Snakeskin Gourami Care Guide – Tank Setup, Feeding and Breeding

Quick summary

The Snakeskin Gourami is a hardy, peaceful fish that’s easy to care for, but its large adult size of 20-25 cm means it needs a spacious tank of at least 250 litres, so it’s best suited to aquarists with room for a big community setup rather than beginners with small tanks. If you can provide that space, a secure lid and a few plants for cover, it’s an easy, low-maintenance and rewarding species to keep.

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In this guide:

Introduction
Quick Stats
Appearance
Natural Habitat
Tank Size and Setup
Water Parameters
Filtration and Equipment
Diet and Feeding
Behaviour and Temperament
Tank Mates
Breeding
Common Diseases
FAQs

Introduction

The Snakeskin Gourami (Trichopodus pectoralis) is one of the most understated yet rewarding members of the gourami family available in the freshwater aquarium hobby. Named for the striking diagonal pattern of scales running along its flanks – reminiscent of a snake’s skin – this Southeast Asian labyrinth fish combines elegant beauty with a generally peaceful disposition that belies its considerable adult size. Native to the lowland waters of Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam and Laos, the Snakeskin Gourami occupies a fascinating dual role in its home range: it is both an ornamental aquarium species and one of the most important freshwater food fish in Southeast Asian aquaculture, particularly in Thailand where it has been farmed for centuries.

As one of the larger commonly kept gourami species, Trichopodus pectoralis demands more space than its smaller cousins such as the Dwarf Gourami or Honey Gourami, but rewards the dedicated aquarist with a hardy, long-lived fish that displays genuinely interesting behaviour. Like all gouramis, it possesses a labyrinth organ that allows it to breathe atmospheric air directly, an adaptation to the oxygen-poor waters of its native habitat. This makes it tolerant of a wider range of conditions than many tropical species, though it naturally thrives best when provided with clean, well-maintained water and an appropriately sized aquarium.

Despite its many virtues, the Snakeskin Gourami remains somewhat overshadowed in the hobby by more colourful gourami species. This is arguably unjust, as its subtle beauty, calm temperament and robust constitution make it an excellent centrepiece fish for larger community aquariums. This guide covers everything you need to know about keeping Snakeskin Gouramis successfully, from tank setup and water parameters to diet, breeding and compatible tank mates.

Quick Stats

Scientific name	Trichopodus pectoralis
Common names	Snakeskin Gourami, Siamese Gourami, Pla Salit
Family	Osphronemidae
Origin	Southeast Asia – Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, Laos
Adult size	20-25 cm (8-10 inches)
Lifespan	6-8 years
Difficulty	Easy
Breeding difficulty	Moderate
Temperature	22-28 °C
pH range	6.0-8.0
General hardness (GH)	2-20 dGH
Carbonate hardness (KH)	2-12 dKH
Minimum tank size	250 litres
Conservation status	Least Concern

Appearance

The Snakeskin Gourami possesses a laterally compressed, elongated oval body shape that is typical of the Trichopodus genus but somewhat more streamlined and slender than many of its close relatives. Its most defining visual feature is the series of broken, diagonal dark markings that run along the flanks from behind the gill cover towards the caudal peduncle. These markings, arranged in a pattern that closely resembles the scales of a snake, give the species its common name and make it instantly recognisable among gourami enthusiasts.

The base body colour is an olive-green to silvery-grey, with the belly typically lighter and sometimes displaying a slight yellowish tint. A prominent dark horizontal stripe often runs from the snout through the eye and along the midline of the body, though this can vary in intensity depending on the fish’s mood, health and environmental conditions. The fins are generally translucent to pale grey-green, with the dorsal and anal fins sometimes showing faint spotting or mottling. The caudal fin is slightly forked and often has a subtle reddish or amber tinge at its edges.

Like all gouramis, the Snakeskin Gourami possesses modified pelvic fins that have evolved into long, thread-like sensory feelers. These elongated ventral fins are used to probe the environment and are particularly sensitive to touch, functioning almost like antennae as the fish navigates through its surroundings. This is a characteristic shared across the gourami family and is one of their most engaging behavioural features to observe in the aquarium.

Sexual dimorphism is present but relatively subtle. Males tend to be slightly larger and more slender than females, and their dorsal fin is typically more pointed and elongated, reaching further back towards the tail when laid flat. Females, by contrast, have a rounder, fuller body shape, particularly when carrying eggs, and a shorter, more rounded dorsal fin. During breeding condition, males may develop a slightly deeper olive or golden colouration, though this intensification is less dramatic than in some other gourami species.

Juveniles are generally paler and display less defined patterning than adults. The characteristic snakeskin markings become more pronounced as the fish matures, typically becoming fully developed once the fish reaches around 8-10 cm in length. At full adult size of 20-25 cm, the Snakeskin Gourami is an impressive fish that commands attention in any suitably large aquarium.

Natural Habitat

The Snakeskin Gourami is native to the lowland freshwater environments of mainland Southeast Asia, with its range spanning Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam and Laos. Its distribution is closely linked to the Mekong River basin and the Chao Phraya River system in Thailand, as well as numerous smaller river systems, floodplains and associated wetlands throughout its range. The species has also been widely introduced to other regions through aquaculture, including parts of Malaysia, Indonesia, the Philippines and even some tropical regions beyond Asia.

In the wild, Trichopodus pectoralis inhabits slow-moving or still waters, showing a strong preference for shallow, heavily vegetated environments. It is commonly found in rice paddies, irrigation canals, swamps, marshes, ponds, oxbow lakes and the vegetated margins of rivers and streams. These habitats are characterised by warm temperatures, soft to moderately hard water, abundant aquatic vegetation and often low dissolved oxygen levels – the latter being the evolutionary driver behind the development of the labyrinth organ that allows all anabantoid fishes to breathe air directly.

The waters in its native range tend to be slightly acidic to neutral, though the species demonstrates remarkable adaptability and can be found across a wide range of pH values and hardness levels. The substrate in typical habitats is often muddy or silty, with dense growths of aquatic plants such as Ceratophyllum, Hydrilla and various species of Nymphaea providing shelter, foraging opportunities and spawning sites. During the wet season, floodwaters dramatically expand the available habitat, and Snakeskin Gouramis exploit these inundated areas for feeding and breeding before retreating to permanent water bodies as the dry season approaches.

The species occupies an important ecological niche in its native habitats, feeding on a mixed diet of aquatic invertebrates, small crustaceans, insect larvae and a substantial proportion of plant matter including algae and higher plant material. Its role in controlling mosquito larvae and other aquatic insects has contributed to its popularity as a fish for stocking in rice paddies and other agricultural waterways. This close association with human agricultural activity has been a feature of the species’ relationship with people for many centuries.

Tank Size and Setup

Given its potential adult size of 20-25 cm, the Snakeskin Gourami requires a considerably larger aquarium than many of the smaller gourami species commonly seen in the hobby. A minimum tank size of 250 litres is recommended for a single specimen or a pair, with larger volumes preferred, particularly if keeping a small group or housing them in a community setup. A tank of 350-450 litres or more is ideal for providing adequate swimming space and for maintaining stable water parameters with a fish of this size.

The aquarium should be set up to loosely replicate the species’ natural environment. A soft, fine-grained substrate such as sand or smooth gravel works well, reflecting the silty or muddy bottoms of its native waterways. Dark-coloured substrates tend to bring out the best colouration in the fish and create a more natural-looking display.

Planting is highly recommended and arguably essential for the comfort and wellbeing of Snakeskin Gouramis. Dense stands of tall background plants such as Vallisneria, Hygrophila or Limnophila provide the sense of security that these fish need, while floating plants are particularly valuable as they mimic the surface vegetation found in the species’ natural habitat and help to diffuse overhead lighting. The Snakeskin Gourami is not typically a destructive plant-eater in the aquarium, though it may occasionally nibble on softer-leaved species. Hardy plants are therefore a sensible choice.

Driftwood, twisted roots and rock arrangements can be used to create additional hiding spots and visual barriers. These are particularly important if keeping more than one gourami, as they allow subordinate individuals to retreat from the line of sight of more dominant fish, reducing stress and potential aggression. However, open swimming areas should also be maintained, as the Snakeskin Gourami is an active fish that appreciates room to move freely.

A secure, tight-fitting lid is essential. As a labyrinth fish, the Snakeskin Gourami regularly rises to the surface to gulp atmospheric air. The air space between the water surface and the lid should be warm and humid; a cold draught above the water can potentially damage the labyrinth organ and lead to respiratory problems. Ensure there is a gap of several centimetres between the water surface and the lid to allow for this behaviour, and avoid placement near draughty windows or air-conditioning outlets.

Lighting should be moderate rather than intense. Snakeskin Gouramis originate from habitats where overhanging vegetation and floating plants create dappled, subdued light conditions. Overly bright lighting can cause stress and encourage the fish to remain hidden. Floating plants naturally help to manage light levels and are strongly recommended.

Water Parameters

The Snakeskin Gourami is a remarkably adaptable species when it comes to water chemistry, which is one of the reasons it has been so successfully farmed and maintained in a wide range of conditions. Nevertheless, maintaining stable parameters within the recommended ranges will promote the best health, colouration and behaviour.

Temperature	22-28 °C
pH	6.0-8.0
General hardness (GH)	2-20 dGH
Carbonate hardness (KH)	2-12 dKH
Ammonia	0 ppm
Nitrite	0 ppm
Nitrate	Below 30 ppm

While the Snakeskin Gourami can tolerate a broad range of conditions, a temperature of around 24-26 °C and a slightly acidic to neutral pH of 6.5-7.5 represent the sweet spot for most specimens. The species can handle harder water than many of its gourami relatives, making it suitable for a wider range of tap water conditions found in the UK and elsewhere. However, very hard, alkaline water should be avoided if possible, as it is far removed from the soft, slightly acidic conditions found in much of the species’ native range.

Regular water changes of 20-30% weekly are recommended to keep nitrate levels low and maintain overall water quality. Despite its tolerance for less-than-perfect conditions in the wild, the Snakeskin Gourami will display better health, more vibrant colouration and more natural behaviour in clean, well-maintained water. Consistency is key – sudden swings in temperature, pH or hardness should be avoided, as these can cause stress even in hardy species.

Filtration and Equipment

Effective filtration is important for any aquarium housing a fish of this size, as larger species produce more waste and can quickly degrade water quality in an inadequately filtered system. A canister filter rated for the volume of the aquarium (or preferably slightly above) is generally the best choice, providing excellent mechanical, biological and chemical filtration capacity.

However, it is important to consider flow rate carefully. The Snakeskin Gourami comes from slow-moving or still waters and does not appreciate strong currents. High flow rates can cause stress, exhaust the fish and interfere with its natural surface-breathing behaviour. If using a powerful canister filter, consider using a spray bar oriented along the back glass or towards the water surface to dissipate the flow, or use a lily pipe outlet to create a gentler current. Internal power filters and hang-on-back filters are also suitable for smaller setups, provided they offer adequate filtration capacity without generating excessive water movement.

A reliable heater is necessary to maintain tropical temperatures. For tanks of 250 litres or more, using two smaller heaters rather than a single large unit is a sensible precaution, as it provides redundancy in case one fails and distributes heat more evenly throughout the aquarium. A heater guard is advisable, as larger fish can occasionally bump against equipment and cause damage or burns.

An air pump is not strictly necessary, given that the labyrinth organ allows the Snakeskin Gourami to supplement its oxygen intake by breathing at the surface. However, if keeping tank mates that rely entirely on dissolved oxygen, gentle aeration can be beneficial. Avoid overly vigorous aeration that creates excessive surface agitation, as this can make it more difficult for the gourami to access the surface calmly for air-breathing.

Lighting should be appropriate for any live plants in the aquarium but does not need to be excessively powerful. A standard LED aquarium light on a timer set to provide 8-10 hours of illumination per day is suitable for most planted setups. As mentioned previously, floating plants are excellent for moderating light intensity and creating the shaded conditions that Snakeskin Gouramis prefer.

Diet and Feeding

The Snakeskin Gourami is an omnivore with a broad dietary range, making it one of the easier large aquarium fish to feed. In the wild, its diet consists of a mixture of aquatic invertebrates, insect larvae, small crustaceans, zooplankton, algae and plant matter. In captivity, it readily accepts virtually all commonly available aquarium foods, and the main challenge is ensuring a balanced and varied diet rather than getting it to eat at all.

A high-quality flake or pellet food designed for tropical omnivores should form the staple of the diet. Medium to large pellets or sticks are appropriate for adult fish and are generally preferable to flakes, as they provide more substance per feeding and create less waste. Look for foods that contain both animal and plant-based protein sources, as well as added vitamins and minerals to support overall health and immune function.

This staple should be supplemented regularly with live, frozen or freeze-dried foods to provide variety and enhance nutrition. Bloodworms, brine shrimp, daphnia, mosquito larvae and tubifex worms are all eagerly accepted. These protein-rich foods are particularly valuable during conditioning for breeding, when both males and females benefit from an enriched diet.

Vegetable matter is an important component of the Snakeskin Gourami’s diet and should not be neglected. Blanched spinach, lettuce, courgette slices, shelled peas and spirulina-based foods all provide valuable plant nutrients. The species’ natural inclination towards plant matter means it may occasionally graze on softer aquarium plants, though this is rarely destructive if the fish is otherwise well-fed.

Feed adult Snakeskin Gouramis once or twice daily, offering only as much food as can be consumed within a few minutes. Overfeeding should be avoided, as excess food degrades water quality and can lead to obesity, a not-uncommon problem in large gourami species kept in captivity. Juvenile fish benefit from more frequent, smaller meals – three times daily is appropriate for growing specimens.

Behaviour and Temperament

The Snakeskin Gourami is generally regarded as one of the most peaceful of the larger gourami species. It is considerably less aggressive than the closely related Three-Spot Gourami (Trichopodus trichopterus) and lacks the territorial belligerence that can make some larger anabantoids challenging community fish. That said, individual temperament can vary, and some degree of conspecific aggression – particularly between males – is normal and should be anticipated.

In the aquarium, Snakeskin Gouramis tend to occupy the middle and upper levels of the water column, regularly visiting the surface to gulp air. They are moderately active fish that alternate between periods of gentle cruising and stationary hovering, often among vegetation or near the surface. Their elongated ventral feelers are in near-constant motion, probing their surroundings with a characteristic exploratory behaviour that is endlessly fascinating to observe.

When kept singly, the Snakeskin Gourami is typically very peaceful and makes an excellent community fish with appropriately sized tank mates. When kept in pairs or groups, some hierarchical behaviour may emerge, with dominant males occasionally chasing subordinates. This is rarely harmful provided the aquarium is large enough and offers sufficient visual barriers and hiding places. Keeping a single male with one or two females is often the most harmonious arrangement.

The species can be somewhat shy, particularly when first introduced to a new aquarium or when kept in sparsely decorated tanks with bright lighting. Providing ample plant cover, floating vegetation and subdued lighting will help the fish feel secure and encourage more natural, confident behaviour. Once settled, Snakeskin Gouramis often become quite bold and may learn to recognise their keeper, approaching the front glass at feeding time.

Aggression towards other species is uncommon, though very small fish may occasionally be viewed as food by large adults. The Snakeskin Gourami is not a predatory species in the conventional sense, but its mouth is large enough to swallow very small tank mates such as neon tetras or guppy fry, so care should be taken with species selection.

Tank Mates

The Snakeskin Gourami’s peaceful nature and adaptable water parameter requirements make it compatible with a wide range of community fish, provided that tank mates are chosen with consideration for the gourami’s size and temperament. Ideal companions are peaceful to moderately boisterous species that are too large to be eaten but not so aggressive as to bully or harass the gourami. Very small, delicate species should generally be avoided, as should fin-nipping species that may target the Snakeskin Gourami’s long ventral feelers, and highly territorial or aggressive cichlids.

Good tank mates

Pearl Gourami – A similarly sized, peaceful gourami that shares comparable water parameter preferences and temperament.
Clown Loach – An active, sociable bottom-dweller that occupies different tank levels and is large enough to coexist safely.
Bristlenose Pleco – A peaceful algae-eating catfish that stays out of the gourami’s way and helps maintain tank cleanliness.
Congo Tetra – A mid-sized, peaceful schooling fish that adds colour and movement without creating conflict.
Giant Danio – An active, robust cyprinid that is too large to be eaten and tolerates the same water conditions well.
Rainbowfish – Active, colourful schooling fish that are generally too large and quick to be harassed, creating a lively community dynamic.
Corydoras Catfish – Peaceful bottom-dwelling catfish that complement gouramis well, though choose larger species such as Corydoras sterbai for safety.
Kuhli Loach – A shy, nocturnal bottom-dweller that is unlikely to interact with the gourami at all, making for a stress-free combination.

Fish to avoid

Tiger Barb – Notorious fin-nippers that will relentlessly target the Snakeskin Gourami’s long, tempting ventral feelers.
Oscar – A large, aggressive cichlid that will dominate the tank and may attack or injure the peaceful gourami.
Convict Cichlid – Highly territorial, especially when breeding, and likely to harass a peaceful gourami relentlessly.
Red Tail Shark – Territorial and aggressive towards tank mates that enter its claimed territory, causing chronic stress.
Serpae Tetra – A known fin-nipper that will target the gourami’s elongated ventral fins, causing damage and stress.
Flowerhorn – An extremely aggressive hybrid cichlid that is wholly incompatible with peaceful community fish.
Three-Spot Gourami – A closely related species that can be territorial and aggressive, leading to conflict and hybridisation concerns.

Breeding

Breeding Snakeskin Gouramis in captivity is achievable for the experienced aquarist, though it requires a suitably large breeding tank and careful conditioning. Like most gouramis, the Snakeskin Gourami is a bubble-nest builder, with the male constructing a floating nest of air bubbles at the water surface, often incorporating fragments of plant material for structural support.

To condition a breeding pair, separate the male and female for one to two weeks and feed them a rich diet of live and frozen foods such as bloodworms, brine shrimp and daphnia. This helps to bring both fish into peak breeding condition, with the female developing a noticeably rounded belly as she fills with eggs.

The breeding tank should be at least 150 litres, though larger is preferable given the size of adult fish. Water should be warm – around 26-28 °C – with a pH of 6.5-7.0 and soft to moderately soft water of 4-10 dGH. The water level can be reduced to around 15-20 cm to mimic the shallow breeding habitats the species favours in the wild. Floating plants are essential, as they provide anchor points for the bubble nest and create the shaded, secure environment that encourages spawning behaviour. A tight-fitting lid is critical to maintain warm, humid air above the water surface, as the developing labyrinth organ of the fry is extremely sensitive to cold or dry air.

When ready to spawn, the male will begin constructing a bubble nest, often in a corner or beneath a cluster of floating plants. Nest-building can take several hours to a day or more, and the resulting nest can be remarkably large – sometimes 25 cm or more in diameter. Once the nest is complete, the male will court the female with displays of flared fins and intensified colouration, guiding her beneath the nest.

Spawning occurs in the typical anabantoid embrace, with the male wrapping his body around the female in a U-shape. The female releases a batch of eggs, which float upwards and are collected by the male and placed into the bubble nest. This embrace and egg-laying sequence is repeated multiple times over several hours, with a single spawning producing anywhere from several hundred to over a thousand eggs.

After spawning is complete, the female should be removed, as the male assumes sole responsibility for guarding and tending the nest. He will aggressively defend the nest area and may harm the female if she remains in the tank. The male meticulously maintains the nest, replacing burst bubbles and retrieving any eggs that fall out.

Eggs typically hatch within 24-48 hours, depending on temperature. The fry remain in the nest for a further two to three days, absorbing their yolk sacs before becoming free-swimming. At this point, the male should also be removed, as he may begin to eat the fry once they leave the nest. Free-swimming fry are very small and should initially be fed infusoria or liquid fry food, graduating to newly hatched brine shrimp and microworms after a week or so as they grow. Growth is rapid with good nutrition and clean water, and the young fish begin to develop their characteristic patterning within a few weeks.

Common Diseases

The Snakeskin Gourami is a hardy species that is not particularly prone to disease when maintained in clean, well-managed conditions. However, like all aquarium fish, it can be affected by a range of common freshwater diseases, particularly when stressed by poor water quality, overcrowding, inadequate diet or sudden environmental changes.

White spot disease (Ichthyophthirius multifiliis), commonly known as ich, is perhaps the most frequently encountered ailment. It manifests as small white spots resembling grains of salt scattered across the body and fins. Ich is typically triggered by temperature fluctuations or stress and is highly contagious. Treatment involves raising the water temperature gradually to 28-30 °C and administering a commercially available ich medication according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Bacterial infections can affect Snakeskin Gouramis, particularly if they sustain injuries from sharp decor, aggressive tank mates or rough handling. Symptoms may include reddened or ulcerated areas on the body, frayed or rotting fins, or a general loss of condition. Maintaining excellent water quality is both the best prevention and the first step in treatment, often supplemented by antibacterial medications if the infection is severe.

Gouramis as a group are susceptible to a condition sometimes referred to as Dwarf Gourami Disease (DGD) or Iridovirus infection, though this primarily affects Colisa species rather than Trichopodus. Nevertheless, viral infections can occur and are generally untreatable, making quarantine of new arrivals an important preventative measure. Symptoms of viral infection may include lethargy, loss of appetite, colour fading and the development of sores or lesions.

Fungal infections, appearing as white or grey cotton-like growths on the body or fins, can develop secondary to injuries or in environments with poor water quality. Commercially available antifungal treatments are usually effective, but addressing the underlying cause – whether it be water quality, physical damage or stress – is essential for long-term resolution.

Swim bladder disorders can occasionally affect Snakeskin Gouramis, causing the fish to swim at abnormal angles, float uncontrollably or sink to the bottom. These may result from overfeeding, constipation, bacterial infection or physical trauma. Fasting the fish for 24-48 hours and then offering a diet of blanched, shelled peas can sometimes resolve constipation-related swim bladder issues.

As with all labyrinth fish, damage to the labyrinth organ caused by exposure to cold or dry air above the water surface can lead to respiratory difficulties. This underscores the importance of maintaining a warm, humid air space beneath the aquarium lid. Prevention through proper tank management is far more effective than attempting to treat respiratory damage after the fact.

FAQs

How big do Snakeskin Gouramis get?

Snakeskin Gouramis typically reach 20-25 cm (8-10 inches) in the aquarium, making them one of the larger commonly kept gourami species. In aquaculture ponds in their native Southeast Asia, they may occasionally grow slightly larger. Their substantial adult size means they require a minimum tank of 250 litres, with larger volumes preferred for long-term housing and community setups.

Are Snakeskin Gouramis aggressive?

No, the Snakeskin Gourami is generally considered one of the most peaceful of the larger gourami species. While some minor conspecific squabbling can occur – particularly between males – aggression towards other species is uncommon. They are considerably less territorial and combative than the closely related Three-Spot Gourami and make excellent community fish when housed with appropriately sized, non-aggressive tank mates.

Can Snakeskin Gouramis be kept with other gouramis?

Snakeskin Gouramis can generally be kept with other peaceful gourami species of comparable size, such as Pearl Gouramis or Moonlight Gouramis. However, mixing them with more aggressive species like Three-Spot Gouramis or very closely related Trichopodus species is best avoided, as territorial conflict and the potential for hybridisation can arise. Each gourami should have sufficient space and cover to establish its own territory within the aquarium.

Do Snakeskin Gouramis eat plants?

Snakeskin Gouramis are omnivores that do consume some plant matter as part of their natural diet. In the aquarium, they may occasionally nibble on softer-leaved plants, but they are not generally destructive plant-eaters. Providing a diet that includes vegetable matter such as blanched spinach, spirulina flakes or shelled peas will help to reduce any inclination to graze on aquarium plants. Hardy plant species are recommended for their tanks.

How can I tell the difference between male and female Snakeskin Gouramis?

Sexual dimorphism in Snakeskin Gouramis is subtle but discernible with practice. Males tend to be slightly larger and more slender, with a pointed, elongated dorsal fin that extends further towards the tail. Females are generally fuller-bodied, particularly when carrying eggs, and have a shorter, more rounded dorsal fin. During breeding condition, males may display slightly more intense colouration, though this difference is less dramatic than in some other gourami species.

Pearl Gourami – A similarly sized, peaceful gourami species that makes an excellent companion or alternative for those interested in the Osphronemidae family.
Moonlight Gourami – Another large, peaceful Trichopodus species with similar care requirements and a beautiful silvery appearance.
Three-Spot Gourami – A closely related and widely available gourami species, useful for comparison in terms of care, temperament and appearance.
Giant Gourami – The largest species in the gourami family, relevant for aquarists considering the bigger end of the gourami spectrum.
Honey Gourami – A much smaller, beginner-friendly gourami species for those interested in the family but with limited tank space.