Red Fin Kadango Cichlid

Quick summary

The Red Fin Kadango Cichlid is a good fit for intermediate aquarists with a 300+ litre tank and hard, alkaline water, thanks to its peaceful-for-a-cichlid temperament and manageable care needs. Beginners should note it needs stable water quality, a proper Malawi diet to avoid bloat, and careful tank mate selection, so it’s best suited to those with some prior African cichlid experience.

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In this guide:

• Introduction
• Quick Stats
• Appearance
• Varieties and Morphs
• Natural Habitat
• Tank Size and Setup
• Water Parameters
• Filtration and Equipment
• Diet and Feeding
• Behaviour and Temperament
• Tank Mates
• Breeding
• Common Diseases
• FAQs

Introduction

The Red Fin Kadango Cichlid (Copadichromis borleyi) is one of the most visually striking Haplochromine cichlids native to Lake Malawi in East Africa. Prized by aquarists for its stunning combination of a metallic blue head that transitions into a deep red-maroon body and fins, this species has become a mainstay in the African cichlid hobby. Males in particular develop extraordinary colouration as they mature, creating a breathtaking display in appropriately sized aquariums.

Often confused with the Red Empress Cichlid (Protomelas taeniolatus), the Red Fin Kadango can be distinguished by the absence of a lateral stripe along its flanks. Where the Red Empress carries a prominent dark horizontal band, Copadichromis borleyi presents a cleaner, more uniform body colouration that blends seamlessly from blue to red. This distinction is important when purchasing, as the two species are sometimes mislabelled in the trade.

Copadichromis borleyi is a relatively peaceful cichlid by Lake Malawi standards, making it an excellent choice for community Haplochromine and Peacock cichlid setups. While it does grow to a respectable size, its calm demeanour and manageable care requirements place it within reach of intermediate aquarists who have some experience with African cichlids. Its open-water swimming habits, combined with its spectacular colouration, ensure it remains one of the most popular Malawi Haps in the hobby.

In this comprehensive care guide, you will find everything you need to know about keeping, feeding, breeding, and maintaining the Red Fin Kadango Cichlid in a home aquarium. Whether you are considering your first Haplochromine or looking to add a centrepiece fish to an established Malawi tank, this guide will help you provide the best possible care.

Appearance

The Red Fin Kadango Cichlid is a moderately deep-bodied fish with a slightly compressed profile typical of many Copadichromis species. Males and females differ dramatically in appearance, a feature known as sexual dichromatism, which becomes increasingly apparent as the fish mature past the juvenile stage.

Mature males are the true showpieces. The head and upper portion of the body display a vivid metallic blue that can range from a deep cobalt to a lighter electric blue depending on mood, lighting, and the specific collection point of the fish’s lineage. This blue colouration transitions into a rich red-maroon that covers the flanks, belly, and extends into all the fins. The dorsal fin is typically edged with a lighter blue or white margin, while the caudal and anal fins glow with a deep crimson or burgundy hue. The overall effect is a striking two-tone display that is difficult to rival among freshwater species.

One of the most important identifying features of the Red Fin Kadango is the absence of a lateral stripe. Unlike the superficially similar Red Empress Cichlid, Copadichromis borleyi lacks the dark horizontal band that runs along the midline of the body. This clean transition from blue to red gives the fish a more uniform and polished appearance. Some individuals may show faint vertical barring when stressed or during social interactions, but this is temporary and not a permanent feature.

Females are considerably more subdued in colouration. They are typically a silvery-grey to olive-brown with hints of iridescence, occasionally displaying a slightly pinkish or bronze cast along the body. Females may show faint vertical bars and have clear to slightly yellowish fins. While not as spectacular as the males, healthy females maintain a clean, well-proportioned appearance.

Juveniles of both sexes resemble females, being predominantly silver-grey. Males begin to show their adult colouration from around 6-8 cm in length, though full colour development may not occur until they reach sexual maturity and establish a position within the social hierarchy of the tank. Dominant males invariably display the most intense colours, while subordinate males may retain a more washed-out version of the adult pattern.

The eyes are relatively large, befitting a species that is primarily a planktivore in the wild, and the mouth is moderately sized with a slightly protrusible jaw designed for capturing small food items from the water column. Overall, the body shape is somewhat more elongated and less deep-bodied than many Mbuna species, reflecting its open-water lifestyle.

Varieties and Morphs

Copadichromis borleyi occurs at numerous locations around Lake Malawi, and geographical variants are frequently sold under their collection point names. These location variants can differ noticeably in the intensity and distribution of their blue and red colouration, making them highly sought after by enthusiasts.

The Kadango variant is arguably the most popular and widely available form in the hobby. Originating from the Kadango reef area along the Mozambique shoreline of Lake Malawi, this morph is characterised by an exceptionally deep red-maroon body colour and a vivid metallic blue head. The contrast between the two colours is particularly sharp in this variant, and it is generally considered the benchmark for the species in the aquarium trade.

The Mbenji Island variant is another commonly encountered form. Fish from this location tend to display a slightly more orange-red body colouration compared to the deep maroon of the Kadango morph. The blue on the head may also appear somewhat lighter or more turquoise in tone. This variant is sometimes sold simply as Copadichromis borleyi “Mbenji” and is a popular alternative for those seeking a slightly different colour palette.

The Golde variant, sometimes labelled as Copadichromis borleyi “Golde,” features a body colouration that leans more toward gold and yellow-orange rather than the classic red-maroon. The blue head is still present but may appear less intense, with the overall colour scheme offering a warmer, sunlit appearance. This variant is less commonly available but is prized for its uniqueness.

The Nkhata Bay variant presents yet another colour form, with males from this location often showing a more blended transition between blue and red, with the red extending higher up the body. Some specimens from Nkhata Bay exhibit a slightly more purple or plum-coloured body rather than pure red.

It is worth noting that hobbyists should avoid mixing geographical variants in the same tank to prevent hybridisation, which would dilute the distinct characteristics of each location morph. Reputable breeders and retailers will clearly label the collection point of their stock, and maintaining the integrity of these variants is considered an important responsibility within the African cichlid community.

Natural Habitat

Copadichromis borleyi is endemic to Lake Malawi, the ninth largest lake in the world, which spans the borders of Malawi, Mozambique, and Tanzania in the East African Rift Valley. The lake is renowned for its extraordinary diversity of cichlid species, with estimates suggesting over 800 species inhabit its waters, the vast majority of which are found nowhere else on earth.

In the wild, the Red Fin Kadango Cichlid inhabits the intermediate zone between the rocky shoreline and the open water. It is typically found at depths ranging from 5 to 25 metres, though it has been recorded at greater depths. Unlike the rock-dwelling Mbuna cichlids that cling closely to the rocky substrate, Copadichromis borleyi is a semi-pelagic species that spends much of its time in the water column above rocky and sandy substrates. It forms loose shoals that move through the open water in search of food, occasionally venturing close to rocky outcrops for shelter.

The water of Lake Malawi is characteristically hard and alkaline, with a pH typically between 7.7 and 8.6, and general hardness ranging from 4 to 6 dGH in some areas and higher in others. The lake maintains a remarkably stable temperature throughout much of its volume, averaging around 24-27 degrees Celsius. The water is exceptionally clear with high visibility, and the mineral content remains consistent due to the lake’s immense volume and limited outflow.

The substrate in the areas where Copadichromis borleyi is found consists of a mixture of sand and scattered rocks, often with large boulders providing territorial markers and spawning sites. The open water above these areas is where the species primarily feeds, using its keen eyesight and protrusible mouth to pluck zooplankton and other small organisms from the water column.

Breeding males establish territories near large rocks or on sandy patches, where they construct shallow sand craters to attract females. The social structure in the wild is less rigidly territorial than in many Mbuna species, with males primarily defending their spawning sites while females and non-breeding males move freely through the water column in feeding aggregations.

Tank Size and Setup

Given its adult size and active swimming behaviour, the Red Fin Kadango Cichlid requires a spacious aquarium. A minimum tank size of 300 litres is recommended for a single male with a small harem of females. For a mixed Haplochromine community, a tank of 450 litres or more is strongly advisable, as this provides sufficient space for multiple species to establish territories without excessive conflict.

Tank dimensions are just as important as volume. A tank measuring at least 150 cm in length is ideal, as this provides ample swimming space for what is essentially a mid-water to open-water species. Tanks that are too narrow or too short will restrict the fish’s natural behaviour and may increase aggression as individuals cannot maintain adequate distance from one another.

The substrate should consist of fine to medium-grade sand, preferably in a light colour such as white or cream, which mirrors the sandy areas of Lake Malawi and helps to show off the fish’s colours to best effect. Avoid sharp gravel or dark substrates, as the former can damage the fish if they dig (which they occasionally do) and the latter can cause the fish to appear washed out.

Rockwork is an important component of the aquascape, but it should be arranged differently from a typical Mbuna setup. Rather than creating a densely packed rock wall from floor to surface, the rocks should be positioned to create scattered structures with plenty of open swimming space between them. Large, stable rock formations placed at the back and sides of the tank, with open areas in the centre and front, provide an excellent layout. This mimics the intermediate habitat where Copadichromis borleyi naturally occurs and allows the fish to swim freely while still offering retreat points for subordinate individuals.

Ensure all rockwork is securely positioned, either resting directly on the tank base before the substrate is added, or stabilised with aquarium-safe silicone. This prevents catastrophic collapses if the fish dig around the base of the structures.

Live plants are not essential and many Malawi keepers opt for a plant-free setup. However, if you wish to include vegetation, hardy species such as Anubias and Vallisneria can survive in the hard, alkaline water, though they may be occasionally nibbled. Attaching plants to rocks rather than planting them in the substrate will reduce disturbance from any digging activity.

Lighting should be moderate to bright, as this encourages the fish to display their best colours and simulates the clear, sunlit waters of Lake Malawi. A timer-controlled lighting schedule of 8 to 10 hours per day provides a consistent photoperiod. A tightly fitting lid or cover is recommended, as cichlids can occasionally jump, particularly when startled or during aggressive encounters.

Water Parameters

Maintaining stable, high-quality water conditions is essential for the health and colouration of the Red Fin Kadango Cichlid. As a Lake Malawi species, it requires hard, alkaline water that replicates the mineral-rich conditions of its native environment. Consistency is arguably more important than hitting an exact number – sudden fluctuations in pH or temperature are more harmful than being slightly outside the ideal range.

For aquarists whose tap water is naturally soft and acidic, buffering the water to achieve the correct hardness and pH is necessary. Crushed coral, aragonite sand, or commercially available Malawi buffer salts can be used to raise and stabilise both the pH and mineral content. Adding these to the substrate or filter media provides a passive and consistent method of buffering.

Regular water changes of 25-30% weekly are highly recommended to keep nitrate levels low and maintain overall water quality. Copadichromis borleyi, like most Malawi cichlids, is sensitive to elevated nitrate levels, and chronic exposure to concentrations above 40 ppm can lead to reduced colouration, suppressed immune function, and susceptibility to disease. Aim to keep nitrates below 20 ppm for optimal health and colour.

Use a reliable liquid test kit to monitor ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, and hardness on a regular basis. Test weekly during routine maintenance, and more frequently if you notice any changes in fish behaviour or appearance. A digital thermometer provides more accurate temperature readings than stick-on strip thermometers and is a worthwhile investment.

Filtration and Equipment

Robust filtration is non-negotiable for a Malawi cichlid tank. The Red Fin Kadango Cichlid produces a moderate bioload, and when kept in a community setting with other cichlids, the total waste output can be substantial. A filtration system capable of turning over the tank volume at least 6-8 times per hour is recommended. For a 300-litre tank, this means a total flow rate of at least 1,800-2,400 litres per hour.

External canister filters are the preferred choice for most Malawi setups, as they offer large media capacity, reliable flow rates, and easy maintenance access. Running two smaller filters rather than one large unit provides redundancy – if one filter requires servicing, the other continues to maintain biological filtration. This approach also allows you to stagger filter maintenance, cleaning one while the other retains its full complement of beneficial bacteria.

Filter media should include a combination of mechanical filtration (sponges and filter floss) to remove particulate matter, biological media (ceramic rings, sintered glass, or bio-balls) to house nitrifying bacteria, and optionally chemical media (activated carbon or phosphate remover) for additional water polishing. The biological component should make up the largest proportion of the media, as this is where the critical nitrogen cycle processing occurs.

A reliable heater is essential to maintain the tropical temperatures this species requires. For a 300-litre tank, a 200-300 watt heater, or two smaller heaters of 150 watts each positioned at opposite ends of the tank, will provide consistent and even heating. Using a heater guard is advisable, as cichlids can occasionally damage or dislodge an unprotected heater, with potentially dangerous consequences.

An air pump with an airstone or a spray bar from the canister filter outlet will provide adequate surface agitation to ensure good gas exchange and well-oxygenated water. Lake Malawi is a well-oxygenated environment, and replicating this in the aquarium supports both the health of the fish and the efficiency of the biological filtration.

A quality water conditioner should be used with every water change to neutralise chlorine, chloramine, and heavy metals in the tap water. If your local water supply is particularly variable in quality, consider investing in an RO (reverse osmosis) unit and remineralising the water to the correct parameters using a Malawi salt mix. This provides the ultimate control over water chemistry.

Diet and Feeding

In the wild, Copadichromis borleyi is primarily a planktivore, feeding on zooplankton and phytoplankton in the open water column. It also consumes small invertebrates, insect larvae, and minute crustaceans. This dietary profile is important to understand, as it informs the best feeding strategy in captivity.

A high-quality cichlid pellet or flake food designed for Malawi Haplochromines should form the staple diet. Look for products that list whole fish meal, spirulina, or krill as primary ingredients and avoid those with excessive fillers such as wheat or soy. Pellet sizes should be appropriate for the fish’s mouth – medium-sized pellets of 2-3 mm are suitable for adults, while smaller granules may be needed for juveniles.

Supplementary foods should be offered regularly to provide variety and enhance colouration. Frozen foods such as brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, cyclops, and daphnia are excellent choices and are eagerly accepted. These protein-rich foods mimic the planktonic organisms that form the species’ natural diet and help to bring out the vibrant reds and blues in mature males.

Spirulina-based flakes or pellets are a valuable addition to the diet, providing vegetable matter and carotenoid pigments that support colour development. While Copadichromis borleyi is not as herbivorous as many Mbuna species, it does benefit from some plant-based content in its diet. Blanched vegetables such as spinach, courgette, or peas can be offered occasionally as a supplementary food source.

Avoid feeding mammalian proteins such as beefheart or liver, as these contain fats that Malawi cichlids cannot properly metabolise. Such foods can lead to digestive issues and the potentially fatal condition known as Malawi bloat. Similarly, avoid bloodworms as a regular food, as they have been associated with digestive problems in Haplochromine cichlids, though occasional small offerings are generally tolerated.

Feed two to three times daily in quantities that can be consumed within two to three minutes. Overfeeding is a common mistake that leads to poor water quality and health issues. On one day per week, consider fasting the fish entirely, as this allows the digestive system to clear and can help prevent bloat.

Behaviour and Temperament

The Red Fin Kadango Cichlid is one of the more peaceful Haplochromine cichlids, making it a popular choice for mixed Malawi community tanks. However, “peaceful” is a relative term in the context of African cichlids, and some understanding of its behavioural patterns is necessary to maintain harmony in the aquarium.

Males are mildly territorial, particularly during breeding periods, but their aggression is generally directed at conspecific males rather than other species. A dominant male will claim a territory around a rock or a section of the tank floor and display vigorously to passing females, flaring his fins and intensifying his colours to their maximum brilliance. Subordinate males may be chased from this territory but are rarely seriously injured, provided the tank is large enough for them to retreat.

The recommended sex ratio is one male to three or four females. This disperses the male’s breeding attention across multiple females and prevents any single female from being excessively harassed. Keeping multiple males in the same tank is possible in larger setups of 450 litres or more, provided there are sufficient sight breaks and territorial boundaries to prevent constant conflict.

Copadichromis borleyi is an active swimmer that spends much of its time in the mid-water to upper regions of the tank. Unlike bottom-dwelling or rock-hugging species, it moves through the open water with a confident, leisurely swimming pattern, making it one of the more visible and engaging species in a Malawi community. Its open-water habits also mean it is less likely to engage in territorial disputes with rock-dwelling Mbuna, which tend to occupy different spatial niches in the aquarium.

Stress in this species is often indicated by colour fading, hiding, rapid breathing, or the appearance of dark vertical bars on the body. If a fish displays these signs persistently, it may be being bullied by tank mates, or there may be an underlying water quality issue that needs to be addressed. Providing adequate hiding places, maintaining appropriate stocking levels, and keeping the water parameters stable will minimise stress-related problems.

This species is not a fin nipper and does not typically bother smaller fish, though very small tank mates may be at risk of predation simply due to the size difference. It coexists well with other similarly sized, peaceful to mildly aggressive Haplochromines and Peacock cichlids.

Tank Mates

Selecting appropriate tank mates for the Red Fin Kadango Cichlid requires an understanding of the social dynamics of Lake Malawi cichlids. The ideal companions are species of similar size and temperament that occupy different ecological niches or colour patterns, thereby reducing the likelihood of territorial disputes and cross-species aggression. Avoid housing it with highly aggressive Mbuna species or overly timid fish that may be stressed by the moderate activity level of a Malawi community.

Good tank mates

• Yellow Lab Cichlid – One of the least aggressive Mbuna, its yellow colouration does not conflict with the Red Fin Kadango’s colour pattern, and it generally occupies the lower rock zone.
• Flavescent Peacock Cichlid – A similarly peaceful Aulonocara species that occupies the sandy substrate zone, complementing the Kadango’s mid-water swimming habits.
• Blue Dolphin Cichlid – A large, docile Haplochromine that shares a peaceful temperament and coexists well in spacious tanks.
• Red Empress Cichlid – Despite superficial colour similarities, these two species generally coexist peacefully in tanks of 450 litres or more with adequate space.
• Eureka Red Peacock Cichlid – A colourful and moderately peaceful Peacock that adds variety to the tank without causing significant aggression issues.
• Sulphur Head Hap – A mildly tempered Haplochromine with a distinctly different colour pattern that reduces the chance of territorial conflict.
• Synodontis multipunctatus – A Lake Malawi/Tanganyika catfish that occupies the bottom of the tank and provides a useful clean-up role without competing for territory.
• Deep Water Hap – A peaceful Haplochromine that shares similar water column preferences but differs enough in colour to avoid confusion.

Fish to avoid

• Auratus Cichlid – An extremely aggressive Mbuna that will relentlessly harass the more peaceful Red Fin Kadango, potentially causing injury or death.
• Red Zebra Cichlid – A moderately aggressive Mbuna whose assertive territorial behaviour can overwhelm the calmer Copadichromis borleyi.
• Venustus Cichlid – A large predatory Haplochromine that may prey on smaller tank mates and dominate food resources aggressively.
• Livingston’s Cichlid – A sit-and-wait predator that grows large and may attempt to consume smaller or juvenile Red Fin Kadango.
• Bumblebee Cichlid – A deceptively aggressive species that becomes increasingly hostile as it matures, creating constant stress for more peaceful tank mates.
• Oscar Cichlid – A South American cichlid requiring entirely different water parameters and possessing a temperament and size that make it wholly incompatible.
• Neon Tetra – Far too small and delicate for a Malawi cichlid tank, it would be quickly consumed or stressed to death by the active cichlids.
• White Spotted Cichlid – A Lake Tanganyika species requiring different water chemistry and social structures, and prone to aggression that disrupts Malawi communities.

Breeding

Copadichromis borleyi is a maternal mouthbrooder, meaning the female carries the fertilised eggs and developing fry in her buccal cavity until they are ready to be released as free-swimming juveniles. Breeding in captivity is achievable for aquarists with moderate experience and an appropriately set-up tank.

To encourage breeding, maintain a group with a ratio of one male to three or four females. The male will select a territory, typically near a flat rock or a cleared area of sand, and begin displaying to attract females. His courtship display involves intensified colouration, lateral fin flaring, and a characteristic shimmying or quivering motion designed to entice a receptive female to his chosen spawning site.

When a female is ready to spawn, she follows the male to his territory. The pair engage in the typical Haplochromine “T-position” spawning behaviour, where the female lays a small batch of eggs on the substrate and immediately turns to collect them in her mouth. The male presents the egg spots on his anal fin, and as the female mouths these spots, she takes in milt, fertilising the eggs she is carrying. This process is repeated over several rounds until spawning is complete, with a typical clutch size ranging from 20 to 60 eggs depending on the size and maturity of the female.

The female will carry the eggs and developing fry for approximately 18 to 24 days. During this period, she will not eat, and it is important that she is not subjected to undue stress from aggressive tank mates, as this can cause her to spit the brood prematurely. Some breeders choose to strip the eggs from the female’s mouth after 14-16 days and tumble them artificially in a purpose-built egg tumbler, which can improve survival rates and reduce the physical toll on the female.

If you choose to allow the female to carry to full term, she will release free-swimming fry that are approximately 8-10 mm in length. At this stage, the fry are large enough to accept crushed flake food, baby brine shrimp (Artemia nauplii), and finely powdered fry food. If left in the main tank, the fry will be at significant risk of predation from other fish, so a separate grow-out tank of at least 40-60 litres is strongly recommended for raising them to a size where they can be safely reintroduced.

Conditioning the breeding group with high-quality foods, maintaining stable water parameters, and performing regular water changes can all help to stimulate spawning. Raising the temperature by one or two degrees and performing a slightly larger than usual water change can sometimes trigger spawning behaviour in a well-conditioned group.

Common Diseases

The Red Fin Kadango Cichlid is a reasonably hardy species when kept in appropriate conditions, but like all aquarium fish, it is susceptible to a number of diseases, particularly when water quality deteriorates or the fish is subjected to chronic stress.

Malawi bloat is perhaps the most feared disease among Malawi cichlid keepers. It presents with symptoms including abdominal swelling, loss of appetite, lethargy, rapid breathing, and stringy white faeces. The exact cause is debated, but it is strongly associated with poor diet (particularly the inclusion of mammalian fats or excessive protein), stress, and poor water quality. Treatment involves isolating the affected fish, fasting for 24-48 hours, and administering a metronidazole-based medication. Prevention through proper diet and water maintenance is far more effective than attempting to cure an advanced case.

Ich (white spot disease), caused by the protozoan parasite Ichthyophthirius multifiliis, is one of the most common diseases in freshwater aquaria. It manifests as small white spots on the body and fins, accompanied by flashing (rubbing against surfaces), clamped fins, and lethargy. Treatment involves raising the temperature to 28-30 degrees Celsius and adding an aquarium-safe ich treatment. Lake Malawi cichlids are generally tolerant of the salt-based treatments that can be effective against ich.

Bacterial infections, including fin rot, skin ulcers, and internal infections, can occur when fish are injured during territorial disputes or when the immune system is compromised by poor water quality. Keeping nitrate levels low, maintaining a clean substrate, and avoiding overstocking are the best preventative measures. Antibiotic treatments may be necessary for severe bacterial infections, and these should be administered in a hospital tank to avoid disrupting the biological filtration in the main aquarium.

Hexamita, an internal parasitic infection related to the protozoan Hexamita spp., can cause hole-in-the-head disease (lateral line erosion) and is sometimes seen in Malawi cichlids. Symptoms include small pits or erosions on the head and along the lateral line, accompanied by reduced appetite and colour fading. Metronidazole is the standard treatment, and improving water quality and diet often resolves mild cases.

Quarantining all new fish for a minimum of two to four weeks before introducing them to an established tank is one of the most effective measures you can take to prevent disease outbreaks. During the quarantine period, observe the new fish closely for any signs of illness and treat as necessary before they have the opportunity to infect existing stock.

FAQs

How can I tell the difference between a Red Fin Kadango and a Red Empress Cichlid?

The most reliable distinguishing feature is the lateral stripe. The Red Empress Cichlid (Protomelas taeniolatus) displays a prominent dark horizontal band running along the midline of the body, while the Red Fin Kadango (Copadichromis borleyi) lacks this stripe entirely,

Related Guides

• Checkerboard Dwarf Cichlid – Tank Setup, Feeding and Breeding – Another cichlid species guide that covers territory management and breeding behaviour useful for comparison with Malawi cichlid setups.
• Demon Eartheater – Tank Setup, Feeding and Breeding – A fellow large cichlid requiring spacious tanks and careful water management, offering helpful parallels for keepers of sizeable cichlid species.
• Altum Angelfish – Tank Setup, Feeding and Breeding – Covers care for another tall-bodied, visually striking cichlid that demands stable water parameters and a roomy aquarium.
• Altifron Eartheater – Tank Setup, Feeding and Breeding – A large, relatively peaceful cichlid whose dietary and filtration requirements share similarities with keeping bigger Haplochromine species.
• L168 Butterfly Pleco – Tank Setup, Feeding and Breeding – A popular pleco species that can serve as a compatible bottom-dwelling addition to large cichlid community tanks.