suitable if you can provide a shoal of at least five fish in a tank of 570 litres or more, since they grow to 25-35 cm and are stressed and prone to stunting in smaller setups. They are peaceful, hardy community fish once these space needs are met, but breeding is essentially not achievable at home, and the species is Endangered in the wild, so a captive-bred source and committed long-term care are important.

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In this guide:

Introduction
Quick Stats
Appearance
Natural Habitat
Tank Size and Setup
Water Parameters
Filtration and Equipment
Diet and Feeding
Behaviour and Temperament
Tank Mates
Breeding
Common Diseases
FAQs

Introduction

The Bala Shark, despite its common name, is not a shark at all. It is a large, peaceful cyprinid from Southeast Asia that earns its nickname from its torpedo-shaped body and tall, upright dorsal fin, which give it a superficial resemblance to a marine shark. Scientifically known as Balantiocheilos melanopterus, this striking freshwater fish has been a staple in the aquarium hobby for decades, admired for its sleek silver body, elegant black-edged fins, and active swimming behaviour.

However, the Bala Shark is one of the most commonly misunderstood fish in the hobby. Juveniles are widely sold at just 5 to 8 centimetres in length, giving the impression that they are a manageable community fish. In reality, Bala Sharks grow rapidly and can reach 25 to 35 centimetres in captivity, with some individuals exceeding 35 centimetres under optimal conditions. They are active, fast-swimming shoaling fish that require enormous tanks to thrive. Keeping them in undersized aquaria leads to chronic stress, stunted growth, and a significantly reduced lifespan.

Adding to the importance of responsible fishkeeping is the species’ conservation status. Bala Sharks are listed as Endangered on the IUCN Red List. Wild populations in their native range across Borneo, Sumatra, and the Malay Peninsula have declined dramatically, and the species may already be extinct in parts of its former range. The vast majority of Bala Sharks in the aquarium trade today are captive-bred, primarily in commercial fish farms across Southeast Asia, but their endangered status in the wild underscores the need for conscientious husbandry.

This guide provides comprehensive information on every aspect of Bala Shark care, from tank requirements and water parameters to diet, behaviour, breeding, and disease prevention. Whether you are considering adding Bala Sharks to a large community aquarium or simply want to learn more about this impressive cyprinid, the information below will help you make informed decisions and provide the best possible care for these magnificent fish.

Quick Stats

Scientific name	Balantiocheilos melanopterus
Common names	Bala Shark, Silver Shark, Tricolour Shark, Tri-colour Sharkminnow
Family	Cyprinidae
Origin	Southeast Asia (Borneo, Sumatra, Malay Peninsula, Mekong and Chao Phraya basins)
Adult size	25-35 cm (up to 35 cm in captivity)
Lifespan	8-10 years (up to 12+ years with excellent care)
Difficulty	Moderate
Breeding difficulty	Expert
Temperature	22-28 °C
pH range	6.0-8.0
General hardness (GH)	5-12 dGH
Carbonate hardness (KH)	4-10 dKH
Minimum tank size	570 litres
Conservation status	Endangered (IUCN)

Appearance

The Bala Shark is an undeniably handsome fish. Its body is elongated and laterally compressed, with a streamlined, torpedo-like profile that reflects its active, open-water swimming lifestyle. The overall coloration is a lustrous metallic silver, which gleams under aquarium lighting and gives the fish a polished, almost mirror-like quality. The scales are large and well-defined, contributing to the shimmering effect as the fish moves through the water.

The most distinctive feature of the Bala Shark is its finnage. The dorsal fin is tall and triangular, standing erect and giving the fish its shark-like silhouette. All fins – dorsal, caudal, anal, and pelvic – share the same colour pattern: a pale to bright yellow base with a bold black margin. This striking contrast between the yellow and black creates the tricolour effect (silver body, yellow fins, black edges) that gives rise to the alternative common name “Tricolour Shark.” The pectoral fins are typically clear or very pale and lack the black edging seen on the other fins.

The eyes are proportionally large and set slightly forward on the head, providing excellent vision suited to a fast-swimming species. The mouth is positioned terminally (at the front of the head) and is relatively small for the fish’s body size, reflecting an omnivorous diet that does not rely on consuming large prey items.

Juvenile Bala Sharks are essentially miniature versions of the adults, with the same silver body and black-edged fins, though the colouration tends to intensify and become more vivid as the fish matures. There is no reliable external sexual dimorphism; males and females look virtually identical, though mature females may appear slightly rounder in the abdomen when carrying eggs.

When healthy and kept in optimal conditions, the silver body colour is bright and reflective, and the fins are held erect and spread wide. A stressed or unwell Bala Shark may exhibit dull, washed-out colouration, clamped fins, and reduced activity. These visual cues are important indicators for the fishkeeper to monitor.

Natural Habitat

Bala Sharks are native to the freshwater river systems and lakes of Southeast Asia. Historically, their range encompassed the Mekong and Chao Phraya river basins in mainland Southeast Asia, as well as the rivers and lakes of the Malay Peninsula, Borneo, and Sumatra. They inhabit medium to large rivers, floodplain lakes, and associated wetland areas, typically favouring clear to moderately turbid waters with moderate current.

In the wild, Bala Sharks are found in midwater zones of large, open waterbodies. They are pelagic fish – meaning they spend the majority of their time swimming in open water rather than near the substrate or amongst dense vegetation. Their natural habitats tend to be deep, broad rivers and expansive lakes where there is ample room for sustained swimming. The substrates in these environments are typically sandy or muddy, with scattered rocks and submerged wood providing occasional structure.

Water conditions in their native habitats are generally soft to moderately hard and slightly acidic to neutral, with temperatures in the tropical range of 22 to 28 degrees Celsius. Seasonal flooding is a significant feature of many of these river systems, and Bala Sharks may migrate into flooded forests and wetlands during the wet season to feed and potentially to breed.

The species has undergone severe population declines in the wild. It is believed to be extinct or nearly extinct in several parts of its former range, including much of the Mekong basin and possibly parts of Borneo. The exact causes of decline are not fully understood but are thought to include habitat destruction (dam construction, deforestation, and conversion of wetlands), water pollution, and potentially overcollection for the aquarium trade in past decades. The IUCN lists the species as Endangered, and ongoing conservation research is needed to assess and protect remaining wild populations.

Understanding the natural habitat of the Bala Shark is essential for replicating appropriate conditions in captivity. The key takeaways for the aquarist are the species’ need for vast swimming space, clean and well-oxygenated water, moderate current, and the absence of cramped or heavily obstructed environments.

Tank Size and Setup

Tank size is arguably the single most critical factor in successfully keeping Bala Sharks. A minimum tank size of 570 litres (approximately 125 imperial gallons) is recommended for a small group of Bala Sharks, though larger is always better. A single Bala Shark should not be kept in anything smaller than 380 litres, but as these are shoaling fish that should be kept in groups of at least five, the 570-litre minimum applies in practice. Tanks of 750 litres or more are strongly preferred, and truly dedicated keepers house their Bala Sharks in aquaria of 1,000 litres or above.

Tank dimensions matter as much as volume. Bala Sharks are fast, linear swimmers that need long, unobstructed swimming lanes. A tank should be at least 180 centimetres (6 feet) in length, and ideally longer. Width and depth are also important; a minimum width of 60 centimetres is advisable to allow comfortable turning. Tall, narrow tanks are wholly unsuitable for this species.

The aquascape should be kept relatively open. Bala Sharks do not need elaborate rockwork, dense plantings, or complex structures. In fact, excessive decoration can be counterproductive, as it reduces available swimming space and increases the risk of injury when these powerful, fast-moving fish become startled. A simple layout with a sandy or fine gravel substrate, a few pieces of driftwood or large smooth rocks positioned at the sides or rear of the tank, and perhaps some robust background plants (such as Vallisneria or large Anubias) provides the ideal balance of open water and subtle environmental enrichment.

A secure, tight-fitting lid is essential. Bala Sharks are notorious jumpers, particularly when newly introduced to a tank, startled by sudden movements or loud noises, or stressed by poor water conditions. Any gaps in the tank cover, including around filter inlets, heater cables, or tubing, should be sealed. Many fishkeepers have lost Bala Sharks to jumping, and it remains one of the most common causes of premature death in this species.

Lighting should be moderate. Bala Sharks are not particularly light-sensitive, but excessively bright lighting with no shaded areas can cause stress. Standard aquarium lighting suitable for a planted or community tank is fine, and floating plants can be used to diffuse light at the surface if needed.

The substrate should be smooth and non-abrasive. Fine sand or rounded gravel is ideal. Sharp-edged substrates can injure the fish’s barbels and ventral surface as they occasionally forage along the bottom.

Water Parameters

Bala Sharks are reasonably adaptable when it comes to water chemistry, but they do best within a specific range of parameters. Consistency and stability are more important than hitting an exact number; sudden fluctuations in temperature, pH, or hardness can cause significant stress and increase susceptibility to disease.

Temperature	22-28 °C
pH	6.0-8.0
General hardness (GH)	5-12 dGH
Carbonate hardness (KH)	4-10 dKH
Ammonia	0 ppm
Nitrite	0 ppm
Nitrate	Below 20 ppm

The ideal temperature for Bala Sharks sits in the range of 24 to 26 degrees Celsius, which is comfortably within the tropical norm and compatible with a wide variety of tank mates. They can tolerate slightly cooler or warmer temperatures short-term, but prolonged exposure to extremes should be avoided.

A neutral to slightly acidic pH of 6.5 to 7.5 is optimal, though Bala Sharks can adapt to a broader range provided the pH remains stable. Sudden shifts in pH – for example, from careless water changes using water of a different chemistry – are far more harmful than a slightly suboptimal but stable reading.

Water quality is paramount for this species. Bala Sharks are sensitive to dissolved waste products, particularly ammonia and nitrite, which must always read zero in a properly cycled and maintained aquarium. Nitrate should be kept below 20 ppm through regular water changes. Given the large body mass and active metabolism of Bala Sharks, bioload management is a significant consideration, and generous filtration combined with disciplined maintenance routines is non-negotiable.

Weekly water changes of 25 to 30 per cent are recommended as a baseline, though larger or more frequent changes may be necessary in heavily stocked tanks. Always match the temperature and chemistry of replacement water to the tank water to prevent thermal or chemical shock.

Filtration and Equipment

Given the size, activity level, and metabolic output of Bala Sharks, robust filtration is absolutely essential. A large external canister filter – or ideally two – rated for significantly more than the tank’s total volume is the foundation of a successful Bala Shark setup. As a general rule, aim for a total filtration turnover rate of at least six to eight times the tank volume per hour. For a 600-litre tank, this means a combined filter flow rate of 3,600 to 4,800 litres per hour.

External canister filters are preferred because they offer large media volumes for biological filtration, reliable mechanical filtration, and the flexibility to customise media choices. Sump filtration is also an excellent option for very large tanks and offers even greater media capacity and ease of maintenance. Internal filters and hang-on-back filters are generally insufficient for tanks housing Bala Sharks unless used as supplementary filtration alongside a primary canister or sump system.

Biological filtration media should form the core of the filter setup. Ceramic rings, sintered glass media, or similar high-surface-area materials provide homes for the nitrifying bacteria colonies that convert ammonia to nitrite and nitrite to nitrate. Mechanical filtration (filter sponges and floss) should be cleaned or replaced regularly to prevent clogging and maintain flow rates.

Bala Sharks appreciate moderate water current. The output from canister filters or powerheads can be directed along the length of the tank to create a gentle but consistent flow, mimicking the riverine conditions these fish experience in the wild. Avoid creating excessively turbulent areas, but do ensure that water is well circulated and oxygenated throughout the tank.

A reliable aquarium heater rated for the tank volume is essential. For very large tanks, using two heaters positioned at opposite ends ensures even heat distribution and provides a safety backup if one unit fails. A quality digital thermometer should be used to monitor temperature continuously.

An air pump with an airstone or spray bar can supplement oxygenation, particularly in warmer weather when dissolved oxygen levels naturally decrease. Good surface agitation from filter returns also helps maintain adequate gas exchange.

As mentioned in the tank setup section, a secure lid is critical. Beyond preventing jumping, a well-fitted lid also reduces evaporation and helps maintain stable water temperature.

Diet and Feeding

Bala Sharks are true omnivores with hearty appetites. In the wild, they feed on a variety of food sources including insects, insect larvae, small crustaceans, algae, plant matter, and phytoplankton. In captivity, they are enthusiastic and unfussy eaters that will readily accept a wide range of foods, making feeding one of the easier aspects of their care.

A high-quality pellet or flake food should form the staple of the Bala Shark’s diet. Choose a product formulated for large tropical omnivores or cyprinids, with a good balance of protein, vegetable matter, vitamins, and minerals. As Bala Sharks grow, they will outgrow standard flake foods and do better with medium to large pellets that they can easily consume without excess waste.

Supplement the staple diet with a variety of live, frozen, and freeze-dried foods. Bloodworms, brine shrimp, daphnia, and mosquito larvae are all excellent protein-rich treats that Bala Sharks relish. Live foods are particularly valuable for conditioning fish and encouraging natural foraging behaviour. Vegetable matter should also be offered regularly; blanched spinach, cucumber, courgette, shelled peas, and spirulina-based foods all provide important fibre and micronutrients.

Feed Bala Sharks two to three times per day, offering only as much food as the fish can consume within two to three minutes per feeding session. Overfeeding is a common problem in large-fish setups and leads to excess waste production, poor water quality, and potential health issues. It is far better to feed smaller, more frequent meals than a single large one.

As Bala Sharks grow, their dietary needs shift slightly. Larger adults benefit from occasional offerings of earthworms, chopped prawns, or mussel, which provide bulk protein. However, the diet should remain varied and not overly reliant on any single food type. A monotonous diet can lead to nutritional deficiencies over time.

Bala Sharks are midwater feeders but will also forage from the surface and substrate. Sinking pellets can be useful for ensuring all members of a group get adequate food, particularly if kept with surface-feeding tank mates that might outcompete them at the top of the water column.

Behaviour and Temperament

Bala Sharks are active, fast-swimming, and generally peaceful fish. They spend the vast majority of their time cruising back and forth through open water, often in loose shoals. Their swimming is purposeful and energetic, and watching a group of Bala Sharks patrol a large aquarium is one of the great pleasures of keeping this species.

Bala Sharks are shoaling fish and must be kept in groups of at least five. Solitary Bala Sharks or those kept in pairs or trios frequently become stressed, nervous, and prone to erratic behaviour including constant glass-surfing, hiding, and sudden panicked dashes that can result in injury. A larger group distributes social dynamics more evenly and helps the fish feel secure.

Despite their large size, Bala Sharks are not aggressive or predatory towards similarly sized or slightly smaller tank mates. They are, however, capable of eating very small fish and invertebrates. This is not predatory aggression but rather opportunistic feeding behaviour – if a neon tetra or cherry shrimp fits in a Bala Shark’s mouth, it may well be consumed. Tank mates should therefore be chosen with this in mind.

One of the most notable behavioural traits of the Bala Shark is its skittishness. These fish are easily startled by sudden movements near the tank, loud noises, vibrations, and changes in lighting. When frightened, Bala Sharks bolt at remarkable speed and can injure themselves by crashing into the glass, decorations, or equipment. This is another reason why a large, open tank with a secure lid is so important. Over time, Bala Sharks in a stable, well-maintained environment with a consistent routine will become less nervous, but they never fully lose their flighty nature.

Within a group, Bala Sharks establish a loose social hierarchy. Minor chasing and displays may occur, but serious aggression is rare. Providing ample space ensures that subordinate individuals can easily distance themselves from more dominant fish, preventing escalation.

Bala Sharks are diurnal and most active during daylight hours. They rest at night, often hovering motionlessly in mid-water or near the bottom of the tank. A consistent light-dark cycle of approximately 10 to 12 hours of light per day helps regulate their activity patterns and reduces stress.

Tank Mates

Bala Sharks are peaceful community fish that can be housed with a wide range of similarly sized, non-aggressive species. The key considerations when selecting tank mates are size compatibility (avoiding anything small enough to be eaten), temperament (avoiding overly aggressive or territorial species), and environmental requirements (preferring species that thrive in similar water parameters). All potential tank mates must also be suited to the large tank volumes required for Bala Sharks.

Good tank mates

Rainbow Shark – A similarly sized cyprinid that occupies the bottom of the tank, avoiding direct competition for swimming space with mid-water Bala Sharks.
Clown Loach – A large, sociable bottom-dweller that shares similar water parameter requirements and complements the Bala Shark’s midwater activity.
Tinfoil Barb – Another large, active cyprinid with a peaceful temperament that thrives in the same spacious setups Bala Sharks require.
Angelfish – Peaceful cichlids that occupy different water levels and are large enough not to be viewed as prey by adult Bala Sharks.
Pearl Gourami – A calm, medium-sized labyrinth fish that coexists peacefully and adds visual contrast to the tank.
Bristlenose Pleco – A hardy algae-eating catfish that stays out of the Bala Shark’s swimming zone and helps maintain tank cleanliness.
Giant Danio – An active, fast-swimming schooling fish that is large enough to avoid predation and enjoys similar water conditions.
Blue Gourami – A robust, medium to large gourami that is generally peaceful and tolerant of the Bala Shark’s active nature.
Denison Barb – A beautiful, active schooling fish that matches the Bala Shark’s energy and appreciates similar water flow and tank dimensions.

Fish to avoid

Neon Tetra – Far too small and will almost certainly be eaten by adult Bala Sharks.
Cherry Shrimp – Tiny invertebrates that are easy prey for Bala Sharks and incompatible in a shared tank.
Oscar – A large, aggressive cichlid that may bully or attack Bala Sharks, leading to stress and injury.
Red Devil Cichlid – Highly territorial and aggressive, posing a serious threat of physical harm to the peaceful Bala Shark.
Flowerhorn Cichlid – An extremely aggressive hybrid cichlid that is unsuitable for any community setup, especially with a skittish species like the Bala Shark.
Betta – Too small and slow to coexist safely with large, active Bala Sharks, and the Bala Shark’s constant movement may stress the Betta.
Guppy – A small, slow-swimming fish that is at serious risk of being consumed by Bala Sharks as they mature.
Jaguar Cichlid – A large, predatory, and highly aggressive cichlid that would terrorise the peaceful Bala Shark.

Breeding

Breeding Bala Sharks in the home aquarium is exceptionally difficult and very rarely achieved. The vast majority of Bala Sharks available in the aquarium trade are produced commercially in large outdoor pond facilities in Southeast Asia, where hormonal induction is used to trigger spawning. For the home aquarist, replicating the conditions necessary for natural spawning is a formidable challenge, and success stories are exceedingly rare.

The primary obstacle is the sheer space required. Bala Sharks need enormous volumes of water to feel comfortable enough to engage in reproductive behaviour. Breeding tanks of 1,500 litres or more are likely necessary, and even then, success is not guaranteed. The fish must also reach full sexual maturity, which typically occurs at around 3 to 4 years of age and a body length of approximately 15 centimetres or more.

Sexing Bala Sharks is extremely difficult. There are no reliable external sexual differences. Mature females may appear very slightly fuller in the abdomen when gravid, but this is subtle and unreliable as a sexing method. The best approach is to raise a group of at least six to eight individuals and hope that both sexes are represented.

In the wild, Bala Sharks are believed to be egg scatterers that spawn in open water during the wet season, possibly triggered by changes in water chemistry, temperature, and water flow associated with seasonal flooding. Attempts to replicate these triggers in captivity have included gradually lowering the water temperature by one to two degrees and then slowly raising it, increasing water flow, performing large water changes with slightly softer water, and feeding a high-protein conditioning diet of live and frozen foods for several weeks prior to spawning attempts.

If spawning does occur, the eggs are scattered freely and are non-adhesive. The parents show no parental care and will readily consume their own eggs if given the opportunity, so eggs must be collected promptly and moved to a separate rearing tank. The eggs hatch within approximately 24 to 48 hours, and the fry become free-swimming after a further two to three days. Fry can be fed infusoria, liquid fry food, and newly hatched brine shrimp (Artemia nauplii) as they grow.

Given the extreme difficulty of breeding Bala Sharks in captivity, most hobbyists do not attempt it. Those who are interested in the challenge should be prepared to invest in very large facilities and accept that success may never come. Commercial breeders utilise hormonal injections (typically with gonadotropins) to induce spawning, a practice that is not recommended or practical for home aquarists.

Common Diseases

Bala Sharks are reasonably hardy fish when kept in appropriate conditions, but they are susceptible to the same common freshwater diseases that affect most tropical species. Good husbandry, stable water parameters, and a nutritious diet are the best defences against disease.

White spot disease (ichthyophthirius, or “ich”) is one of the most frequently encountered illnesses in Bala Sharks, particularly in newly acquired or stressed fish. It presents as small white spots resembling grains of salt on the fins and body, often accompanied by flashing (rubbing against surfaces), clamped fins, and lethargy. Ich is highly treatable if caught early. Gradually raising the tank temperature to 28 to 30 degrees Celsius and treating with a proprietary white spot remedy will usually resolve the infection. Bala Sharks can be sensitive to certain medications, particularly those containing copper or malachite green at full dose. Always use medications at half dose initially and monitor the fish closely for adverse reactions.

Fin rot is another common ailment, typically caused by bacterial infection secondary to poor water quality, physical injury, or stress. It manifests as frayed, discoloured, or receding fin edges. Improving water quality through increased water changes is often sufficient to halt mild cases. More advanced fin rot may require treatment with antibacterial medications.

Dropsy, characterised by a bloated body and raised scales (giving a “pinecone” appearance), is a serious condition usually indicative of organ failure or severe bacterial infection. It is difficult to treat successfully and often fatal. Prevention through excellent water quality and a balanced diet is far more effective than attempting to cure advanced dropsy.

External parasites such as flukes (gill and skin flukes) can occasionally affect Bala Sharks, causing scratching, excess mucus production, and respiratory distress. Antiparasitic treatments formulated for freshwater fish are effective, but again, dose carefully and observe the fish closely during treatment.

Stress is a significant predisposing factor for virtually all diseases in Bala Sharks. Their skittish nature means they are more vulnerable to stress-related illness than many other species. Keeping them in appropriately sized groups, in sufficiently large tanks, with stable water conditions and a predictable routine, is the single most important thing a fishkeeper can do to prevent disease.

Quarantining new fish for a minimum of two to four weeks before introducing them to an established tank is strongly recommended. This allows the keeper to observe new arrivals for signs of disease and treat any issues without exposing the main display tank to potential pathogens.

FAQs

How big do Bala Sharks actually get?

Bala Sharks commonly reach 25 to 35 centimetres in captivity when housed in sufficiently large tanks with good water quality and a nutritious diet. Growth is relatively rapid in the first two years, with juveniles often doubling or tripling in size within the first 12 months. Fish kept in undersized tanks may appear to “stay small,” but this is the result of stunting, a harmful condition that shortens lifespan and causes internal organ damage. Always plan for the full adult size when deciding whether this species is appropriate for your setup.

Can I keep a single Bala Shark on its own?

It is strongly advised not to keep a single Bala Shark. They are shoaling fish that rely on the presence of conspecifics for security and normal behaviour. A solitary Bala Shark is typically nervous, stressed, and prone to erratic behaviour such as constant glass-surfing or hiding. A group of at least five is recommended. If you cannot accommodate a group of five or more in a suitably sized tank, it is better to choose a different species.

Are Bala Sharks aggressive?

No, Bala Sharks are peaceful fish that rarely show aggression towards tank mates. Minor chasing within a group is normal social behaviour and not a cause for concern. However, Bala Sharks are large and active, and their boisterous swimming can inadvertently stress smaller or slower species. They will also eat any fish or invertebrate small enough to fit in their mouths, which is opportunistic feeding rather than aggression.

Why does my Bala Shark keep jumping?

Jumping is a common and well-documented behaviour in Bala Sharks. It is most frequently triggered by stress, fright, or poor water conditions. Sudden changes in lighting, loud noises, vibrations from nearby foot traffic or slamming doors, and the presence of aggressive tank mates can all provoke jumping. Ensuring a secure, tight-fitting lid with no gaps is essential. Over time, as the fish settles into its environment and becomes accustomed to the household routine, jumping attempts typically decrease, though they never disappear entirely.

What is the minimum tank size for Bala Sharks?

The minimum recommended tank size for a group of five Bala Sharks is 570 litres, with a length of at least 180 centimetres. However, this should be viewed as the absolute minimum, not the ideal. Tanks of 750 litres or more provide a much better quality of life and allow the fish to exhibit more natural swimming behaviour. Many experienced Bala Shark keepers advocate for tanks of 1,000 litres or above, particularly for groups of six or more adults.

Tinfoil Barb Care Guide – Another large, active cyprinid with similar tank requirements, making it an excellent companion species for Bala Sharks.
Rainbow Shark Care Guide – A popular bottom-dwelling cyprinid that is often kept alongside Bala Sharks in large community setups.
Clown Loach Care Guide – A large, sociable loach species that shares many care requirements with Bala Sharks and makes a superb tank mate.