Leopard Bushfish Care Guide – Tank Setup, Feeding and Breeding
Quick summary
The Leopard Bushfish suits moderately experienced fishkeepers who can provide a large, heavily planted and shaded 200+ litre tank with soft, acidic water, since it is a shy, nocturnal predator that will eat any tank mate small enough to swallow. It is not ideal for beginners or community tanks with small fish, as it demands patience through long hiding periods, a live or frozen meat based diet, and careful, gradual acclimation.
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In this guide:
- Introduction
- Quick Stats
- Appearance
- Natural Habitat
- Tank Size and Setup
- Water Parameters
- Filtration and Equipment
- Diet and Feeding
- Behaviour and Temperament
- Tank Mates
- Breeding
- Common Diseases
- FAQs
Introduction
The Leopard Bushfish (Ctenopoma acutirostre) is one of the most captivating and unusual freshwater species available in the aquarium hobby. Hailing from the dense, slow-moving waterways of the Congo River basin in central Africa, this labyrinth fish has evolved into a masterful ambush predator, using its remarkable leaf-shaped body and spotted camouflage to blend seamlessly into its surroundings. For fishkeepers seeking something genuinely different from the typical community fare, the Leopard Bushfish delivers a rewarding, if somewhat specialised, keeping experience.
Often likened to a living piece of leaf litter, this species drifts motionless among submerged wood and decaying leaves, waiting patiently for unsuspecting prey to wander within striking distance. Its large, protrusible mouth can engulf surprisingly sizeable prey items in an instant, making careful tank mate selection absolutely essential. Despite its predatory nature, the Leopard Bushfish is a generally peaceful and even shy species that poses no threat to fish too large to swallow. It is this intriguing blend of stealth, beauty, and personality that has earned it a dedicated following among experienced aquarists.
As a member of the family Anabantidae, the Leopard Bushfish possesses a labyrinth organ – an accessory breathing structure that allows it to extract oxygen directly from atmospheric air. This adaptation is shared with more commonly kept relatives such as bettas and gouramis, and it means the species can tolerate water with lower dissolved oxygen levels than many other fish. However, this should never be taken as an excuse for poor husbandry; clean, well-maintained water remains essential for long-term health.
This guide covers everything you need to know to keep Leopard Bushfish successfully, from tank setup and water parameters to diet, behaviour, breeding, and compatible tank mates. Whether you are considering your first specimen or looking to refine your existing care routine, the information below will help you provide the best possible environment for this extraordinary African predator.
Quick Stats
| Scientific name | Ctenopoma acutirostre |
| Common names | Leopard Bushfish, Spotted Climbing Perch, Leopard Ctenopoma, Spotted Bushfish, Spotted Leaf Fish |
| Family | Anabantidae |
| Origin | Congo River basin, Democratic Republic of the Congo, central Africa |
| Adult size | 15-20 cm (6-8 inches) |
| Lifespan | 8-15 years |
| Difficulty | Moderate |
| Breeding difficulty | Difficult |
| Temperature | 23-28 °C |
| pH range | 6.0-7.5 |
| General hardness (GH) | 3-15 dGH |
| Carbonate hardness (KH) | 3-10 dKH |
| Minimum tank size | 200 litres |
| Conservation status | Least Concern |
Appearance
The Leopard Bushfish is a genuinely striking species whose entire body plan is oriented around deception. Viewed in profile, the fish has a laterally compressed, roughly ovoid body shape that tapers to a pointed snout – a silhouette that closely mimics a dead leaf drifting in the current. The dorsal and anal fins extend along a significant portion of the body and merge subtly with the caudal peduncle, reinforcing the leaf-like outline. The caudal fin itself is rounded and relatively transparent, further disguising the fish’s true shape when it hangs motionless in the water column.
The base colouration is typically a warm tan, pale brown, or golden-yellow, overlaid with a dense pattern of dark brown to black spots and blotches. This leopard-print patterning is highly variable between individuals; some specimens display tight, well-defined spots, while others show larger, more irregular patches that may merge into streaks or marbling. The spots extend across the body, fins, and even the head, providing excellent camouflage among dappled light and leaf litter. A dark spot at the base of the caudal fin is a consistent feature and is thought to serve as a false eyespot, potentially confusing predators about the fish’s orientation.
The mouth of the Leopard Bushfish is one of its most remarkable features. It is large relative to the head and highly protrusible, meaning the fish can rapidly extend it forward to create a powerful suction that draws prey in. When the mouth is closed, the head appears somewhat blunt and innocuous, but during a strike the transformation is dramatic and reveals just how large a prey item this fish can consume. The eyes are relatively large, well-suited to the dim, tannin-stained environments the species inhabits in the wild.
Sexual dimorphism is subtle and often unreliable. Males may develop slightly rougher scales along the caudal peduncle and flanks as they mature, and some sources suggest that males tend to have a slightly more angular body profile. However, these differences are inconsistent and sexing is generally difficult outside of breeding condition. Mature females carrying eggs may appear noticeably fuller in the belly when viewed from above.
Juveniles tend to display brighter, more contrasted spotting on a lighter background, becoming somewhat more muted as they mature. However, colouration can also shift depending on the fish’s mood, health, and environmental conditions – a stressed or unwell specimen will often appear pale and washed out, while a confident, healthy individual displays rich, warm tones with crisp spotting.
Natural Habitat
The Leopard Bushfish is native to the Congo River basin in the Democratic Republic of the Congo, one of the most biodiverse freshwater systems on Earth. Within this vast drainage, the species occupies slow-moving tributaries, backwaters, flooded forest margins, and swampy pools where dense vegetation, submerged wood, and thick accumulations of leaf litter create a complex, dimly lit environment. The water in these habitats is often stained a deep amber or brown by tannins leaching from decaying organic matter, resulting in soft, acidic conditions with limited visibility.
The forest canopy above these waterways typically filters out much of the direct sunlight, producing a permanently subdued lighting environment. The substrate is generally composed of fine sediment, mud, and deep layers of decomposing leaves and plant material. Fallen branches, root tangles, and emergent vegetation provide abundant hiding places and ambush points. It is within this cluttered, organic-rich environment that the Leopard Bushfish’s extraordinary camouflage becomes most effective – drifting among real leaves, the fish is virtually indistinguishable from the debris around it.
Water flow in these habitats is typically minimal to gentle. The labyrinth organ that allows the Leopard Bushfish to breathe atmospheric air is a direct adaptation to these oxygen-poor environments, where stagnant water and heavy organic decomposition can significantly reduce dissolved oxygen levels. In the wild, the species can frequently be observed rising to the surface to gulp air, a behaviour that is equally common in captivity.
Understanding these natural conditions is key to providing appropriate care in the aquarium. The Leopard Bushfish thrives in setups that replicate the dim lighting, heavy cover, soft water chemistry, and gentle flow of its native habitat. Bright, open, sparsely decorated tanks are stressful for this species and will typically result in a shy, reclusive, and poorly coloured fish.
Tank Size and Setup
A minimum tank volume of 200 litres is recommended for a single adult Leopard Bushfish. While this species is not particularly active in terms of open-water swimming, it grows to a substantial size and requires ample space to establish territory and hunt comfortably. For a pair or a small group of two to three individuals, a tank of 300 litres or more is preferable, with additional consideration given to providing sufficient cover so that each fish can claim its own area of the aquarium without constant visual contact with conspecifics.
The aquascape should prioritise cover, complexity, and subdued lighting above all else. Dense planting, driftwood tangles, and leaf litter are essential, not optional. The Leopard Bushfish is fundamentally a creature of cover; without adequate hiding places, it will remain permanently stressed, refuse food, and be highly susceptible to disease. Aim to create a tank where a significant proportion of the floor space and mid-water zone is occupied by structure.
Driftwood is arguably the single most important hardscape element. Large, branching pieces of bogwood, mopani wood, or spider wood create the tangled root-like structures that most closely replicate the fish’s natural environment. Arrange pieces to form caves, overhangs, and tunnels at various heights in the water column. The tannins released by driftwood will also naturally soften and acidify the water while staining it a warm amber tone, closely mimicking the blackwater conditions the species prefers.
A layer of dried Indian almond leaves (Terminalia catappa), oak leaves, or similar botanicals on the substrate is highly beneficial. These leaves release additional tannins, provide surfaces for biofilm growth, and create the leaf-litter habitat in which the Leopard Bushfish is most comfortable. Replace leaves as they decompose to maintain the effect.
Live plants are an excellent addition and further enhance the sense of cover. Hardy, low-light species are most appropriate given the dim conditions preferred by this fish. Java fern (Microsorum pteropus), Anubias species, Java moss (Taxiphyllum barbieri), and various Cryptocoryne species are all well-suited. Floating plants such as Amazon frogbit (Limnobium laevigatum) or water lettuce (Pistia stratiotes) are particularly valuable as they diffuse overhead light and create shaded areas beneath them. However, ensure some open surface area remains accessible so the fish can easily reach the surface to breathe atmospheric air via its labyrinth organ.
Substrate choice is not critical, but a dark-coloured fine sand or smooth gravel complements the natural aesthetic and encourages the fish to display its best colouration. Avoid sharp or coarse substrates that could injure the fish if it rests on the bottom, which it frequently does.
Lighting should be kept low to moderate. If stronger lighting is used for plant growth, the canopy effect of floating plants and the shade provided by driftwood overhangs should be sufficient to create the dim zones the Leopard Bushfish requires. A tight-fitting lid or cover glass is recommended, as labyrinth fish can and do jump, particularly if startled or if water quality deteriorates.
Water Parameters
| Temperature | 23-28 °C |
| pH | 6.0-7.5 |
| General hardness (GH) | 3-15 dGH |
| Carbonate hardness (KH) | 3-10 dKH |
| Ammonia | 0 ppm |
| Nitrite | 0 ppm |
| Nitrate | Below 20 ppm |
The Leopard Bushfish is reasonably adaptable when it comes to water chemistry, but it undeniably shows its best colour, behaviour, and longevity in conditions that approximate its natural habitat – namely soft, slightly acidic to neutral water. A pH between 6.0 and 7.0 is ideal, though the species tolerates values up to 7.5 without apparent distress. General hardness in the lower half of the stated range (3-10 dGH) is preferable.
Temperature stability is more important than hitting an exact number. Aim for a consistent 24-27 °C for general maintenance. The species can tolerate brief fluctuations outside this range but prolonged exposure to temperatures below 22 °C or above 30 °C should be avoided. Higher temperatures within the comfortable range can be used to stimulate breeding behaviour.
Ammonia and nitrite must always be maintained at 0 ppm. While the labyrinth organ provides a buffer against low dissolved oxygen, it offers no protection against the toxic effects of dissolved nitrogenous waste. Nitrate should be kept below 20 ppm through regular water changes; levels consistently above 40 ppm are likely to cause chronic health issues over time.
Weekly water changes of 20-30% are recommended, using dechlorinated water matched to the tank’s temperature and chemistry. The use of tannin-releasing botanicals such as Indian almond leaves, alder cones, or commercially available blackwater extracts can be beneficial in achieving and maintaining the slightly acidic, tannin-rich conditions this species prefers.
Filtration and Equipment
Filtration for a Leopard Bushfish tank should prioritise biological and mechanical efficiency while minimising water flow at the surface and throughout the aquarium. This species is native to near-stagnant backwaters and is uncomfortable in strong currents. An overly powerful filter outlet directed across the tank will stress the fish and may discourage surface breathing.
A canister filter rated for the tank’s volume is the most versatile option, as the outlet can be fitted with a spray bar positioned along the back glass and angled slightly towards the surface to create gentle ripple without excessive turbulence. Alternatively, a large internal filter or a hang-on-back filter with a baffled outlet can work well for tanks at the smaller end of the recommended range. Sponge filters are also suitable and have the added benefit of providing gentle aeration and a surface for biofilm growth, though they may lack sufficient mechanical filtration for a tank housing a messy predatory fish.
The Leopard Bushfish produces a moderate to heavy bioload relative to its size, particularly if fed a diet rich in whole prey items. Generous biological filtration media – ceramic rings, sintered glass, or similar high-surface-area media – is advisable to handle the ammonia produced. Regular maintenance of filter media in old tank water, rather than tap water, will preserve beneficial bacterial colonies.
A reliable, thermostatically controlled heater is essential, as the species requires stable tropical temperatures. For larger tanks, two smaller heaters positioned at opposite ends of the aquarium provide more even heat distribution and a degree of redundancy should one unit fail. A thermometer, preferably a digital one, should be used to monitor temperature independently of the heater’s built-in thermostat.
Lighting, as discussed, should be subdued. Adjustable LED units that allow dimming or the use of a timer to simulate dawn-dusk transitions are ideal. The Leopard Bushfish is most active during low-light periods, and many keepers report seeing significantly more natural behaviour under dim conditions or during the evening hours.
An air gap between the water surface and the tank lid is important for labyrinth fish. The air above the water surface should be warm and humid rather than cold and dry; a tight-fitting lid helps maintain this warm air layer and prevents chilling of the labyrinth organ when the fish surfaces to breathe.
Diet and Feeding
The Leopard Bushfish is a true predator, and its diet in captivity should reflect this. In the wild, the species feeds primarily on small fish, aquatic invertebrates, insect larvae, and crustaceans, using its ambush hunting strategy and protrusible mouth to engulf prey in a rapid, suction-like strike. Replicating this varied, protein-rich diet in the aquarium is key to maintaining health, colour, and natural behaviour.
Live and frozen foods should form the core of the diet. Excellent choices include bloodworm, brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, chopped earthworms, river shrimp, and small whole prawns. Live foods such as earthworms, blackworms, and gut-loaded feeder insects (crickets, small cockroaches) are enthusiastically accepted and provide enrichment by triggering natural hunting behaviour. Many keepers find that live food is essential during the initial acclimation period, as newly acquired specimens may refuse all other food types for days or even weeks.
Frozen foods are a practical and nutritious staple once the fish is settled. Frozen bloodworm, frozen brine shrimp, and frozen krill or mysis shrimp are usually accepted readily. Thaw frozen foods in a small cup of tank water before offering them to avoid temperature shock and to allow the food to sink naturally into the fish’s field of vision.
Convincing a Leopard Bushfish to accept prepared dry foods can be challenging but is achievable with patience. High-quality carnivore pellets or sinking granules can be introduced gradually, initially offered alongside familiar frozen or live foods. Some specimens learn to accept pellets readily, while others remain stubbornly devoted to frozen and live fare throughout their lives. Persistence and patience are key – do not attempt to starve the fish into accepting pellets, as this species can be surprisingly stubborn and may lose condition.
Feed adult Leopard Bushfish once daily or every other day, offering an amount they can consume within a few minutes. Overfeeding is a genuine risk with predatory fish, as they are opportunistic and will gorge themselves if given the chance. Obesity and associated liver problems can result from overly generous or frequent feeding. Juveniles under 10 cm should be fed daily to support growth.
The use of feeder fish such as goldfish or rosy reds is strongly discouraged. Commercially bred feeder fish are often nutritionally poor, may carry diseases and parasites, and can introduce pathogens into the aquarium. If live fish are offered as an occasional treat, they should be home-bred and quarantined beforehand.
The Leopard Bushfish is predominantly a crepuscular and nocturnal feeder. Offering food shortly after lights-out or during the dimming period often yields the best feeding response, particularly with shy or newly introduced specimens. Using a red light or moonlight setting on an LED unit allows the keeper to observe feeding behaviour without disturbing the fish.
Behaviour and Temperament
The Leopard Bushfish is a study in patience and stealth. For much of the day, this fish remains virtually motionless, hovering among driftwood tangles, resting on a leaf, or drifting head-down in the water column in a convincing imitation of a dead leaf. It may position itself at unusual angles, sometimes hanging vertically or leaning against plant stems, all in service of its camouflage strategy. To the casual observer, the fish can appear sluggish or even unwell, but this behaviour is entirely normal and represents the species’ evolved hunting technique.
When prey or food items come within range, the transformation is dramatic. The Leopard Bushfish can strike with remarkable speed, lunging forward and extending its protrusible mouth to engulf the target in a fraction of a second. This ambush feeding behaviour is one of the most fascinating aspects of keeping this species and is endlessly entertaining to watch.
Despite its predatory capabilities, the Leopard Bushfish is generally a shy and retiring species, particularly when kept in a well-furnished tank. It is not aggressive towards fish that are too large to eat, and it rarely engages in territorial disputes with conspecifics beyond minor posturing and the occasional brief chase. However, any fish small enough to fit in the Leopard Bushfish’s mouth will eventually be eaten – this is not a question of temperament but of predatory instinct, and it must be taken seriously when selecting tank mates.
The species is loosely social and can be kept singly or in small groups. Single specimens often become bolder and more visible over time, developing a degree of individual personality and sometimes learning to recognise their keeper. Groups of two or three can coexist peacefully in a suitably large, well-decorated tank, though some chasing and hierarchy establishment should be expected during the initial settling-in period. Larger groups require proportionally more space and cover to prevent stress.
The Leopard Bushfish is primarily active during twilight and nighttime hours, becoming noticeably more mobile and exploratory as the lights dim. Keepers who only observe their tank during bright daytime conditions may rarely see their fish at all; incorporating a dusk period or moonlight setting into the lighting schedule reveals a far more active and engaging animal.
New specimens are often extremely shy and may hide for days or even weeks after introduction, refusing food and remaining entirely out of sight. This is normal behaviour and should not cause undue alarm provided water quality is good and the tank is adequately furnished. Patience is essential; with time and consistent, non-threatening husbandry, the fish will gradually gain confidence.
Tank Mates
Choosing tank mates for the Leopard Bushfish requires careful consideration of size, temperament, and activity level. The golden rule is simple: if a fish can fit in the Leopard Bushfish’s mouth, it will be eaten. This rules out all small tetras, rasboras, danios, guppies, endlers, small corydoras, and shrimp. Suitable companions must be large enough to avoid predation (generally at least two-thirds the body length of the bushfish), peaceful enough not to bully this somewhat timid species, and tolerant of the same warm, soft, dimly lit conditions. Overly boisterous or fin-nipping species should also be avoided, as these will stress the Leopard Bushfish and may damage its fins.
Good tank mates
- Congo Tetra – A fellow Congo basin species that is large enough to avoid predation when adult and shares similar water parameter preferences.
- African Butterfly Fish – A compatible surface-dwelling African species that occupies a different zone of the tank and tolerates the same soft, acidic conditions.
- Synodontis eupterus – A robust, peaceable African catfish large enough to coexist safely and well-suited to the same dim, well-furnished environment.
- Bristlenose Pleco – A hardy, armoured bottom-dweller that is ignored by the bushfish and helps control algae in low-light setups.
- Pearl Gourami – A peaceful, similarly sized labyrinth fish that thrives in planted, soft-water tanks and is too large to be eaten.
- Angelfish – A tall-bodied cichlid that reaches a compatible adult size and does well in the warm, planted setups the bushfish requires, though monitor for occasional territorial spats.
- Kribensis – A small West African cichlid that is generally too deep-bodied and alert to be predated by the bushfish, and adds activity to the lower tank levels.
- Rope Fish – A peaceful, elongate African species that occupies the bottom of the tank and is far too large to be considered prey.
Fish to avoid
- Neon Tetra – Far too small; these will be quickly consumed as live prey, particularly during nighttime hours.
- Guppy – An ideal prey size for the bushfish; guppies will not survive in this combination regardless of available cover.
- Cherry Shrimp – Any dwarf shrimp species will be treated as food and consumed almost immediately.
- Tiger Barb – An aggressive fin-nipper that will harass the slow-moving, long-finned bushfish relentlessly.
- Oscar – Far too large and aggressive for this combination; an Oscar would likely bully or injure the bushfish.
- Endler’s Livebearer – Much too small; these nano fish are easy prey for any predatory species.
- Red Tail Black Shark – A highly territorial and aggressive bottom-dweller that would stress the bushfish with constant chasing.
Breeding
Breeding the Leopard Bushfish in captivity is a genuine challenge and is achieved only infrequently, even by experienced aquarists. The species is a bubblenest builder, placing it in the same reproductive category as many other anabantoids, though its breeding behaviour is less well-documented than that of more commonly bred species such as bettas or gouramis.
The first obstacle is obtaining a confirmed pair, as sexual dimorphism is subtle and unreliable. Most breeders recommend raising a group of juveniles together and allowing natural pair formation to occur. Males may develop slightly rougher scaling on the caudal peduncle and flanks, and females in breeding condition will appear fuller when viewed from above, but these cues are not always clear.
To condition a pair for spawning, gradually increase the water temperature to the upper end of the comfortable range, around 27-28 °C, and feed heavily with high-quality live and frozen foods over a period of several weeks. Soft, acidic water with a pH of 6.0-6.5 and a GH below 8 dGH appears to be most conducive to spawning. Frequent small water changes with slightly cooler, soft water can also help trigger breeding behaviour, simulating the onset of the rainy season.
Spawning typically occurs near the surface, often beneath floating plants or a sheltered area of the tank. The male constructs a bubblenest, though it may be rudimentary and less structured than those produced by bettas. During the spawning embrace, the pair intertwines in a manner characteristic of anabantoid fish, and the female releases eggs that float up into the bubblenest. Clutches can be large, potentially numbering several hundred eggs.
Parental care, if it occurs at all, is typically minimal. The male may guard the nest briefly, but neither parent can be relied upon to protect the eggs or fry. Many breeders choose to carefully remove the eggs or the parents after spawning to prevent predation. Eggs typically hatch within 48 hours at 27-28 °C, and the tiny fry become free-swimming after a further two to three days.
Raising the fry is arguably the most difficult part of the process. They are extremely small at hatching and require infusoria, vinegar eels, or commercially available liquid fry food for the first week or two before graduating to freshly hatched brine shrimp nauplii. Growth can be slow, and the fry are cannibalistic, so regular grading by size and separation may be necessary to prevent losses. Maintaining excellent water quality in the rearing tank is critical, as the fry are highly sensitive to ammonia and nitrite.
Common Diseases
The Leopard Bushfish is a reasonably hardy species when kept in appropriate conditions, but it is not immune to the common diseases and health issues that affect freshwater aquarium fish. Stress, often caused by inadequate cover, aggressive tank mates, or poor water quality, is the single greatest predisposing factor for disease in this species.
White spot disease (Ichthyophthirius multifiliis), commonly known as ich, is one of the most frequently encountered illnesses. It presents as small white cysts on the body and fins and is typically triggered by temperature fluctuations or the introduction of new, unquarantined fish. Treatment involves gradually raising the water temperature to 30 °C over 24-48 hours and adding aquarium salt or a proprietary ich medication. Note that some ich medications containing malachite green or formalin can be harsh on labyrinth fish; always use medications at half dose initially and monitor the fish closely for adverse reactions.
Bacterial infections, including fin rot and body ulcers, can occur when the fish is stressed or when water quality deteriorates. Symptoms include frayed or disintegrating fins, reddened areas on the body, and lethargy. Treatment involves correcting the underlying water quality issue and administering an appropriate antibacterial medication. Maintaining nitrate levels below 20 ppm and performing regular water changes are the best preventive measures.
Fungal infections may appear as white or grey cotton-like growths on the body or fins, often developing on areas already damaged by injury or bacterial infection. Antifungal medications are effective, but the underlying cause of the initial damage should also be addressed.
Internal parasites can be a concern, particularly in wild-caught specimens. Signs include weight loss despite a healthy appetite, white or stringy faeces, and a generally emaciated appearance. Antiparasitic foods or medications containing praziquantel or levamisole are typically used for treatment. Quarantining and prophylactically treating all new arrivals is strongly recommended.
Hole-in-the-head disease (hexamitiasis), while more commonly associated with cichlids, has been occasionally reported in Ctenopoma species. It presents as pitted erosions on the head and lateral line and is often linked to poor diet, vitamin deficiency, or chronically elevated nitrate levels. Improving diet quality, supplementing with vitamins, and maintaining excellent water quality are the primary treatment and prevention strategies.
The most effective disease prevention for the Leopard Bushfish is proactive husbandry: stable, clean water; a varied, nutritious diet; adequate cover and hiding places; and careful quarantining of all new additions to the tank.
FAQs
Will a Leopard Bushfish eat my other fish?
Yes, if they are small enough to fit in its mouth. The Leopard Bushfish is a genuine ambush predator with a surprisingly large, protrusible mouth capable of engulfing prey up to roughly half its own body length. Any fish under about 5-6 cm is at risk when housed with an adult bushfish. Choose tank mates carefully, selecting only species that are too large to be swallowed.
Why does my Leopard Bushfish hide all day?
This is entirely normal behaviour for the species. The Leopard Bushfish is predominantly crepuscular and nocturnal, meaning it is most active during dawn, dusk, and nighttime. During the day, it will typically remain motionless among plants or driftwood, relying on its camouflage. To see more activity, observe the tank during dim lighting periods or install a moonlight setting on your LED fixture. As the fish settles in and gains confidence over weeks and months, it may become bolder during the day as well.
Can I keep more than one Leopard Bushfish together?
Yes, the Leopard Bushfish is loosely social and can be kept singly or in small groups. A pair or trio can coexist in a tank of 300 litres or more, provided there is ample cover and each fish can establish its own territory. Some minor chasing and posturing during initial introductions is normal. In tanks that are too small or too sparsely decorated, conspecific aggression can become problematic.
How long does it take for a Leopard Bushfish to settle into a new tank?
Patience is essential with this species. Newly introduced Leopard Bushfish commonly hide for one to three weeks, and some individuals may refuse food for up to two weeks after being moved to a new environment. Ensure the tank has plenty of cover, keep the lights dim, and offer live or frozen food during the evening hours. Avoid tapping the glass or making sudden movements near the tank. With time, the vast majority of specimens settle in and begin feeding and exploring regularly.
Do Leopard Bushfish need to breathe air at the surface?
Yes, as a labyrinth fish,
