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Betta smaragdina Care Guide – Tank Setup, Feeding and Breeding

ByTankora

Quick summary

Betta smaragdina suits aquarists with some fishkeeping experience who want a hardy, moderately challenging wild betta with a calmer temperament than domestic Betta splendens, but it still needs a heavily planted 40-litre-plus tank, warm soft acidic water, and must be kept singly or with females only, never with other bettas. It is not an ideal first fish, as its moderate care and breeding difficulty, jumping tendency, and territorial nature require a bit more attention than typical pet-shop bettas.

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In this guide:

Introduction

Betta smaragdina, commonly known as the Emerald Betta or Emerald Green Betta, is a wild-type Betta species that has steadily gained popularity among aquarists who appreciate the raw, unaltered beauty of naturally occurring fish. Unlike the ubiquitous Betta splendens found in pet shops around the world – with their flowing, exaggerated finnage and selectively bred colour palettes – Betta smaragdina presents a more compact, athletic build adorned with stunning iridescent green and blue scales that shimmer under aquarium lighting like scattered gemstones.

Native to the rice paddies, swamps, and shallow waterways of northeastern Thailand (the Isan region) and parts of Laos, this species occupies a fascinating position in the broader Betta genus. It is one of the recognised parent species used in the creation of the increasingly popular “Alien Betta” hybrids, which combine traits of smaragdina with other wild Betta species, most notably Betta splendens and Betta stiktos. However, the pure species itself is a thoroughly rewarding fish to keep, offering a window into the natural behaviours and ecology of wild bettas that domesticated varieties have long since departed from.

Betta smaragdina is often described as sitting somewhere between Betta imbellis (the Peaceful Betta) and Betta splendens in terms of temperament. It is more territorial and assertive than B. imbellis, yet it generally lacks the extreme aggression that centuries of selective breeding have amplified in domestic splendens. This intermediate temperament, combined with relatively modest care requirements, makes it an excellent choice for aquarists looking to step beyond common betta varieties and explore the world of wild-type species. Throughout this guide, we will cover everything you need to know to provide excellent care for this remarkable fish.

Quick Stats

Scientific name Betta smaragdina
Common names Emerald Betta, Emerald Green Betta, Blue Betta, Mekong Fighting Fish
Family Osphronemidae
Origin Northeastern Thailand (Isan region) and Laos
Adult size 5-7 cm (2-2.8 inches)
Lifespan 3-5 years
Difficulty Moderate
Breeding difficulty Moderate
Temperature 22-28 °C
pH range 6.0-7.5
General hardness (GH) 2-12 dGH
Carbonate hardness (KH) 1-8 dKH
Minimum tank size 40 litres
Conservation status Least Concern (IUCN)

Appearance

Betta smaragdina is, without exaggeration, one of the most visually striking wild Betta species available in the aquarium hobby. The species name “smaragdina” derives from the Latin word for emerald, and this is immediately apparent when observing a healthy specimen. Males display an intense iridescent green-blue colouration across their scales, which can shift between deep emerald green, teal, and vivid blue depending on the angle of light and the fish’s mood. Each scale is individually highlighted with this metallic sheen, creating an almost snake-skin-like pattern across the body that is both intricate and mesmerising.

The body shape of Betta smaragdina is noticeably more streamlined and robust than that of domesticated Betta splendens. These are athletic, agile fish built for navigating dense vegetation and shallow waterways. The fins, while not as elaborate as those of selectively bred bettas, are nonetheless attractive. Males possess moderately elongated anal and caudal fins with a rounded or slightly pointed shape. The caudal fin often displays dark banding or a striking red-to-black edging, while the anal fin may extend into a graceful point. The dorsal fin is relatively short compared to domestic bettas but features the same iridescent scaling.

The head and gill covers (opercula) of males are particularly impressive. When flaring, the gill covers extend to reveal bright iridescent patches that flash in the light – a display designed to intimidate rivals and impress potential mates. The overall head shape is slightly broader and more robust than some other wild species, lending the fish a powerful, confident appearance.

Females are considerably more subdued in colouration, as is typical within the Betta genus. They display a brownish to olive-green base colour with faint horizontal barring. Some females may show hints of iridescent scaling, particularly on the gill covers and along the lateral line, but this is far less pronounced than in males. Females also have noticeably shorter fins and a more compact body profile. A visible ovipositor (egg spot) is typically present near the ventral fin area, which can help with sex identification in younger or less colourful individuals.

Juvenile Betta smaragdina of both sexes tend to be relatively drab, with the full iridescent colouration in males typically developing as they approach sexual maturity at around three to four months of age. The intensity of colouration can also vary depending on the specific locale or population the fish originates from, with some populations displaying more green-dominant hues and others leaning towards blue.

Varieties and Morphs

Unlike Betta splendens, which has been selectively bred into countless colour forms and fin types, Betta smaragdina remains largely in its wild-type form within the hobby. However, there are some notable variations and considerations worth discussing.

The most significant variations in Betta smaragdina are locale-based differences. Fish from different geographic populations across northeastern Thailand and Laos can exhibit subtle but noticeable differences in colouration. Some populations produce males with predominantly green iridescence, while others lean more heavily towards blue or even copper-toned hues. These locale variants are sometimes sold with their collection location noted – for example, “Betta smaragdina Nong Khai” or “Betta smaragdina Udon Thani” – and dedicated wild betta enthusiasts often seek out specific locales for their collections.

A naturally occurring colour variant sometimes referred to as “Guitar” has gained attention in the hobby. These fish display a particularly striking pattern where the iridescent scaling creates a bold, defined patterning that stands out even among typical specimens. The exact genetic basis for this variation is not fully characterised, but it is sought after by breeders and collectors.

There is also a copper or red-wash variant that appears in some populations, where males display warmer reddish or coppery tones alongside the typical green-blue iridescence. These are natural colour expressions rather than the result of line breeding, though selective pairing of particularly vibrant individuals has occurred within the hobby to enhance these traits.

It is important to mention the “Alien Betta” in this context, as Betta smaragdina is one of the key parent species used to create these popular hybrids. Alien Bettas are typically crosses between B. smaragdina (or B. stiktos) and domestic B. splendens, producing fish with enhanced iridescent scaling across the entire body while retaining shorter, more manageable finnage. While Alien Bettas are attractive fish in their own right, they should not be confused with pure Betta smaragdina, and responsible keepers should avoid crossing hybrid fish back into pure wild-type lines to preserve genetic integrity.

Natural Habitat

Betta smaragdina is found across the Khorat Plateau region of northeastern Thailand, an area locally known as Isan, as well as parts of neighbouring Laos. This region is characterised by a tropical monsoon climate with distinct wet and dry seasons, and the habitats occupied by this species reflect this seasonal variability. The fish are commonly found in rice paddies, shallow marshes, roadside ditches, temporary pools, and the margins of slow-moving streams and rivers within the Mekong River basin.

The typical habitat is shallow – often just 10 to 30 centimetres deep – with abundant emergent and submerged vegetation. Water in these environments is frequently stained with tannins from decomposing plant matter, creating a slightly acidic, soft-water environment with a tea-like tint. The substrate is usually composed of mud or fine silt, and the water surface is often covered with floating plants, duckweed, or dense mats of vegetation that provide both shelter and access to the atmospheric air these labyrinth fish require.

During the dry season, many of these habitats contract significantly or dry up entirely, forcing fish into increasingly small pools where they must tolerate elevated temperatures, reduced oxygen levels, and higher concentrations of dissolved waste. This evolutionary pressure has contributed to the development of the labyrinth organ – a specialised respiratory structure that allows Betta smaragdina to breathe atmospheric air directly from the surface, enabling survival in oxygen-depleted waters that would be lethal to many other fish species.

The seasonal flooding and drying cycle also plays a role in the species’ reproductive behaviour and territorial dynamics. During the wet season, when habitats expand, males establish territories among emergent vegetation and construct bubble nests on the surface, often under overhanging leaves or floating plant matter that provides shelter from rain and disturbance. Understanding these natural conditions is essential for replicating appropriate captive environments and encouraging natural behaviours in the aquarium.

Tank Size and Setup

For a single male Betta smaragdina, a minimum tank size of 40 litres is recommended. While wild bettas can survive in very small volumes of water in nature, providing a more generous aquarium allows the fish to display natural behaviours, maintain better water quality, and reduces stress. If keeping a pair or a small group (one male with two or more females), a tank of 60 to 80 litres or larger is advisable, with ample visual barriers to reduce territorial stress.

The tank setup should aim to replicate the shallow, densely vegetated habitats this species occupies in the wild. A dark, fine-grained substrate such as sand or fine gravel works well and helps to show off the fish’s iridescent colouration. Aquarium soil designed for planted tanks is also an excellent choice if you intend to grow live plants, which is strongly recommended for this species.

Dense planting is one of the most important aspects of a Betta smaragdina setup. Include a mix of stem plants such as Hygrophila, Rotala, or Limnophila to provide mid-water cover, along with floating plants like Salvinia, Frogbit, or Red Root Floaters to dim the lighting and provide surface cover. The floating plants serve a dual purpose: they create the shaded, sheltered conditions the fish prefers, and they provide a foundation upon which males can build their bubble nests. Cryptocoryne species make excellent choices for foreground and midground planting, as they thrive in similar water conditions.

Hardscape elements such as driftwood, dried leaf litter (Indian almond leaves or similar), and coconut shell caves provide additional hiding spots and contribute beneficial tannins to the water. Leaf litter in particular helps to create a more natural, blackwater-like environment that closely mirrors the species’ wild habitat. Smooth rocks or small terracotta pots can also serve as hiding spots and territorial markers.

A secure, tight-fitting lid is essential. Like all Betta species, B. smaragdina is an accomplished jumper, and wild-type bettas tend to be even more prone to jumping than their domesticated counterparts. Any gaps around filter inlets, heater cables, or other equipment should be covered or blocked. Maintaining a small air gap between the water surface and the lid (approximately 2-3 cm) is important, as this allows the fish to access humid atmospheric air via its labyrinth organ without risk of chilling.

Lighting should be moderate to subdued. Intense overhead lighting can stress wild bettas and wash out their colours. The floating plant cover mentioned above will naturally diffuse light, creating dappled conditions that encourage the fish to come out into the open and display its best colouration.

Water Parameters

Betta smaragdina is a reasonably adaptable species in terms of water chemistry, but providing conditions that closely match its natural habitat will result in the best health, colouration, and behaviour. The species originates from warm, soft, slightly acidic waters, and while it can tolerate a range of conditions, extremes should be avoided.

Temperature 22-28 °C
pH 6.0-7.5
General hardness (GH) 2-12 dGH
Carbonate hardness (KH) 1-8 dKH
Ammonia 0 ppm
Nitrite 0 ppm
Nitrate Below 20 ppm

A temperature in the range of 24-26 °C is ideal for general maintenance, with slightly warmer temperatures (26-28 °C) being beneficial for encouraging breeding behaviour. Consistency is more important than hitting an exact number – avoid rapid temperature fluctuations, which can stress the fish and compromise its immune system.

The addition of Indian almond leaves (Terminalia catappa), alder cones, or other botanical materials is highly beneficial for this species. These release tannins and humic acids into the water, gently lowering pH, softening the water, and imparting mild antibacterial and antifungal properties. The resulting tannin-stained water also creates a more natural aesthetic that complements the fish’s appearance and encourages confident behaviour.

Regular water changes of 15-25% weekly are recommended to maintain water quality. When performing water changes, ensure that the replacement water is temperature-matched and dechlorinated. If your tap water is particularly hard or alkaline, consider using a blend of reverse osmosis (RO) water and tap water to achieve the desired parameters. Stability should always be prioritised over chasing precise numbers.

Filtration and Equipment

Filtration for a Betta smaragdina tank should prioritise gentle water movement. In the wild, this species inhabits still or very slow-moving waters, and strong currents will cause stress, exhaust the fish, and can damage delicate finnage. A sponge filter is widely considered the ideal choice for Betta smaragdina, as it provides effective biological and mechanical filtration with minimal water disturbance. Air-driven sponge filters have the additional benefit of gently oxygenating the surface layer, though this is less critical for labyrinth fish that can breathe atmospheric air.

If using a hang-on-back (HOB) filter or small internal filter, ensure the flow rate can be adjusted to its lowest setting, or use a baffle (such as a piece of filter sponge wedged into the outflow) to diffuse the current. The goal is clean, well-filtered water without creating a river-like flow across the tank.

A reliable, adjustable heater is essential unless you live in a region where room temperatures consistently remain within the species’ preferred range. A heater rated for the tank’s volume, paired with an accurate thermometer (digital thermometers are recommended over stick-on strip types), allows you to maintain stable temperatures. Position the heater near the filter outflow or an area of gentle circulation to ensure even heat distribution.

Lighting should be appropriate for any live plants in the tank but does not need to be intense. A standard LED aquarium light on a timer set for 8-10 hours per day is sufficient. If the light is too bright for the fish’s comfort, floating plants will provide natural shading. Avoid leaving lights on for extended periods, as this can promote excessive algae growth and disrupt the fish’s natural day-night cycle.

An air pump is only necessary if using a sponge filter. Surface agitation should be kept minimal. Some keepers choose to run an air pump on a timer, providing gentle aeration during daylight hours and turning it off at night to create calmer surface conditions. This is entirely optional but can be beneficial in warmer climates where dissolved oxygen levels may drop.

Diet and Feeding

Betta smaragdina is a carnivorous species in the wild, feeding primarily on small invertebrates, insect larvae, zooplankton, and tiny crustaceans found among aquatic vegetation and at the water’s surface. In captivity, a varied diet that reflects these natural preferences will promote the best health, colouration, and vitality.

High-quality micro pellets or small granules formulated specifically for bettas or small carnivorous fish should form the staple of the diet. Look for products with whole fish, insect meal, or crustacean-based ingredients listed as the primary components, and avoid foods heavy in grain-based fillers. The pellets should be small enough for the fish to consume comfortably – Betta smaragdina has a smaller mouth than many domestic splendens varieties.

Live and frozen foods should be offered regularly to supplement the staple diet and provide enrichment. Excellent options include:

  • Daphnia (live or frozen) – excellent for digestion and nutrition
  • Artemia (brine shrimp) – readily accepted, available live, frozen, or as nauplii
  • Mosquito larvae (live) – a natural food source that elicits strong feeding responses
  • Bloodworms (frozen or live) – highly palatable but should be offered sparingly as a treat due to their high fat content
  • Grindal worms and micro worms – particularly useful for conditioning breeding pairs
  • Cyclops (frozen) – small enough for all sizes and nutritionally excellent

Feed small amounts once or twice daily, offering only what the fish can consume within two to three minutes. Betta smaragdina, like most bettas, can be prone to overeating and subsequent digestive issues if fed excessively. Incorporating one fasting day per week can help prevent bloating and maintain digestive health.

Wild-type bettas can sometimes be initially reluctant to accept dry foods, particularly if they have been wild-caught or raised on live foods. In these cases, begin with live or frozen offerings and gradually introduce high-quality pellets alongside the live food until the fish learns to accept them. Most individuals adapt to prepared foods within a week or two with patience.

Behaviour and Temperament

Betta smaragdina occupies an interesting behavioural middle ground within the Betta splendens complex. It is decidedly more territorial and assertive than Betta imbellis (often called the Peaceful Betta), but it generally displays less extreme aggression than domesticated Betta splendens, which have been selectively bred for fighting for centuries. That said, it would be a mistake to consider this species docile – males are territorial fish that will vigorously defend their chosen area, particularly during breeding periods.

Male-to-male aggression is the primary behavioural concern with this species. Two males should not be housed together in a standard-sized aquarium unless the tank is very large (150 litres or more) with extensive visual barriers and dense planting that allows each male to establish a separate territory without constant visual contact. Even in spacious setups, careful monitoring is essential, as disputes can escalate quickly and result in significant injury or death.

Interactions between males and females are generally less problematic outside of breeding contexts, though males may occasionally chase females, particularly if the male is in breeding condition and the female is not receptive. Providing ample hiding spots and plant cover allows females to retreat and avoid harassment. Some keepers successfully maintain a harem-style setup with one male and two to three females in a well-planted tank of 60 litres or more.

Betta smaragdina is generally less aggressive towards non-conspecific tank mates than domestic bettas, though individual temperament varies. The species tends to be curious and active, spending time patrolling its territory, investigating plants and decor, and regularly visiting the water surface to gulp air. Males will frequently flare at their own reflection or at nearby movement, displaying the full extent of their gill cover iridescence – a behaviour that is both natural and visually spectacular.

Wild-type bettas are typically more skittish and less “personable” than domesticated bettas, at least initially. They may dart for cover when approached or when the tank light is suddenly turned on. With time, patience, and consistent feeding routines, most individuals become more confident and may even learn to recognise their keeper. Providing a dimly lit, heavily planted environment with minimal disturbance goes a long way towards encouraging natural, relaxed behaviour.

Bubble nest building is a fascinating behaviour to observe. Males construct floating nests of air bubbles, often incorporating plant material, at the water’s surface beneath leaves or floating plants. Nest building can occur even in the absence of females and is generally a sign that the male is healthy, comfortable, and in good condition.

Tank Mates

Selecting appropriate tank mates for Betta smaragdina requires careful consideration of temperament, size, and environmental preferences. While this species is generally less aggressive towards heterospecific tank mates than domestic bettas, it remains a territorial fish that can become stressed or aggressive in the wrong company. Ideal tank mates are peaceful, small, non-fin-nipping species that occupy different areas of the water column and will not outcompete the betta for food or territory. Avoid brightly coloured or long-finned species that might be mistaken for rival bettas.

Good tank mates

  • Harlequin Rasbora – A peaceful, appropriately sized schooling fish that occupies the mid-water zone and shares similar water parameter preferences.
  • Ember Tetra – Tiny and non-aggressive, these warm-toned tetras add subtle colour without provoking territorial behaviour.
  • Pygmy Corydoras – Diminutive bottom-dwellers that stay out of the betta’s preferred territory and help keep the substrate clean.
  • Kuhli Loach – A shy, nocturnal bottom-dweller that rarely interacts with surface and mid-water species, making it an excellent peaceful companion.
  • Chili Rasbora – One of the smallest rasboras available, these fish are completely non-threatening and thrive in similar soft, acidic conditions.
  • Nerite Snail – Excellent algae grazers that are completely ignored by bettas and help maintain tank cleanliness.
  • Amano Shrimp – Large enough to avoid predation by most bettas, these shrimp are useful algae eaters, though individual betta temperament should be assessed first.
  • Celestial Pearl Danio – A small, peaceful species that prefers densely planted tanks and occupies similar habitats without causing conflict.

Fish to avoid

  • Betta splendens – Any other Betta species or variety will likely trigger intense territorial aggression, and hybridisation is a risk if breeding occurs.
  • Tiger Barb – A notorious fin-nipper that will harass and damage the betta’s fins, causing significant stress and injury.
  • Paradise Fish – Another labyrinth fish with territorial tendencies that will inevitably clash with Betta smaragdina.
  • Dwarf Gourami – As a closely related labyrinth fish, it may provoke territorial disputes and compete for similar surface territory.
  • Fancy Guppy – The flowing fins and bright colours of male guppies can be mistaken for rival bettas, provoking persistent aggression.
  • Chinese Algae Eater – Can become aggressive and territorial as it matures, and may attempt to attach to the betta’s body to feed on its slime coat.
  • Convict Cichlid – Far too aggressive and territorial for cohabitation with any Betta species.
  • Red Tail Shark – Highly territorial bottom-dweller that will dominate and stress smaller, less assertive tank mates.

Breeding

Breeding Betta smaragdina in captivity is an achievable and deeply rewarding undertaking for aquarists with some experience in fish husbandry. As a bubble-nesting species, the breeding process follows the general pattern seen across the Betta splendens complex, though some nuances specific to this wild species are worth noting.

Begin by conditioning a selected pair with high-quality live and frozen foods for one to two weeks before introducing them. Daphnia, brine shrimp, mosquito larvae, and bloodworms are all excellent conditioning foods. The female should begin to develop a visibly rounded abdomen as she fills with eggs, and the male’s colours will typically intensify as he enters breeding condition.

The breeding tank should be set up separately from the main display if possible. A tank of 20-40 litres is suitable, with a water depth of approximately 15-20 cm. Include floating plants or a small piece of polystyrene as a nest site, along with ample hiding spots for the female (dense plant thickets, coconut shell caves, or terracotta pots). The water should be warm (26-28 °C), soft, and slightly acidic, with minimal filtration – a gentle air-driven sponge filter turned to its lowest setting, or no filtration at all with regular small water changes. Indian almond leaves are particularly beneficial in the breeding tank.

Introduce the female first, allowing her to explore and settle for a day. Then introduce the male. He should begin constructing a bubble nest within a day or two, typically beneath floating plants or leaves at the surface. Courtship involves the male displaying intensely to the female – flaring his gill covers, spreading his fins, and swimming in exaggerated patterns to showcase his colouration. The female, if receptive, will display vertical barring on her body and approach the male’s nest.

The spawning embrace is characteristic of bubble-nesting bettas. The male wraps his body around the female in a “U” shape beneath the nest, and eggs are released and fertilised simultaneously. Both fish may appear momentarily stunned after each embrace. The male typically collects the sinking eggs in his mouth and deposits them into the bubble nest, though the female may also assist with egg collection – this cooperative behaviour is more commonly observed in wild-type bettas than in domestic splendens.

After spawning is complete (the process can take several hours with multiple embraces), the female should be carefully removed from the breeding tank. The male will assume sole responsibility for guarding and tending the nest, retrieving any fallen eggs and repairing the bubble structure as needed. He will typically refuse food during this period, which is normal.

Eggs hatch within 24-48 hours depending on temperature, and the fry become free-swimming approximately two to three days later. Once the fry are free-swimming and actively seeking food, the male should be removed. Initial foods for the fry include infusoria, vinegar eels, or commercially available liquid fry food, transitioning to freshly hatched brine shrimp (Artemia nauplii) and microworms after the first week. Frequent small water changes and meticulous attention to water quality are critical during the fry-rearing stage. A typical spawn can produce 50 to 200 fry.

Common Diseases

Betta smaragdina is a generally hardy species when maintained in appropriate conditions, but like all aquarium fish, it is susceptible to various diseases, particularly when stressed, housed in suboptimal water conditions, or fed a poor diet. Early detection and prompt treatment are essential for successful outcomes.

Fin rot is one of the most common ailments seen in bettas. It manifests as ragged, discoloured, or receding fin edges and is almost always caused by bacterial infection secondary to poor water quality. Treatment involves addressing the underlying water quality issues through increased water changes and maintaining pristine conditions. In severe cases, antibacterial medications may be necessary. Mild cases often resolve with improved husbandry alone.

Ich (white spot disease) is caused by the protozoan parasite Ichthyophthirius multifiliis and presents as small white spots resembling grains of salt scattered across the body and fins. Affected fish may also clamp their fins and rub against surfaces (flashing). Treatment involves gradually raising the water temperature to 28-30 °C and adding aquarium salt or a proprietary ich medication according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Velvet disease (Oodinium) is caused by a parasitic dinoflagellate and can be particularly devastating if not caught early. Affected fish develop a fine, gold or rust-coloured dusting across the body, often most visible when light is shone from the side. Fish may become lethargic, clamp their fins, and lose appetite. Treatment typically involves dimming the lights (the parasite is partly photosynthetic), raising the temperature, and administering a copper-based medication.

Swim bladder disorder can affect bettas that are overfed or fed an inappropriate diet. Symptoms include difficulty maintaining buoyancy, floating at the surface, or sinking to the bottom. Fasting the fish for two to three days, followed by offering easily digestible foods such as daphnia, often resolves the issue. Chronic cases may indicate a more serious underlying condition.

Columnaris is a bacterial infection that can present as white or greyish patches on the body, mouth, or fins. It can progress rapidly and is often fatal if untreated. Antibiotic treatment and improved water quality are the primary interventions. Columnaris is frequently associated with stress and poor environmental conditions.

Prevention is always preferable to treatment. Maintaining stable, clean water conditions, providing a varied and nutritious diet, avoiding overcrowding, and quarantining new fish before introducing them to an established tank are the cornerstones of disease prevention for Betta smaragdina.

FAQs

Can I keep Betta smaragdina in the same tank as a domestic Betta splendens?

No, this is strongly discouraged. Both species are territorial and will likely fight, potentially resulting in serious injury or death. Additionally, if breeding occurs between the two species, the resulting hybrids compromise the genetic purity of the wild-type species, which is a significant conservation concern among responsible breeders.

Is Betta smaragdina less aggressive than Betta splendens?

Generally, yes – Betta smaragdina tends to be less intensely aggressive towards conspecifics than selectively bred domestic splendens. However, it is still a territorial species, and males will fight if housed together in inadequate space. It should not be considered a “community betta” without careful planning and appropriate tank setup.

Do Betta smaragdina need a heater?

In most climates, yes. Betta smaragdina requires stable water temperatures in the range of 22-28 °

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