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Rosetail Betta Care Guide – Tank Setup, Feeding and Breeding

ByTankora

Quick summary

The Rosetail Betta is a stunning but genuinely difficult, high-maintenance variant prone to fin rot, fin biting, fin ray collapse, and swimming difficulties, so it is not suitable for beginners. If you want its dramatic ruffled look without the same level of health risk, this guide suggests a standard Halfmoon may be a more forgiving choice.

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In this guide:

Introduction

The Rosetail Betta is one of the most visually striking and controversial variants of the domestic Betta splendens. An extreme extension of the Halfmoon tail type, the Rosetail is characterised by excessive branching of the fin rays, which causes the caudal, anal, and dorsal fins to overlap and ruffle in a manner reminiscent of the layered petals of a rose – hence the name. When the fish flares, the effect is undeniably beautiful: a cascading, almost sculptural display of translucent tissue that few other ornamental fish can rival.

However, beauty comes at a significant cost. The Rosetail Betta is a genuinely demanding variant that is prone to a range of health and physical problems directly caused by its exaggerated finnage. Broken and collapsed fin rays, chronic fin biting (where the fish chews its own heavy fins out of frustration or discomfort), difficulty swimming, lethargy, and reduced lifespan are common, genuine issues – not rare exceptions. Prospective keepers should understand that maintaining a Rosetail in good condition requires more vigilance, more careful environmental design, and more realistic expectations than keeping a standard or Plakat Betta. This is not a beginner’s fish, regardless of how appealing it looks in a breeder’s photograph.

The Rosetail is a variant of Betta splendens, the same species that encompasses Halfmoon, Crowntail, Veiltail, and many other domestic tail types. All of the baseline care fundamentals – water chemistry, cycling, diet, and general husbandry – are shared across these variants. For readers who want a thorough grounding in standard Betta splendens care, we recommend our comprehensive Betta Fish Care Guide as essential reading alongside this page. This guide focuses specifically on what makes the Rosetail different: the unique challenges its finnage creates, the adjustments needed to keep it healthy, and the honest realities of living with this high-maintenance variant.

Quick Stats

Scientific name Betta splendens var. Rosetail
Common names Rosetail Betta, Rose Tail Betta, Feathertail Betta, Ruffled Betta
Family Osphronemidae
Origin Domestic variant (Betta splendens originating from Southeast Asia – Thailand, Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam)
Adult size 5-7 cm (body length, excluding finnage)
Lifespan 2-4 years (often shorter than standard bettas due to health complications)
Difficulty Difficult
Breeding difficulty Advanced
Temperature 24-27 °C
pH range 6.5-7.5
General hardness (GH) 3-12 dGH
Carbonate hardness (KH) 2-8 dKH
Minimum tank size 20 litres
Conservation status Not Evaluated (domestic variant; wild Betta splendens listed as Vulnerable by IUCN)

Appearance

The defining feature of the Rosetail Betta is the extreme degree of fin ray branching. In a standard Halfmoon Betta, the caudal fin spreads to a full 180-degree fan when flared, with neatly divided rays that create a smooth, even edge. The Rosetail takes this further: each ray branches and sub-branches to such an extent that the fin membrane between the rays folds and ruffles, producing an overlapping, layered texture that resembles the petals of a rose in bloom. This branching typically extends beyond the caudal fin to affect the dorsal and anal fins as well, and in extreme specimens – sometimes called Feathertails – the ruffling can be so pronounced that the fin edges appear almost frilly or lace-like.

Body shape is consistent with other domestic Betta splendens: a compact, laterally compressed body with an upturned mouth and prominent eyes. Males are the primary display sex, exhibiting the full Rosetail finnage; females may show some extra branching compared to standard females but rarely develop the dramatic ruffling seen in males. The body itself typically measures 5-7 cm, but the total length including finnage can reach 10-12 cm or more in well-developed males.

Rosetails are available in virtually every colour and pattern found in the domestic Betta palette. Solid colours such as deep red, royal blue, black orchid, and white platinum are common, as are bi-colour, marble, butterfly, and koi patterns. The ruffled fin texture can make some colour patterns appear more complex or mottled than they would on a smooth-finned variant, as light catches the overlapping layers at different angles. Iridescent and metallic finishes – dragon scale, copper, and green – are particularly eye-catching on Rosetails because the layered fins create a shimmering, almost three-dimensional effect.

A critical point about appearance: the Rosetail’s fins frequently do not look as pristine in reality as they do in curated photographs. The sheer weight and complexity of the finnage means that broken rays, minor tears, and uneven edges are extremely common in everyday life. Many Rosetails develop a slightly ragged or drooping appearance over time, particularly as they age and their fins continue to grow. Prospective keepers should be prepared for a fish that may look magnificent when flaring but somewhat dishevelled at rest.

Varieties and Morphs

The Rosetail is itself a sub-variant of the Halfmoon tail type, and it exists on a spectrum of fin ray branching. Understanding where the Rosetail sits relative to other fin types helps clarify what you are purchasing and what challenges to expect.

The Halfmoon is the baseline: a 180-degree caudal spread with clean, evenly branched rays. When the branching becomes excessive enough that the fin edges start to overlap and ruffle, the fish crosses from Halfmoon into Rosetail territory. If the branching becomes even more extreme, producing a heavily layered, almost shredded appearance with extensive ruffling across all fins, the variant may be termed a Feathertail. The distinction between Rosetail and Feathertail is not rigidly defined and is largely a matter of degree, with Feathertails representing the most extreme end of the spectrum and typically carrying the most severe health consequences.

Within the Rosetail category, further classification follows the same colour and pattern terminology used for all domestic bettas. Common Rosetail varieties seen in the trade include:

Red Rosetail and Blue Rosetail are among the most frequently available, as red and blue are dominant colours in Betta splendens genetics. White or Platinum Rosetails showcase the fin ruffling particularly well against the pale, almost translucent fin membrane. Black Orchid Rosetails present a dramatic appearance with dark iridescent colouring highlighting each fold. Marble Rosetails are notable because the marble gene causes colour changes over the fish’s lifetime, meaning the appearance of a Marble Rosetail may shift substantially from month to month. Dragon Scale Rosetails combine the thick, metallic scaling of the dragon phenotype with the ruffled finnage, creating an armoured, elaborate appearance – though this combination is arguably among the most health-compromised, as dragon scaling is independently associated with diamond eye (progressive scale growth over the eyes causing blindness).

It is worth noting that the Over-Halfmoon (OHM) designation – referring to bettas with a caudal spread exceeding 180 degrees – frequently overlaps with the Rosetail designation, as the excessive branching that creates the rose-petal effect also tends to push the fin spread beyond 180 degrees. Not all OHMs are Rosetails, but many Rosetails are also technically OHMs.

Natural Habitat

The Rosetail Betta is an entirely domestic creation and does not exist in the wild. Wild Betta splendens, found across Thailand, Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam, and parts of Malaysia, bear very little resemblance to their domestic descendants. Wild bettas have short, functional fins, muted brown and green colouration, and streamlined bodies adapted for life in shallow, often stagnant or slow-moving habitats such as rice paddies, floodplains, marshes, and roadside ditches.

Understanding the wild ancestry remains relevant to Rosetail care because it informs the environmental conditions the species is physiologically adapted to. Wild Betta splendens inhabit warm, often soft, slightly acidic waters with dense vegetation and limited open swimming space. The waters are frequently shallow – sometimes only a few centimetres deep during the dry season – and often have a low dissolved oxygen content, which is why the species evolved the labyrinth organ that allows it to breathe atmospheric air directly. These habitats are typically heavily shaded by emergent and floating vegetation, with a substrate of decomposing leaf litter and organic sediment.

For the Rosetail specifically, the wild habitat context underscores one critical point: this is a fish whose ancestors evolved to move through dense, shallow, low-current environments. The Rosetail’s exaggerated fins make it even less suited to open water and current than a standard domestic Betta. Any tank design should prioritise the calm, sheltered, low-flow conditions that the species’ biology demands, amplified further by the physical limitations of the Rosetail’s heavy finnage.

Tank Size and Setup

A minimum of 20 litres is recommended for a single Rosetail Betta, though a tank of 30-40 litres is strongly preferred. The extra space is not primarily about swimming distance – Rosetails are not vigorous swimmers – but about providing stable water parameters and sufficient room to create a thoughtfully designed environment that accommodates the variant’s physical limitations.

Tank shape matters more for Rosetails than for most other betta variants. A long, shallow tank is ideal. Rosetails struggle with vertical swimming more than horizontal movement because their heavy fins create significant drag when the fish needs to rise to the surface to breathe. A deep tank forces the fish to expend considerable energy on each trip to the surface, which can lead to exhaustion, stress, and a tendency to rest on the bottom in a listless state. Aim for a water depth of no more than 20-25 cm if possible. Standard cube-shaped or tall tanks should be avoided.

The aquascape should prioritise rest and shelter. Rosetails need frequent resting spots near the surface where they can lounge with minimal effort while still being able to access atmospheric air. Broad-leafed plants such as Anubias, Java fern, and Amazon sword are excellent choices, and floating plants such as Salvinia, Frogbit, or Red Root Floater serve a dual purpose: they dim the lighting (reducing stress) and provide surface-level resting platforms. Commercially available betta hammocks or suction-cup leaf rests positioned near the water line are also very useful for this variant.

All decor must be scrupulously smooth. Any rough, sharp, or abrasive surface in the tank is a serious hazard to the Rosetail’s delicate, complex fins. Plastic plants with hard edges, rough resin ornaments, and jagged rock are all unacceptable. Live plants and smooth driftwood are the safest options. If using artificial decor, run a pair of tights or stockings over every surface – if the fabric snags, the object will tear the fish’s fins. Even filter intakes should be covered with a pre-filter sponge to prevent fin entanglement.

Substrate choice is flexible – fine sand, smooth gravel, or bare-bottom tanks all work. Some keepers prefer bare-bottom setups for Rosetails because it simplifies cleaning and makes it easier to spot dropped food, which is relevant given that Rosetails can be clumsy feeders due to their limited mobility.

Lighting should be moderate to low. Rosetails are not particularly light-sensitive, but subdued lighting reduces stress and encourages the fish to be more active and visible rather than hiding. A basic LED light on a timer providing 6-8 hours of illumination daily is sufficient, especially if you are growing live plants.

A lid or cover is essential. Bettas are capable jumpers, and while a Rosetail’s jumping ability is somewhat limited by its finnage, the risk remains real. A tight-fitting lid also helps maintain the warm, humid air layer above the water surface that is important for the labyrinth organ’s function – breathing cold, dry air can cause respiratory issues in bettas.

Water Parameters

Temperature 24-27 °C
pH 6.5-7.5
General hardness (GH) 3-12 dGH
Carbonate hardness (KH) 2-8 dKH
Ammonia 0 ppm
Nitrite 0 ppm
Nitrate Below 15 ppm

The water parameter ranges for a Rosetail are broadly identical to those for any domestic Betta splendens (see the Betta Fish Care Guide for detailed discussion). However, the Rosetail’s vulnerability to fin damage and infection means that water quality management takes on greater urgency with this variant. Where a robust Plakat Betta might tolerate a brief spike in nitrate or a delayed water change without visible consequences, a Rosetail is far more likely to develop fin rot, bacterial infections, or worsening of existing fin damage under the same conditions.

Maintaining nitrate below 15 ppm rather than the more commonly cited 20 ppm is strongly recommended for Rosetails. Their extensive finnage provides a large surface area for bacterial colonisation, and even mildly elevated waste products can tip the balance towards infection in tissue that is already stressed from the mechanical strain of its own weight. Weekly water changes of 20-30% are a sensible baseline, with more frequent changes if the tank is on the smaller side.

Temperature stability is particularly important. The Rosetail’s already compromised immune system is further weakened by temperature fluctuations, so a reliable, adjustable heater is not optional – it is essential. Position the heater where it can maintain an even temperature throughout the tank, and use a separate thermometer to verify readings rather than relying solely on the heater’s built-in thermostat.

Indian almond leaves (Terminalia catappa) or similar botanical additions are beneficial for Rosetails. The tannins released into the water have mild antibacterial and antifungal properties, help to soften the water slightly, and create the tinted, low-light environment that the fish finds calming. A single leaf per 15-20 litres, replaced as it decomposes, is a good starting point.

Filtration and Equipment

Flow rate is the single most important filtration consideration for a Rosetail Betta. This variant cannot cope with even moderate current. Its heavy, ruffled fins act like a sail, and any significant water movement will push the fish around the tank, exhaust it, and cause chronic stress. A gentle sponge filter powered by a small air pump is the ideal filtration choice: it provides biological filtration without creating strong directional flow, and the sponge surface poses no risk to delicate fins.

If using a hang-on-back (HOB) or internal power filter, the output must be baffled extensively. Commercial baffle attachments, a piece of filter sponge rubber-banded over the outflow, or directing the output against the glass wall to dissipate the current are all viable approaches. The goal is to reduce surface agitation to a gentle ripple at most. If you can see your Rosetail being pushed around, struggling to hold position, or constantly retreating to still corners, the flow is too strong.

A heater is essential. An adjustable heater rated for the tank size (typically 25-50 watts for a 20-40 litre tank) is preferable to a preset model because it allows fine-tuning to keep the temperature within the optimal 24-27 °C range. A heater guard is recommended to prevent the fish from resting against the heater and sustaining burns – Rosetails, being less mobile than other variants, have a tendency to settle in one spot for extended periods, and a warm heater surface can be an attractive resting place.

A thermometer – ideally a digital probe or a reliable glass stick-on type – should be used to independently monitor water temperature. Heater malfunctions are a common cause of fish loss, and early detection of a temperature swing can prevent disaster.

Lighting should be provided by a basic LED unit. Rosetails do not have specific lighting needs beyond what is required for any live plants in the tank. A timer is recommended to provide a consistent photoperiod. Avoid excessively bright lighting, which can stress the fish and promote algae growth.

An air pump, if not already used for a sponge filter, can be helpful for maintaining dissolved oxygen levels – but the airstone output should be very gentle. A fine airstone producing a light stream of small bubbles is preferable to a coarse airstone producing large, disruptive bubbles.

Diet and Feeding

The dietary requirements of a Rosetail Betta are the same as for any Betta splendens: they are carnivorous (more precisely, insectivorous) and require a protein-rich diet. High-quality betta pellets should form the staple, supplemented with frozen or live foods such as bloodworm, daphnia, brine shrimp, and mosquito larvae. Freeze-dried foods are acceptable as occasional supplements but should be soaked before feeding to prevent digestive issues.

Where the Rosetail differs from other variants is in how it feeds, not what it eats. Rosetails are often clumsy, slow feeders. Their heavy finnage makes lunging for food difficult, and they may miss floating pellets or take several attempts to catch live prey. This has several practical implications for the keeper.

First, feeding small amounts multiple times rather than one larger feeding is advantageous. Two to three small meals per day, each consisting of two to four appropriately sized pellets, works better than a single larger feeding. This gives the fish more opportunities to eat at its own pace without food sitting in the water for extended periods and fouling it.

Second, sinking pellets or slow-sinking foods may be easier for some Rosetails to consume than floating pellets, as the fish can approach them at a more comfortable angle. Observe your individual fish’s feeding behaviour and adjust accordingly.

Third, in community settings (if applicable), ensure the Rosetail is actually getting its share of the food. Faster tank mates can easily outcompete a Rosetail at feeding time. Target feeding with tweezers or a pipette, placing food directly in front of the betta, can help ensure adequate nutrition.

Overfeeding is a particular concern because uneaten food degrades water quality rapidly in the small tanks typically used for bettas, and Rosetails are especially vulnerable to the consequences of poor water quality. Remove any uneaten food after two to three minutes.

Fasting one day per week is a common and beneficial practice for bettas, including Rosetails, to help prevent constipation and bloating. On the fasting day, a small amount of daphnia can be offered instead, as it acts as a mild digestive aid.

Behaviour and Temperament

Rosetail Bettas display the same fundamental behavioural traits as all domestic Betta splendens – territorial aggression towards conspecific males, curiosity, individual personality, and the capacity to recognise their keepers. However, the Rosetail’s physical limitations significantly modify how these behaviours manifest in practice.

Rosetails are noticeably less active than short-finned or even standard long-finned betta variants. They spend more time resting, often lying on leaves, the substrate, or any available horizontal surface near the water line. This is not necessarily a sign of illness – it is a normal consequence of carrying an enormous amount of fin tissue relative to body mass. The fish simply tires more quickly than a Plakat or even a standard Halfmoon. Keepers new to the variant sometimes panic at the sight of their Rosetail lying motionless on a leaf, but this is typical resting behaviour. That said, genuine lethargy, clamped fins, loss of colour, or refusal to eat are legitimate warning signs and should not be dismissed.

Flaring behaviour, which is a normal territorial display for bettas, should be approached cautiously with Rosetails. While flaring is healthy in moderation – it provides exercise and stimulation – excessive flaring can strain and damage the already overburdened fin rays. If using a mirror for enrichment, limit sessions to one to two minutes, no more than a few times per week. Permanently placing a mirror or positioning the tank where the fish can see its reflection constantly is particularly harmful for Rosetails, as sustained flaring accelerates fin ray collapse.

Fin biting is a widespread problem in Rosetails. Many Rosetails will, at some point, chew on their own caudal or anal fins, creating ragged, scalloped edges or even removing large chunks of tissue. The exact cause is debated, but the most widely accepted explanation is that the fish finds the drag and weight of its own fins irritating or stressful and attempts to reduce it. Fin biting can also be triggered by stress from poor water quality, boredom, excessive current, or unsuitable tank mates. While fin biting is seen across all long-finned betta types, it is disproportionately common in Rosetails and Feathertails due to the extreme fin mass. There is no guaranteed cure, but maintaining excellent water quality, providing enrichment (varied decor, live food hunts, gentle rearrangement of the tank layout), and minimising stressors can reduce its frequency.

Despite their physical limitations, Rosetails remain intelligent, interactive fish. They often learn to recognise their keeper, follow a finger along the glass, and respond to feeding cues. Providing environmental enrichment – floating objects, live plants to explore, occasional rearrangement of decor – helps maintain mental stimulation and can reduce stress-related behaviours.

Tank Mates

Choosing tank mates for a Rosetail Betta requires even more caution than for a standard Betta splendens. The Rosetail’s reduced mobility makes it less able to escape harassment, its elaborate fins present an irresistible target for fin-nipping species, and competition for food is a genuine concern given the Rosetail’s slow feeding behaviour. In general, a species-only setup is the safest option for a Rosetail. However, if the tank is large enough (30 litres absolute minimum for a community, with 40+ litres preferred) and carefully stocked, certain peaceful companions can work. Every potential tank mate must be slow-moving, non-aggressive, and entirely disinclined to nip fins.

Good tank mates

  • Pygmy Corydoras – Tiny, peaceful bottom-dwellers that occupy a completely different zone of the tank and pose no threat to the Rosetail’s fins.
  • Amano Shrimp – Hardy, industrious algae eaters that are too large for the betta to eat and entirely indifferent to its finnage.
  • Ramshorn Snail – A slow, unobtrusive gastropod that helps with algae and detritus without creating any interaction stress for the betta.
  • Ember Tetra – A very small, calm schooling fish that lacks any fin-nipping tendency and is too quick to be easily caught by the Rosetail.
  • Kuhli Loach – A nocturnal, bottom-dwelling species that is almost never in the Rosetail’s territory and has no interest in fins.
  • Asian Stone Catfish – An extremely sedentary, tiny catfish that sits motionless on the substrate and is functionally invisible to the betta.
  • Malaysian Trumpet Snail – A burrowing snail that spends most of its time in the substrate, aerating it and consuming waste without bothering the fish.
  • Celestial Pearl Danio – A small, peaceful micro-fish that generally keeps to the mid and lower water column and does not nip.

Fish to avoid

  • Tiger Barb – A notorious fin nipper that will relentlessly attack the Rosetail’s elaborate fins, causing severe damage and chronic stress.
  • Serpae Tetra – Known for persistent fin-nipping behaviour, especially towards slow-moving, long-finned species like the Rosetail.
  • Chinese Algae Eater – Becomes increasingly aggressive with age and may latch onto the betta’s body, causing injury and stress.
  • Paradise Fish – A closely related labyrinth fish that is territorial and aggressive, virtually guaranteed to fight with a betta.
  • Dwarf Gourami – Another labyrinth fish that occupies the same territory and is likely to trigger aggression from the betta or vice versa.
  • Buenos Aires Tetra – A large, boisterous tetra with a well-documented tendency to nip fins and bully slower tank mates.
  • Red Tail Shark – A highly territorial bottom-dweller that will chase and harass slower fish relentlessly.
  • Angelfish – Too large, too assertive, and may view the Rosetail’s flowing fins as a target; also requires a much larger tank.

Breeding

Breeding Rosetail Bettas is an advanced undertaking that carries significant ethical considerations. The Rosetail phenotype is associated with genuine welfare concerns, and deliberately producing more extreme specimens – particularly crossing Rosetail to Rosetail – is widely discouraged by responsible breeders. Breeding two Rosetails together frequently produces offspring with even more extreme fin ray branching (Feathertails), which amplifies all of the associated health problems: fin collapse, chronic fin biting, severe swimming impairment, and shortened lifespan.

Responsible breeders who work with Rosetail lines typically outcross to Halfmoon bettas to moderate the degree of branching in subsequent generations, aiming to produce fish that retain the aesthetic appeal of the Rosetail without pushing into the most extreme and health-compromised territory. This requires careful selection over multiple generations and a solid understanding of betta genetics.

The mechanics of breeding are the same as for standard Betta splendens. The male builds a bubble nest at the water surface, the pair engage in a sometimes rough courtship that involves flaring, chasing, and nudging, and the female releases eggs during a spawning embrace beneath the nest. The male then collects the eggs in his mouth and places them into the bubble nest, where he guards and tends them until they hatch (typically 24-48 hours at 26-27 °C). The female should be removed after spawning, as the male may become aggressive towards her.

However, the Rosetail’s physical limitations complicate this process. Males may struggle to construct robust bubble nests due to the current created by their own fin movements. The spawning embrace can be more difficult to achieve because the male’s heavy fins make the wrapping motion clumsy. Egg collection can be slower, with more eggs falling to the bottom and being lost. Some Rosetail males are simply too physically encumbered to breed successfully.

Conditioning breeders with high-quality live and frozen foods for two to three weeks before introducing them is standard practice. The breeding tank should be small (around 15-20 litres), shallow (10-15 cm water depth), gently heated to 26-27 °C, and unfiltered or minimally filtered with only a gentle air-driven sponge. Floating plants or a small piece of polystyrene provide a base for the bubble nest. The female should be introduced in a clear container within the tank so the pair can see each other without contact, and only released once the male has built a nest and the female shows vertical breeding bars and a visible ovipositor.

Fry care follows standard betta protocol: infusoria or commercially available liquid fry food for the first few days, transitioning to newly hatched brine shrimp and then micro-worms as the fry grow. Fry from Rosetail crosses will begin to show fin development differences from around four to six weeks of age, though the full extent of the Rosetail phenotype may not be apparent until the fish is several months old.

Common Diseases

Rosetail Bettas are susceptible to all of the diseases that affect standard Betta splendens, but their extreme finnage creates additional vulnerabilities and alters how certain conditions present and progress.

Fin rot is arguably the single most common health issue in Rosetails. The extensive, overlapping fin tissue creates folds where bacteria can proliferate, particularly if water quality slips even slightly. Early fin rot presents as darkening or whitening of the fin edges, sometimes with a slight ragged appearance – which can be difficult to distinguish from the naturally ruffled edges of the Rosetail’s fins. This is why knowing your individual fish’s baseline appearance is important. Mild fin rot responds well to pristine water quality (increase water change frequency), the addition of Indian almond leaves, and aquarium salt at a dose of one teaspoon per 20 litres. More advanced cases may require treatment with a broad-spectrum antibacterial medication such as those containing methylene blue or kanamycin.

Fin ray collapse and breakage is a structural problem rather than an infectious disease, but it is extremely common in Rosetails. The excessively branched fin rays are inherently fragile, and individual rays will frequently snap or curl under the weight of the surrounding tissue. Collapsed rays create permanent deformities in the fin and cannot be repaired. There is no treatment; the goal is prevention through careful environmental design (no sharp objects, minimal current, appropriate water depth).

Fin biting damage is self-inflicted but creates open wounds that are highly susceptible to secondary bacterial or fungal infection. If your Rosetail is actively biting its fins, address potential stressors (water quality, flow, boredom, visual stimuli from other fish or reflections) and monitor the bite sites closely for signs of infection.

Columnaris (cotton wool disease) can affect Rosetails, presenting as white or greyish patches on the fins or body. It is a bacterial infection that thrives in warm water and can progress rapidly. Treatment typically involves antibacterial medications and lowering the temperature slightly (to 24 °C) to slow the bacterial growth.

Ich (white spot disease) presents as small white cysts on the body and fins

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