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Crowntail Betta Care Guide – Tank Setup, Feeding and Breeding

ByTankora

Quick summary

The Crowntail Betta is an easy-to-keep, hardy variant of Betta splendens with sturdier, less tear-prone fins than varieties like the Halfmoon, making it a forgiving choice for beginners who want a striking-looking betta without excessive fin fragility. It needs only a 20 litre (ideally 30-40 litre) heated, filtered tank kept alone or with carefully chosen calm tank mates, though breeding is rated moderate difficulty and males must never be housed together.

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In this guide:

Introduction

The Crowntail Betta is one of the most visually striking and immediately recognisable tail-type variants of the domestic Betta splendens. Developed in Indonesia in the late 1990s – most commonly credited to breeder Achmad Yusuf, who first exhibited the form in 1997 – the Crowntail has since become one of the most popular betta varieties in the global aquarium trade. Its defining characteristic is a dramatic reduction in the webbing between the fin rays, which allows each ray to extend outward as a distinct, elongated spike. The result is a spectacular crown-like silhouette that sets it apart from every other betta tail type.

It is important to understand that the Crowntail Betta is not a separate species. It is a selectively bred colour and finnage variant of Betta splendens, the same species that encompasses Halfmoon, Veiltail, Plakat, and every other domestic betta form. Its care requirements are fundamentally identical to those of any other Betta splendens variant, and readers looking for comprehensive baseline care information – covering everything from cycling a tank to understanding betta behaviour at a foundational level – should refer to our full Betta Fish Care Guide.

That said, the Crowntail does present some genuinely distinct practical considerations that make a dedicated guide worthwhile. Its unique fin structure, while dramatic in appearance, is actually hardier and less prone to tearing than the expansive, heavily webbed fins of varieties like the Halfmoon. This gives Crowntail keepers a slightly wider margin of error when it comes to decor selection and water flow, though the extended ray tips still demand respect and attention. This guide focuses on those differences – the specific care nuances, breeding considerations, and aesthetic qualities that are unique to keeping Crowntails successfully.

Quick Stats

Scientific name Betta splendens var. Crowntail
Common names Crowntail Betta, CT Betta, Crowntail Fighter, Serit Betta
Family Osphronemidae
Origin Selectively bred; original domestic Betta splendens native to Thailand, Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam, and Myanmar. Crowntail form developed in Indonesia.
Adult size 6-7.5 cm (body length, excluding fins)
Lifespan 3-5 years
Difficulty Easy
Breeding difficulty Moderate
Temperature 24-28 °C
pH range 6.0-7.5
General hardness (GH) 3-12 dGH
Carbonate hardness (KH) 2-8 dKH
Minimum tank size 20 litres
Conservation status Vulnerable (IUCN, for wild Betta splendens; domestic variants not separately assessed)

Appearance

The Crowntail Betta’s appearance is defined almost entirely by its extraordinary finnage. In a typical betta, the fin rays are connected by a continuous membrane of webbing that creates smooth, flowing edges. In the Crowntail, this webbing is reduced by at least one-third – and in show-quality specimens, by two-thirds or more – leaving the individual rays to extend well beyond the webbing as pronounced, pointed projections. The visual effect is unmistakable: rather than the rounded, fan-like spread of a Halfmoon or the trailing drape of a Veiltail, the Crowntail’s fins form a jagged, spiky crown that gives the variety its name.

This reduced-webbing trait is expressed across all unpaired fins – the caudal (tail), dorsal, and anal fins. In high-quality Crowntails, even the pectoral fins may show some degree of extended raying, though this is less consistently selected for. The rays themselves can be single, double-split, or even cross-rayed, with each configuration producing a different visual density and texture. Single-ray Crowntails have a cleaner, more minimalist spiky look, while double-ray and cross-ray fish present a more complex, bushy appearance.

The body shape of a Crowntail is essentially the same as any other domestic betta – a compact, laterally compressed form with an upturned mouth adapted for surface feeding and air-breathing. Males are significantly more finnaged than females, though female Crowntails also display the characteristic reduced webbing and extended rays on a smaller scale. Males typically reach 6 to 7.5 cm in body length, with fins that can add another 4 to 6 cm to their total span when fully flared.

One genuinely practical point about Crowntail finnage is its structural resilience. Because the fins carry less webbing, there is simply less delicate membrane tissue to tear or damage. The rays themselves are semi-rigid and more robust than thin fin membrane. This means that Crowntails are measurably less susceptible to fin tears from minor snags, moderate current, or rough-edged decor than Halfmoon or Rosetail bettas, whose enormous webbed fins are notoriously fragile. This does not mean Crowntails are immune to fin damage – the extended ray tips can still curl, break, or develop issues in poor water quality – but the practical difference is real and meaningful for everyday care.

Crowntails are available in virtually every colour and pattern found in the domestic betta palette. Solid reds, blues, and blacks are common, as are bicolour combinations, marble patterns, butterfly markings, and metallic or dragon-scale overlays. The striking fin shape tends to be most visually dramatic in darker, high-contrast colours, where each individual ray is clearly defined against the gaps between them.

Varieties and Morphs

Within the Crowntail category, several sub-varieties are recognised by breeders and show judges, distinguished primarily by the structure of the fin rays themselves.

Single-ray Crowntail: The most common form. Each fin ray extends as a single, unbranched spike beyond the reduced webbing. This produces a clean, evenly spaced crown effect and is the most widely available type in pet shops.

Double-ray Crowntail: Each primary ray splits into two branches partway along its length, creating a forked or Y-shaped tip. This gives the fins a denser, more complex look while retaining the spiky silhouette. Double-ray Crowntails are generally considered more desirable in show circles and command slightly higher prices.

Cross-ray (or King Crowntail): The most elaborate sub-type. The rays not only split but also cross over one another, creating an intricate lattice-like pattern. True cross-ray Crowntails are relatively rare and highly sought after by collectors and competitive breeders. The term “King Crowntail” is sometimes used loosely in the trade for any particularly impressive specimen, so buyers should examine the fins closely rather than relying on labels alone.

Crowntail Plakat (CTPK): A cross between Crowntail and short-finned Plakat genetics, producing a fish with the Crowntail’s reduced webbing and extended rays but on much shorter fins overall. CTPKs are exceptionally hardy – combining the reduced tearing risk of both shorter fins and less webbing – and are increasingly popular among keepers who want the Crowntail look without the maintenance considerations of long finnage.

Half-Sun: A hybrid form that crosses Crowntail with Halfmoon genetics, aiming for the 180-degree spread of a Halfmoon but with slight ray extensions beyond the webbing. Half-Suns sit on a spectrum between the two parent types; specimens with more pronounced ray extensions lean towards Crowntail classification, while those with minimal extension are considered Combtails.

Combtail: Technically distinct from a true Crowntail, the Combtail has webbing reduced by less than one-third of the ray length, producing only slight extensions rather than dramatic spikes. Combtails are common in pet-shop stock and are often sold as Crowntails, though experienced keepers and breeders distinguish between the two. A true Crowntail should have webbing reduced by at least 33% of the ray length.

Colour-wise, Crowntails appear in every established betta colour variety, including solid, bicolour, multicolour, butterfly, marble, koi, galaxy, mustard gas, and metallic/dragon forms. The interaction between colour and fin structure is purely aesthetic – colour genetics and fin-type genetics are inherited independently.

Natural Habitat

As a selectively bred domestic variety, the Crowntail Betta has no natural habitat in the wild. However, understanding the native environment of wild Betta splendens remains essential for providing appropriate captive conditions, as the Crowntail’s physiology and behavioural instincts are unchanged from its wild ancestors.

Wild Betta splendens are native to the lowland floodplains of Southeast Asia, particularly Thailand, Cambodia, Laos, and Vietnam. They inhabit shallow, slow-moving or still waters including rice paddies, drainage ditches, roadside puddles, marshes, and the margins of ponds and streams. These habitats are characterised by warm temperatures (typically 25-30 degrees Celsius), soft to moderately hard water, a slightly acidic to neutral pH, and heavy vegetation. The water is often shallow – sometimes only a few centimetres deep – and may be shaded by overhanging plants, resulting in relatively low light levels.

Crucially, these environments are almost always still or very gently flowing. Wild bettas are not adapted to cope with significant current, and this is even more relevant for the Crowntail variant. While the Crowntail’s reduced webbing makes it somewhat more hydrodynamic than a Halfmoon, the extended ray tips still create drag, and strong flow will stress the fish and may cause ray curling or breakage over time.

The substrate in wild betta habitats is typically muddy or silty, with dense growths of aquatic and emergent plants providing cover, territory markers, and surfaces for bubble nests. Leaf litter is frequently present, releasing tannins that tint the water a light amber and contribute to the slightly acidic conditions bettas prefer. Replicating these elements in the aquarium – particularly the still water, warmth, and abundant plant cover – creates the most comfortable and natural-feeling environment for any domestic betta, Crowntails included.

Tank Size and Setup

The minimum recommended tank size for a single Crowntail Betta is 20 litres, though 30 to 40 litres provides a more comfortable and stable environment. Larger tanks are easier to heat consistently, maintain stable water parameters, and allow for more aquascaping complexity – all of which benefit the fish. Avoid anything smaller than 20 litres; while bettas can survive in tiny containers, they cannot thrive in them.

When setting up a tank specifically for a Crowntail, the primary consideration is decor safety. Although Crowntails are hardier-finned than Halfmoons or Rosetails, their extended ray tips can still catch on rough surfaces. Avoid sharp-edged plastic plants, rough-textured resin ornaments, and any decor with narrow openings or jagged edges. The classic “pantyhose test” remains a useful guideline: if fabric would snag on a surface, it could damage fin rays. Smooth driftwood, rounded stones, and live or high-quality silk plants are the safest choices.

That said, Crowntail keepers do have slightly more freedom than those keeping heavily webbed varieties. Moderate driftwood textures, mildly textured stone (such as river rock or smooth slate), and even some rougher natural materials that would be risky for a Halfmoon are generally acceptable for a Crowntail, as the reduced webbing means there is less tissue to catch and tear. This makes the Crowntail a forgiving choice for aquascapers who want to use natural hardscape without constant worry.

Live plants are strongly recommended. Dense planting provides visual barriers that reduce stress, offers resting spots near the surface, and contributes to water quality. Floating plants such as Salvinia, Ceratopteris (water sprite), or Amazon frogbit are particularly beneficial, as bettas naturally spend much of their time near the surface and appreciate the shade and cover floating vegetation provides. Mid-ground and background plants like Java fern, Anubias, and Cryptocoryne species are all excellent, low-maintenance choices that complement betta keeping well.

Lighting should be moderate. Bettas do not require intense light, and excessively bright illumination can stress them. If keeping live plants, choose a light that meets the plants’ needs but provide shaded areas via floating plants or tall stem plants. A consistent photoperiod of 8 to 10 hours per day is ideal.

A lid or cover is essential. All bettas are capable jumpers, and Crowntails are no exception. Ensure any openings for filter intakes, heater cables, or airline tubing are small enough to prevent escape. A small gap between the water surface and the lid is beneficial, as bettas breathe atmospheric air via their labyrinth organ and need access to a pocket of warm, humid air above the water.

Water Parameters

Temperature 24-28 °C
pH 6.0-7.5
General hardness (GH) 3-12 dGH
Carbonate hardness (KH) 2-8 dKH
Ammonia 0 ppm
Nitrite 0 ppm
Nitrate Below 20 ppm

The Crowntail Betta’s water parameter requirements are identical to those of any other domestic Betta splendens variant. Temperature stability is arguably the single most important factor – bettas are tropical fish that suffer significant immune suppression and lethargy when kept below 24 degrees Celsius. A reliable, adjustable heater is essential in all but the warmest climates.

One area where Crowntail-specific advice applies is water quality’s effect on fin condition. While Crowntail fins are structurally more robust than heavily webbed varieties, the exposed ray tips are still susceptible to curling, fraying, and erosion in suboptimal water conditions. Elevated ammonia, nitrite, or high nitrate levels tend to manifest as ray tip deterioration before other symptoms become apparent. Maintaining ammonia and nitrite at 0 ppm and nitrate below 20 ppm is particularly important for preserving the Crowntail’s distinctive fin shape. Regular water changes of 20 to 30 per cent weekly (or 10 to 15 per cent twice weekly in smaller tanks) are essential.

Some experienced Crowntail keepers add Indian almond leaves (Catappa leaves) or similar botanical materials to their tanks. The mild tannins released lower pH slightly, provide gentle antibacterial and antifungal properties, and create water conditions closer to the species’ ancestral habitat. While not strictly necessary, many keepers report improved fin condition and colouration with tannin-stained water. The leaves also provide surface cover that bettas appreciate.

Filtration and Equipment

Filtration for a Crowntail Betta should prioritise biological efficiency and gentle flow. Sponge filters are the most commonly recommended option for betta tanks and remain an excellent choice – they provide effective biological filtration with minimal current, are inexpensive, easy to maintain, and pose no risk of fin entanglement. Small internal filters and hang-on-back filters can also work well, provided their outflow is baffled or redirected to reduce current strength.

The Crowntail’s reduced webbing does give it a slight hydrodynamic advantage over Halfmoons and Rosetails, meaning it can tolerate marginally more flow without becoming exhausted. However, this advantage should not be overstated – Crowntails are still long-finned fish that will struggle in strong current. As a practical guideline, if you can see the fish being pushed by the flow or if it consistently avoids certain areas of the tank, the current is too strong. Adjustable-flow filters or simple baffles (a piece of filter sponge wedged over the outflow, or a pre-filter sponge on the intake) solve most flow issues easily.

An adjustable heater rated for the tank size is essential. For tanks of 20 to 40 litres, a 25 to 50 watt heater is typically sufficient. Place the heater near the filter outflow to ensure even heat distribution. A separate thermometer (digital or glass – do not rely on the heater’s built-in thermostat alone) should be used to verify temperature accuracy.

An air pump is not required if using a sponge filter (which is air-driven) or another adequate filtration method. If used independently, keep airflow gentle to avoid excessive surface agitation. Bettas access atmospheric air and do not benefit from highly oxygenated water in the way that many other species do; excessive surface movement can actually make it harder for them to breathe comfortably at the surface.

A timer for the aquarium light helps maintain a consistent photoperiod and reduces the risk of algae overgrowth. Test kits for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH – preferably liquid-based kits rather than test strips, for greater accuracy – are important tools for ongoing monitoring.

Diet and Feeding

Crowntail Bettas are carnivorous, like all Betta splendens. Their diet should be based on high-quality betta-specific pellets or granules, supplemented regularly with frozen or live foods. There are no dietary differences between Crowntails and other betta varieties; the focus should be on variety, quality, and portion control.

A good-quality betta pellet with whole fish or insect meal as the first ingredient should form the staple diet. Feed 2 to 4 appropriately sized pellets twice daily – enough to be consumed within one to two minutes. Bettas have small stomachs (roughly the size of their eye) and are easily overfed, which leads to bloating, constipation, and water quality issues.

Supplementary foods should be offered two to three times per week. Frozen bloodworms, daphnia, brine shrimp, and mosquito larvae are all excellent choices. Live foods, where available, are even better – they stimulate natural hunting behaviour and are particularly useful for conditioning breeding pairs. Freeze-dried foods are acceptable as occasional treats but should be pre-soaked in tank water for a few minutes before feeding to prevent digestive issues caused by expansion in the stomach.

One feeding consideration with relevance to fin condition: diets rich in carotenoids and astaxanthin (found naturally in many quality betta foods and in foods like daphnia and brine shrimp) support vibrant colouration and may contribute to healthy fin tissue. While this applies to all bettas, the Crowntail’s exposed ray tips make fin health particularly visible – well-fed Crowntails display straight, rigid rays with clean tips, while nutritionally deficient fish may show ray curling or dull, brittle-looking fins.

A fasting day once per week is widely recommended by experienced betta keepers to allow the digestive system to rest and reduce the risk of bloating. This is a standard practice for all betta varieties and is equally applicable to Crowntails.

Behaviour and Temperament

The Crowntail Betta shares the behavioural profile of all domestic Betta splendens: intelligent, territorial, and interactive. Males are famously aggressive towards other males of the same species and should always be housed individually or in carefully managed community setups (never with another male betta).

Anecdotally, many experienced keepers report that Crowntails tend towards the more assertive end of the betta temperament spectrum. While individual personality varies enormously and generalisations should be treated cautiously, there is a widely held view in the hobby that Crowntails and Plakats are somewhat feistier and more active than the more heavily finned Halfmoon and Rosetail types. Whether this is genuinely genetic or simply a consequence of their lighter fin load allowing more vigorous movement is debatable, but the practical result is the same: Crowntails tend to be active, engaged fish that patrol their territory with energy and readily interact with their keepers.

This relative activity level is one of the Crowntail’s genuine advantages over more elaborately finned varieties. Halfmoons and Rosetails are often weighed down by their massive fins, leading to lethargy, resting on the substrate, and reluctance to swim to the surface for food. Crowntails, with their lighter, less drag-inducing fin structure, move more freely and tend to use all levels of the tank. This makes them more engaging to watch and arguably leads to better quality of life.

Flaring behaviour – where the fish extends its gill covers and spreads all fins to maximum size as a territorial display – is particularly dramatic in Crowntails. The spiky fin silhouette creates an impressive threat display. Brief, controlled flaring (stimulated by a mirror held beside the tank for one to two minutes, no more) is excellent exercise and enrichment, but prolonged or constant flaring causes chronic stress and should be avoided. If the fish can see its own reflection in the tank glass at all times, the glass may need repositioning or the background darkening.

Crowntails are curious fish that benefit from environmental enrichment. Rearranging decor occasionally, providing floating objects to investigate, and varying the feeding routine all help keep them mentally stimulated. They quickly learn to recognise their keeper and will often approach the front of the tank in anticipation of food or interaction.

Tank Mates

While Crowntail Bettas can be kept in community settings, careful species selection is essential. The Crowntail’s somewhat feistier temperament means tank mate choices should lean towards calm, non-flashy species that will neither provoke the betta nor be targeted by it. At the same time, the Crowntail’s relatively hardy fins mean you have slightly more flexibility with tank mates that produce mild current or are modestly active compared to keeping a Halfmoon in community. Any community tank housing a betta should be at least 40 litres, well-planted, and offer ample visual barriers and hiding spots.

Good tank mates

  • Pygmy Corydoras – Tiny, peaceful bottom-dwellers that stay well out of the betta’s preferred mid-to-upper zone and are too small and drab to provoke aggression.
  • Amano Shrimp – Large enough to avoid being eaten by most bettas, these industrious algae eaters occupy a completely different ecological niche and are generally ignored.
  • Kuhli Loach – Nocturnal, eel-shaped bottom-dwellers that hide during the day and are virtually invisible to a territorial betta, making conflict extremely unlikely.
  • Ember Tetra – Small, peaceful, and lacking the flowing fins or bright colours that trigger betta aggression; keep in groups of six or more to maintain shoaling behaviour and reduce individual targeting.
  • Ramshorn Snail – Hardy, unobtrusive snails that help with algae and detritus; their shell provides protection against the occasional curious nip.
  • Harlequin Rasbora – A classic betta-compatible shoaling fish; their subdued colouration and peaceful nature make them reliable community partners in tanks of 40 litres or larger.
  • Malaysian Trumpet Snail – Burrowing snails that aerate the substrate and are almost entirely ignored by bettas due to their small size and nocturnal habits.
  • Otocinclus – Small, algae-grazing catfish that stick to surfaces and rarely enter open water, posing no territorial threat; require groups of four or more and a mature tank with established biofilm.

Fish to avoid

  • Male Betta (any variety) – Housing two male bettas together will result in severe aggression and likely death; this is non-negotiable regardless of tank size.
  • Tiger Barb – Notorious fin nippers that will relentlessly target any betta’s fins, including the Crowntail’s extended rays.
  • Paradise Fish – A closely related anabantoid with similar territorial instincts; aggression between the two species is virtually guaranteed.
  • Angelfish – Territorial cichlids that grow much larger than bettas and can become aggressive, particularly in smaller tanks; their long fins may also trigger betta aggression.
  • Chinese Algae Eater – Becomes increasingly aggressive and territorial with age and has a well-documented tendency to attach to and rasp the slime coat of slow-moving fish.
  • Dwarf Gourami – Another anabantoid that occupies the same water column zone and may trigger territorial disputes; both species suffer from the stress of cohabitation.
  • Serpae Tetra – A known fin-nipping species whose bold red colouration and nippy habits make it doubly problematic as a betta companion.
  • Convict Cichlid – An aggressive Central American cichlid that will outcompete and potentially injure a betta; completely incompatible in temperament and size.

Breeding

Breeding Crowntail Bettas follows the same general process as breeding any domestic Betta splendens – the male constructs a bubble nest at the surface, the pair performs an elaborate spawning embrace, and the male guards the eggs and fry. However, there are several Crowntail-specific considerations that breeders should understand before attempting to produce quality offspring.

The most important consideration is genetic: the reduced-webbing trait that defines the Crowntail is recessive. This means that crossing a Crowntail with a non-Crowntail variety (such as a Veiltail or Halfmoon) will typically produce offspring that do not display the Crowntail phenotype in the first generation – instead, most will appear as Combtails or standard fin types carrying the Crowntail gene. Producing consistent, high-quality Crowntail offspring requires pairing Crowntail to Crowntail, and even then, the degree of webbing reduction varies across the spawn. Selecting breeding stock with well-defined, deeply reduced webbing and straight, evenly spaced rays is critical for producing show-quality fish.

When selecting a breeding pair, look for complementary traits. Both fish should display strong webbing reduction (at least 33 per cent, ideally 50 per cent or more in males), straight and even ray extensions, good body shape, and vibrant colour. Avoid fish with curled or crossed rays, uneven webbing reduction, or deformed spines, as these traits are heritable. Female Crowntails are less dramatic in appearance than males but should still clearly show the reduced-webbing trait in their smaller fins.

Conditioning the pair for breeding involves feeding high-quality live and frozen foods for one to two weeks prior to introduction. This improves egg quality and quantity and brings both fish into optimal spawning condition. Females in breeding condition will display a visibly swollen abdomen and vertical breeding bars (pale vertical stripes on the body).

The breeding tank should be 20 to 40 litres, shallow (water depth of 12 to 15 cm), gently heated to 26-28 degrees Celsius, and equipped with floating plants or a polystyrene cup cut in half to serve as a bubble nest anchor. No substrate is necessary and filtration should be minimal – a small, air-driven sponge filter on very low flow, or no filter at all with manual water management.

Introduce the female in a clear container within the breeding tank so the pair can see each other without physical contact. When the male has built a substantial bubble nest and the female displays receptive behaviour (approaching the nest side of her container, displaying breeding bars, and tilting head-down), she can be released. Spawning typically occurs within hours of release and involves the male wrapping his body around the female in a series of nuptial embraces, during which eggs are released and fertilised. The male collects the eggs and places them in the bubble nest.

Remove the female immediately after spawning is complete, as the male will become aggressively protective of the nest and may injure or kill her. The male tends the eggs alone, retrieving any that fall from the nest and guarding against perceived threats. Eggs hatch in approximately 24 to 48 hours, and the fry become free-swimming two to three days later. The male should be removed once fry are free-swimming, as his parental drive wanes and he may begin eating the young.

Crowntail fry require infusoria or commercially available liquid fry food for the first few days, transitioning to freshly hatched baby brine shrimp (Artemia nauplii) once large enough – typically by day four to five. Growth rates are similar to other betta varieties. The Crowntail fin type becomes apparent at around six to eight weeks of age, when the reduced webbing begins to differentiate from standard fin development. Sorting and jarring males becomes necessary at around eight to twelve weeks, when aggression between siblings increases.

Common Diseases

Crowntail Bettas are susceptible to the same diseases as all domestic Betta splendens, with no variety-specific disease vulnerabilities. However, the Crowntail’s unique fin structure means that certain conditions manifest differently or deserve particular attention.

Fin rot is the most common health issue for any betta and warrants special mention for Crowntails. In heavily webbed varieties, fin rot typically presents as ragged, receding edges on the fin membrane. In Crowntails, because there is less webbing to erode, fin rot often manifests as darkening, curling, or erosion of the ray tips themselves. Early-stage ray tip erosion can be subtle – look for tips that appear blunted, darkened, or slightly curled rather than straight and pointed. Fin rot is almost always caused by poor water quality (elevated ammonia, nitrite, or nitrate) and is treated by correcting water conditions, performing frequent partial water changes, and in persistent cases, using appropriate antibacterial medication.

Ray curling is a condition particularly associated with Crowntails where the extended ray tips curl inward or outward rather than remaining straight. While sometimes genetic (and therefore not treatable), ray curling is frequently a response to poor water quality, temperature fluctuations, or nutritional deficiencies. Maintaining stable, clean water and a varied, high-quality diet helps prevent acquired ray curling. Mildly curled rays may straighten over time if conditions improve, though severely curled rays rarely

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